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TAC 15i limbs
- Thread starter Hunter38
- Start date
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WildWillie
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 2, 2011
- Messages
- 57
Dropped my Tac off at the local dealer and they mentioned that PSE will probably want the whole front end sent back for evaluation. (See if the riser is in spec, etc) instead of just sending out new limbs. Either way I've asked the dealer to have everything sent 2-3 day UPS as I'm in MD and normal shipping is 5-6 days. My local dealer has only sold 10 Tac's so they have not experienced any of the problems I've been having.
I'll post again when I get things back and let you know what they said (If anything)
WildWillie
I'll post again when I get things back and let you know what they said (If anything)
WildWillie
My dealer has sold three or four Tac 15i's. No one else is having any problems. Don't know if they are shooting them much. I still have it at home and, according to him, he doesnt need it till the new front end comes in. They don't repace just the limbs.
I'm going there this afternoon to pick up a "loaner" Excaliber to use till my xbow is fixed. Can't complain about the dealer support.
Mike
I'm going there this afternoon to pick up a "loaner" Excaliber to use till my xbow is fixed. Can't complain about the dealer support.
Mike
Well you can add another TAC 15 owner with limb issues to the list. I have owned the TAC for less than a year and it needs the limbs replaced for the second time in a month. Very dissapointed. Seems like every time I get it paper tuned and shooting great something fails. Have put three sets of cables and strings on the bow because of serving seperation and breakage. I had two of the limbs brake (splintered) just before the youth season. Got those replaced and shooting it in the back yard this weekend and heard something crackling. Looked closely and another limb is splintered now in the middle of archery season. I am spending way to much time tuning and repairing this crossbow. Was in love with it when I bought it and spared no expense got well over 3k into this thing with arrows, trigger, hha, rings, stock and accessories. Shoots amazing when tuned and working - just wish that was more often than not. The amount of time and frustration regardless of cost is to steep a price to pay for the performance. Buyer beware.
I'm feeling like "tacman". I've owned it for less than two months. It was DOA when received at the dealer for bad cranking mechanism. A week later that was fixed.
Spent the better part of the next week trying to zero at 20 yards and never got there. During this process my upper right limb was delaminating. Dealer lent me an Excalibur while waiting.
Took ten days or so for new limbs.
Convinced my dealer/PSE that I might have a bad sight and the sight is en route to PSE for a replacement. Dealer has lent me a Parker sight while waiting.
Did a quick paper tune at the dealership. This sight does give me enough elevation and windage adjustment to zero at 20 yards but shots are inconsistent. Thought it might be a poor paper tune.
Went to the range today to double check the paper tune with a naked arrow. Chased that around till I got a perfect bullet hole. However, without changing anything, the next two shots, with the same arrow and same orientation, I get a one inch tear. The next shot a perfect bullet hole and the next, a one inch tear. Left in frustration and posted a new thread for help.
On a positive note, I also shot three arrows through the chrono, Had reading of 405, 405 and 403.
Bottom line, I have a very fast xbow capable of missing a target at 400+fps. Sure would like one that worked as advertised.
The Excalibur was much slower, less range and, noisier but solid and dependable. I shot it more in during the loan period than I've been able to shoot the Tac 15i.
Mike
Spent the better part of the next week trying to zero at 20 yards and never got there. During this process my upper right limb was delaminating. Dealer lent me an Excalibur while waiting.
Took ten days or so for new limbs.
Convinced my dealer/PSE that I might have a bad sight and the sight is en route to PSE for a replacement. Dealer has lent me a Parker sight while waiting.
Did a quick paper tune at the dealership. This sight does give me enough elevation and windage adjustment to zero at 20 yards but shots are inconsistent. Thought it might be a poor paper tune.
Went to the range today to double check the paper tune with a naked arrow. Chased that around till I got a perfect bullet hole. However, without changing anything, the next two shots, with the same arrow and same orientation, I get a one inch tear. The next shot a perfect bullet hole and the next, a one inch tear. Left in frustration and posted a new thread for help.
On a positive note, I also shot three arrows through the chrono, Had reading of 405, 405 and 403.
Bottom line, I have a very fast xbow capable of missing a target at 400+fps. Sure would like one that worked as advertised.
