Thrash a nice wood stock hunting?

[Ckgworks]

I live and hunt the wet coast of Washington, all of my wood stocks are stripped of the coating called a finish and bedded before being finished with oil. I'm not much of a safe queen guy-keep it well oiled and use it! After a wet hunt, I pull the stock off and dry it before putting away. Most factory wood stocks of areas in the inletting and barrel channel that are not sealed. Once everything is sealed up, a little oil will renew small scuffs, I guess dings just come with the territory for me. I can't imagine swapping stocks just for show.....mine would probably get dinged up in the safe while being kept "safe"

 

[Koda_]

I dont understand not using something they way you want it set up cause it "could" get a scratch and show some charactor. Wood stocks will hold up to the rain and elements just fine, they do not need to be babied or set aside. A little extra care keeping them finished is all thats needed but you shouldnt be putting away your synthetic stocks wet either. After a wet hunt for any rifle take the stock off and let everything dry before putting away. Give the wood stocks an extra day to dry.

 

[Koda_]

Most factory wood stocks of areas in the inletting and barrel channel that are not sealed. Once everything is sealed up, a little oil will renew small scuffs, I guess dings just come with the territory for me. I can't imagine swapping stocks just for show

Same here, and from Oregon side mines been thru many coastal november monsoons in the coast range. Every two years I rub the stock with 0000 steel wool then apply a layer or two of tung oil. Good as new. And yes including the inside (except the bedding of course).

 

[98s1lightning]

I live and hunt the wet coast of Washington, all of my wood stocks are stripped of the coating called a finish and bedded before being finished with oil. I'm not much of a safe queen guy-keep it well oiled and use it! After a wet hunt, I pull the stock off and dry it before putting away. Most factory wood stocks of areas in the inletting and barrel channel that are not sealed. Once everything is sealed up, a little oil will renew small scuffs, I guess dings just come with the territory for me. I can't imagine swapping stocks just for show.....mine would probably get dinged up in the safe while being kept "safe"

What are you using to strip factory finishes with?

All I think of on my high gloss gun is accidentally scraping off a revolver hammer or something like that, it happens so fast, then there's a big scrape mark.

Im kind of undecided to run the nice wood. It fits me properly, and it fits the action/rifle from factory; made to fit. Best I can tell its a good fit for the action.....

Flip side of running plastic/synthetic is temperature and sun exposure can affect it. I've seen old plastic crumble and snap. Would really suck to have your rifles forearm snap, or some stupid s*** like that, when you fire it.

I'm interested in learning about maintaining oiled wood. Only thing I can relate to that is axe handles. Always used linseed oil but that stuff smells I wouldn't want it on me or my gear for hunting.

I don't like show either. Anything in my life that's too showy doesn't get used. I'd rather not have it and get something I don't feel awkward using. Slowly getting rid of "collector" type things the older I get. No point in owning it, if it doesn't get use. Might as well have a PICTURE instead hahahaha.

Reason I have the fancy wood is at the time of purchase I wasn't aware it was available in any other configuration and wanted the 284win caliber.
FYI the Browning A-Bolt come in a standard grade, and a medallion. The standards are matte finish and walnut. The medallions, nicely blued, and gloss wood with rosewood grip cap and forend cap.

 

[98s1lightning]

I think the factory high gloss finish would wear away if I used it enough.

 

[98s1lightning]

Tung oil the go-to?????

 

[Ckgworks]

I have used a few different varnish strippers. I don't really have a favorite or go to. I usually follow directions on can and wipe off bubbled finish and keep applying stripper until all finish is removed. I try not to scrape or sand unless I have to. A soft bush helps in checkering. Once it's all off, I'll remove any traces of stripper with Acetone. Light sanding before applying oil. First few coats I cut the oil with turpentine to help penetration into the wood. Everyone seems to have their own preferred method and oil so know this is only "my" way. I apply many coats, wet sanding every coat until pores are filled, and than more coats until desired sheen is achieved. I reapply a quick coats as needed which is not very often unless it sees hard use. I have used Lin-Speed (a modified linseed oil) and tung oil both with good results, although I think its easier for me to get a even final coat with Lin-speed for some reason. Some people use Aerosol Tung oil for a even top coat but I've never tried it. Oils have been modified and "improved" since the old boiled linseed, most by adding a "dryer" this makes the oil more or less set up unlike the oils of old. I still use boiled linseed on axe handles, but I don't think I'd tackle a stock with it.
I'm sure others will have different/better options for you, as I have several books on the matter that I have picked and chosen from.

