What's equally frustrating is when you squeeze off a shot and immediately KNOW it was bad and don't want to look. But once you quit your wincing you look through your glass and see it dead center, the confusion sets in. It's always mind boggling to me, but I sure as heck count it.
I had a rifle rebarrelled and this is what the 180eldm kept doing to me, finally tried 180hybrids and 197smk no more issues and consistent poiI had a 243 I rebarreled for a guy that would put 3 in a 1/4 inch group and 2 in a 1/4 inch group about 1 inch apart. Looked over everything and couldn't get it sorted out. It would throw them into the 2 spots at random too. Finally figured it out. It was his base. The curve in the base was bigger than the action and the screw heads were the only thing keeping it stable. Bedded the base and it was putting them all in a ragged hole. Only takes a small issue to cause problems. Sometimes they are hard to isolate.
Shep
I feel the same as you GuroChris - if a person shoots a 'group', shouldn't ALL the shots count unless you (the shooter) knowingly choked and did something obvious to mess up a particular shot (a "called" flyer, as it were?) If people just discount a shot that didn't go where they liked, then yeah, they can get 'great groups' quite often. But they aren't "real" groups, are they?
Read a story recently about a custom gun maker trying to figure out where flyers were coming from since everything was built with ultimate precision in mind. Took many hours and high speed cameras to realize it was from the TRIGGER, of all things. Apparently the firing pin was dragging ever so slightly on part of the trigger assembly, affecting the consistency of the lock time and impact force. Amazing. I never would have thought of the trigger itself being the issue.
Another fellow on here posted that his 'flyers' ended up being from a slight bent firing pin. Again, threw off the timing and impact of the primer just enough to cause those random, one-off weird shots.
So, I'm with you. Flyers that get 'discounted' because they messed up what would otherwise be a nice group are important. They are telling us SOMETHING if we would just take the time to figure it out. Or we can keep fooling ourselves into thinking our gun, loads, and scope are just amazing...when they really aren't.
Although I agree with that logic, fundamentals will negate that. I come from a bench rest discipline. In a hunter, the effect that travel has on poi shift is negligible. getting your brain in line with the mechanics of the trigger is key. It takes me a few dry fires to reacquaint myself with a rifle I haven't shot in a bit.Funny you mention the trigger. While building my latest rifle, I was searching for the "perfect" trigger. After much research I ended up with the clavinelite. Not perfect but it does have adjustable overtravel. I think that has an effect. A trigger with zero overtravel has an effect on accuracy. Just my opinion but I think while pressing the trigger, the seat releases and your finger immediately slams into the back wall before the bullet has left the muzzle. Just MY opinion.
Did you fix by adding a crimp or removing a crimp?Completely agree with your thought process on a "called" shot not being the same as an unknown "flier". Also 100% agree fliers shouldn't be ignored if it's consistently showing up in a group. Lots of things that could cause a random flier though. I went way down the rabbit whole on this trying to figure out why a particular rifle of mine would consistently put 2 random shots in the same hole with a 3rd shot always opening the group to ~MOA. For context, pencil thin barrel and a hunting rifle that will never see more than a 3 shot string so, I did not do 5 shot groups. This particular rifle would randomly throw the shot outside the group though, so it wasn't always a particular shot in the sequence. I was able to rule out a hot barrel, wasn't a cleaning/fouling issue, all brass was annealed, prepped, and trimmed the same, powder measurements were within a single grain or two, solid cheek weld, parallax set, I was fairly certain it wasn't me pulling shots so I was pretty stumped. After ripping my hair out and a lot of trial and error, it turned out to be neck tension. Once that was addressed, my fliers went away more or less. Another big variable I have yet to get sorted is how to permanently fix the nut behind the rifle.
Thats correct. I set up triggers to have a lot of over travel if I can. In fact the newer BR triggers do not have adjustments for overtravel, they intentionally have a lot of over travel built inFunny you mention the trigger. While building my latest rifle, I was searching for the "perfect" trigger. After much research I ended up with the clavinelite. Not perfect but it does have adjustable overtravel. I think that has an effect. A trigger with zero overtravel has an effect on accuracy. Just my opinion but I think while pressing the trigger, the seat releases and your finger immediately slams into the back wall before the bullet has left the muzzle. Just MY opinion.
Beautiful! We refer to "Murphy's Law": whatever can go wrong, will, at the worst possible moment.I very much agree with the others. The "flyers" are the most important shots and deserve much more analysis than what they usually get. When shooting a living animal, the most important question is "am I really sure I can hit it?" You cannot exclude the flyers when shooting a living creature, so you really shouldn't exclude them at the range. If you can shoot a 0,5 MOA group except that sometimes there's one an inch off, you are not able to shoot 0,5 MOA. And the difference between how accurate shooters are on the internet and how accurate shooters are at the range is sometimes quite big; the consistent sub-moa shooters are a small minority. Me, my rifle and my hand loads are not 100% sub MOA.
When shooting an animal, you cannot shoot several times and choose which ones count, and I think you should "prepare for the worst" and only shoot when you know you can hit with less than perfect shot. If fliers happen on the range, they certainly happen when hunting, and one should only shoot when also the fliers are capable of taking the animal down respectfully and without risk of losing a wounded animal.
Funny you mention the trigger. While building my latest rifle, I was searching for the "perfect" trigger. After much research I ended up with the clavinelite. Not perfect but it does have adjustable overtravel. I think that has an effect. A trigger with zero overtravel has an effect on accuracy. Just my opinion but I think while pressing the trigger, the seat releases and your finger immediately slams into the back wall before the bullet has left the muzzle. Just MY opinion.