The Excalibur was much slower, less range and, noisier but solid and dependable. I shot it more in during the loan period than I've been able to shoot the Tac 15i.
Mike
Are you using a bench or some sort of rest to keep the TAC-15 stable? Any chance you are some how changing how you hold the TAC-15 (stock & shoulder, frame & hand).
bowslngr
Member
I have always paper tuned from a standing position, just as I do with a compound bow.
jon.henry755
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2010
- Messages
- 391
All,
Paper Tuning is a very simple process. The distance from you to the paper needs to be approximately 12 to 15 yards. This is to allow the arrow a chance to launch and begin to stabilize its flight coming off the bow or crossbow.
A target is only used as a backstop to prevent loss of an arrow. Any good backstop would do, but typically having the backstop within a yard or two behind your paper tuner makes the most sense.
It makes no difference weather you are standing, sitting, bench rested or hanging upside down as long as you can hold steady enough to know where you are aiming each time you pull the trigger. Personally, most people use either a bench rested position or a stand like a bi-pod to do this exercise.
During the paper tuning exercise always use only one arrow for every shot. This eliminates the possibility of spine problems or spine to nock alignment problems. If you only have one arrow with you, you can't grab the wrong one by mistake and shoot it. Some of the problems I'm reading in this thread sound like the typical old problem of nock to arrow spine mis-alignment problems. I'll be happy to address how to fix this, but I believe Okiebowie is ever bit as qualified as I am on this subject, so he can explain how to fix it, if in fact this is what's causing the bullet hole problem when paper tuning.
Re-test at 15 yards only using one arrow and please make sure you paper is fresh and tight. Once your paper has 4 or 5 holes in it, you must change the paper because you will have to much slack in the paper for it to provide an accurate reading. Once you've obtained a perfect bullet hole stop the paper tuning exercise because your no longer doing anything of any value.
paper Tuning is a cheap and dirty way of achieving a center alignment between your nocking point and your arrow rest. It doesn't tell you that they are both properly centered down the middle of your crossbows lower unit and it doesn't tell you that your scope is properly centered to this shaft alignment. It only tells you that the nocking point and center of your arrow rest are in line with one another. Once finished there is much more to do if you want to align the other items I just mentioned.
Regards,
Jon
Paper Tuning is a very simple process. The distance from you to the paper needs to be approximately 12 to 15 yards. This is to allow the arrow a chance to launch and begin to stabilize its flight coming off the bow or crossbow.
A target is only used as a backstop to prevent loss of an arrow. Any good backstop would do, but typically having the backstop within a yard or two behind your paper tuner makes the most sense.
It makes no difference weather you are standing, sitting, bench rested or hanging upside down as long as you can hold steady enough to know where you are aiming each time you pull the trigger. Personally, most people use either a bench rested position or a stand like a bi-pod to do this exercise.
During the paper tuning exercise always use only one arrow for every shot. This eliminates the possibility of spine problems or spine to nock alignment problems. If you only have one arrow with you, you can't grab the wrong one by mistake and shoot it. Some of the problems I'm reading in this thread sound like the typical old problem of nock to arrow spine mis-alignment problems. I'll be happy to address how to fix this, but I believe Okiebowie is ever bit as qualified as I am on this subject, so he can explain how to fix it, if in fact this is what's causing the bullet hole problem when paper tuning.
Re-test at 15 yards only using one arrow and please make sure you paper is fresh and tight. Once your paper has 4 or 5 holes in it, you must change the paper because you will have to much slack in the paper for it to provide an accurate reading. Once you've obtained a perfect bullet hole stop the paper tuning exercise because your no longer doing anything of any value.
paper Tuning is a cheap and dirty way of achieving a center alignment between your nocking point and your arrow rest. It doesn't tell you that they are both properly centered down the middle of your crossbows lower unit and it doesn't tell you that your scope is properly centered to this shaft alignment. It only tells you that the nocking point and center of your arrow rest are in line with one another. Once finished there is much more to do if you want to align the other items I just mentioned.
Regards,
Jon
jon.henry755
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 16, 2010
- Messages
- 391
Fletched or un-fletched makes no difference and 10 or 12 yards should be usable.
The main key at this point is to insure you are always using the same arrow for each shot.
