I'll have too keep that in mind , my dad was a stock and gun maker , I have a lot more walnut than plastic. My first custom was a hand made stock masterly done by my dad before he set up a duplicator too speed things up.If you want a "do it yourself" challenge , why not make a stock by hand from a blank? There's plenty opportunity to "learn something new" with that endeavor. Many, many chamber, few can make a stock by hand from a hardwood blank. A much lower cost in tools, to begin with. I can not begin to put into words the immense satisfaction I got after making my first rifle stock from a nicely figured Black Walnut blank. Even a nicely finished pre-inletted stock, that's properly fit, shaped and finished can be immensely satisfying . Many here will say synthetic are better. I guess that's why those who make the trip to Africa carry wood as much or more than they carry synthetics.
I was hoping someone would suggest thisNothing is hard if you know how to do it.
My two cents... if you're going to spend the money on a good lathe and all of the tooling that goes along with it, spend a little extra and go to Gordy's week-long class.
As a machinist turned gunsmith, I would this..chambering a barrel is not hard to learn. What is more important is understanding the relationship of all the steps as they relate to headspace. You need to understand how to fix problems caused by YOU and sometimes the machine. Cut chamber too deep (happens sometimes), what needs to be done to correct it and not scrap the job? Cut the barrel tennon too short (this shouldn't be a common oops) can you just move the shoulder or will you have to chase threads? The size and type of lathe/headstock length and through hole bore size will determine if you need to chamber with a steady rest or if you can chamber through the headstock.I have a little bit of experience of running a lathe, but not much. However, I think I could learn. If I know the basics of running a lathe, is it hard to thread/chamber, install muzzle breaks etc on a lathe? I'm leaning towards buying a grizzly lathe:
13" x 40" Gunsmithing Metal Lathe w/ DRO - Grizzly Industrial
<h1>G0776 13" x 40" Gunsmithing Lathe with DRO</h1> <h2>A precise lathe with a spider mount and DRO.</h2> <p>The G0776 13" x 40" Gunsmithing Lathe with DRO is called a "gunsmithing" lathe because it has features typically not found on standard lathes, such as a "spider" mount system and a large...www.grizzly.com
Gunsmith work is a labor of love,there's a lot of old gunsmiths that have passed that will not be matched in there trade. My dad was one of them.As a machinist turned gunsmith, I would this..chambering a barrel is not hard to learn. What is more important is understanding the relationship of all the steps as they relate to headspace. You need to understand how to fix problems caused by YOU and sometimes the machine. Cut chamber too deep (happens sometimes), what needs to be done to correct it and not scrap the job? Cut the barrel tennon too short (this shouldn't be a common oops) can you just move the shoulder or will you have to chase threads? The size and type of lathe/headstock length and through hole bore size will determine if you need to chamber with a steady rest or if you can chamber through the headstock.
Practice, practice, practice. Setup, tear it down and do it again until you can get zero runout between chamber and muzzle consistently.
As for machines. Mine is a 1959 Rockwell 14" tool room lathe that has had 4 people operating since it was new. It's in pristine condition and I added digital to it. Its a solid machine. You don't need a Mathews Precision, but you do need a quality machine. Nothing that has been abused by the knuckle draggers that seem to inhabit a lot of shops. Stay away from the Chinese junk, nothing is easily fixed and they will eventually break. I say this because the many I have used just don't hold tolerance after a few years of use.
There is a TREMENDOUS amount of knowledge needed ! To Properly do what you want to do and do it RIGHT !I have a little bit of experience of running a lathe, but not much. However, I think I could learn. If I know the basics of running a lathe, is it hard to thread/chamber, install muzzle breaks etc on a lathe? I'm leaning towards buying a grizzly lathe:
13" x 40" Gunsmithing Metal Lathe w/ DRO - Grizzly Industrial
<h1>G0776 13" x 40" Gunsmithing Lathe with DRO</h1> <h2>A precise lathe with a spider mount and DRO.</h2> <p>The G0776 13" x 40" Gunsmithing Lathe with DRO is called a "gunsmithing" lathe because it has features typically not found on standard lathes, such as a "spider" mount system and a large...www.grizzly.com
I have a little bit of experience of running a lathe, but not much. However, I think I could learn. If I know the basics of running a lathe, is it hard to thread/chamber, install muzzle breaks etc on a lathe? I'm leaning towards buying a grizzly lathe:
13" x 40" Gunsmithing Metal Lathe w/ DRO - Grizzly Industrial
<h1>G0776 13" x 40" Gunsmithing Lathe with DRO</h1> <h2>A precise lathe with a spider mount and DRO.</h2> <p>The G0776 13" x 40" Gunsmithing Lathe with DRO is called a "gunsmithing" lathe because it has features typically not found on standard lathes, such as a "spider" mount system and a large...www.grizzly.com
Send me an email, I will send you a 90 page of chambering discussion by some of the benchrest smiths.
[email protected]
Thanks for the reinforcement!!I don't know how hard it is, but I'm sure you can learn it. I'd just get some bar stock to practice threading. $6K is for the lathe, but you'll have to invest as well in machinists tools and consumeables as well. I have a good buddy that's a T&D maker with 30+ years experience I've picked his brain a few times about this subject. I concluded I was better off buying pre-fit barrels and using a barrel nut on the actions that I could.
I'm not trying to talk you out of it, but it just isnt for me. Besides buying the lathe and tools, I'd need to wire my shop, as well as probably frame in a dedicated space for it. I have a 40X60 building but it's just one big un-insulated, un-heated open bay.