 

[3chester]

Permalyn, Laurel Mountain Forge makes a stock finish and Brownells sells it, tough to beat. Beartooth Products StockGaurd for $12.99 at Midway, makes Neoprene stock cover can hold up to a bit of Battle Damage on an Elk hunt. They are sold with or without cartridge loops and actually can make for a better cheek weld when shooting. Just put em on and off just like a set of Filson Double Tin Bibs and protects whats underneath, pretty much the same.

 

[txaggie1]

I have many high gloss finish sexy wood mark v's and the ones that I shoot and are zeroed in yes i hunt with. In all my time of collecting, some of these things i have seen never left the gun safe or looked like they were drug behind a mule in the mountains and all points in between.

I give the same level of concern about my fiber stocked rifles and they expensive optics on them. Do things happen - yes, but if i bought it to hunt with and look good in the picture she's going hunting. Now there are some hunts i'm not taking them on, but overall yes I hunt with the ones I want to because they look good in the picture afterwards! LOL

Some of these things i've seen I don't know how they ever hit game if the rifle was in this bad of shape can you imagine the scope!

Take care of them, but use them if your not going to take care of your rifle buy the cheapest one you can find and get another one when it's done. Buy an expensive rifle take care of it and it will appreciate most likely;

 

[Elroaddog]

My stock is the Browning Medallion which I'd call a High Gloss. Not sure how to touch up high gloss.... Or if the years of use would take the gloss away. I'm definitely not going to strip it and oil it to make it "not gloss"

View attachment 547944

Use furniture wax and fine steelwool.

 

[Greyfox]

My first 3+ decades of hunting, I used walnut stocks exclusively. While I switched about 20 years ago to synthetics when I extended my hunting range beyond 500 yards, I would still very much prefer a a wood stock by a wide margin simply for the beauty and feel…which,IMO, improves with use and age. As much as I tried to set up my preferred style(sporter) walnut stocks on my LRH rifles I could not maintain the year to year consistency/precision that ai could achieve with a well bedded synthetic stock. I have tried glass, pillars, etc. on my wood stocks…but to no avail. I have been able to go multiple seasons without adjusting zero while maintaining sub .5 MOA accuracy and precision using the identical loads with a well bedded synthetic stock. For that reason my go-to LR hunters have synthetics…..But, they are sporter style….a small concession.
Fortunately, shotguns are a different story. I have never owned one with a synthetic stock, and likely never will…Just me…Must be the nature of an old fartt.

 

[Philward]

I live and hunt the wet coast of Washington, all of my wood stocks are stripped of the coating called a finish and bedded before being finished with oil. I'm not much of a safe queen guy-keep it well oiled and use it! After a wet hunt, I pull the stock off and dry it before putting away. Most factory wood stocks of areas in the inletting and barrel channel that are not sealed. Once everything is sealed up, a little oil will renew small scuffs, I guess dings just come with the territory for me. I can't imagine swapping stocks just for show.....mine would probably get dinged up in the safe while being kept "safe"

I'm in the same area. All rifles I own except one are wood stocked. I've refinished a couple different ones and use Spar varnish, seal the wood and it shouldn't be a problem. Only have one rifle with somewhat nice wood, M70 SG, polished bluing and oiled wood stock. I still take it out in all weather regardless. It's just a rifle after all.

 

[Rosebud]

Yeah, I do. Killed deer with both of them. Book case was a bit dark. Better pics on the kitchen counter.

 

[Rosebud]

Would you date the sexiest girl in college and take her back to your apartment to only set her on the couch and stare at her? Well, riddle me that Batman!