My suggested steps are as follows:
1. Follow PSE's paper tuning instructions until you have achieved a perfect bullet hole at about 15 yards.
2. At 20 yards, using a single fletched arrow sight in your crossbow using only the scopes elevation setting. If you find that you do not have enough elevation adjustment to bring your arrow down to the level of your targets bulls-eye this indicates that you need to shim your scopes rings. There are threads posted on exactly how to go about doing this. Please read and choose one of the methods that fit your needs or budget.
3. Initial windage adjustments can be a combination of scope adjustments and scope ring shims. It may also require additional movement of your arrow rest and nocking point. Remember when I said that all the paper tuning process does is to align your nocking point with the center of your arrow rest? Well, that's because they can both be to the left or right of the center of your crossbows lower unit rail. To avoid this problem I like to center my windage adjustment on my scope by counting the total number of clicks available and then setting my scope to it's center windage position as a starting point.
Then I visually look from the rear of my crossbow down the centerline of a loaded arrow, while the safety is engaged. I attempt to see if my arrow and rest appear to be in the exact center of my lower units rail. If not, I move both the arrow rest and nocking point equal amounts in the direction necessary to get them centered.
Once complete, you will need to shoot the crossbow at 20 yards to see where you are shooting. If using an HHA Optimizer insure your Speed Dial is set to zero. It's only windage that you care about. any adjustments are only made by moving your arrow rest. Once you are hitting center of the bullseye you are ready to move to 40 or 50 yards. If using an HHA Optimizer Speed Dial adjust your elevation and shoot a shot at 50 yards. Your Speed Dial Setting should be approximately 13.5 on the original tape or 8.5 at 40 yards.
At this distance once again you are concerned with your windage setting, so you can adjust elevation as needed to get the correct height, but you are here to set your windage, so if your arrow is hitting to the right or left of center you will now need to move your anchor point only to compensate for the windage change. This process needs to continue until you are shooting in the same spot windage wise regardless weather you are at 20 yards or 50 yards.
Once you have this correctly adjusted then move to 60 or 70 yards and do the same thing to insure your windage remains consistent.
By doing this exercise you are insuring that your arrow rest and string nocking point are both in line with one another and they are aligned with the center of your crossbows lower unit rail. You have then also aligned your scope to the center of your crossbows nocking point, arrow and arrow rest, so you know that it's always shooting exactly where you are seeing things through the scope.
Once you have your nocking point and arrow rest aligned correctly you can make minor windage adjustments with your scopes windage adjustment because if your scope is off its dead center by several clicks in either direction it's not significant enough to matter. You can always get these adjustments back to center on your scope by simply moving your arrow rest and nocking point a mi nut amount which will force you to adjust your scopes windage in the opposite direction to compensate for the change. This will get those scope windage adjustments back to center, but as I stated it's not necessary.
Any time you are trying to shoot a fixed blade broadhead your windage adjustments are much more critical, so if you do not have a perfect alignment between your arrow rest, nocking point and scope your windage will appear to be way off from where your field-points were hitting, so these adjustments would need to be performed in order to get them to fly well for you.
I hope this is somewhat helpful for you.
Regards,
Xbow755
The main key at this point is to insure you are always using the same arrow for each shot.
My suggested steps are as follows:
1. Follow PSE's paper tuning instructions until you have achieved a perfect bullet hole at about 15 yards.
2. At 20 yards, using a single fletched arrow sight in your crossbow using only the scopes elevation setting. If you find that you do not have enough elevation adjustment to bring your arrow down to the level of your targets bulls-eye this indicates that you need to shim your scopes rings. There are threads posted on exactly how to go about doing this. Please read and choose one of the methods that fit your needs or budget.
3. Initial windage adjustments can be a combination of scope adjustments and scope ring shims. It may also require additional movement of your arrow rest and nocking point. Remember when I said that all the paper tuning process does is to align your nocking point with the center of your arrow rest? Well, that's because they can both be to the left or right of the center of your crossbows lower unit rail. To avoid this problem I like to center my windage adjustment on my scope by counting the total number of clicks available and then setting my scope to it's center windage position as a starting point.
Then I visually look from the rear of my crossbow down the centerline of a loaded arrow, while the safety is engaged. I attempt to see if my arrow and rest appear to be in the exact center of my lower units rail. If not, I move both the arrow rest and nocking point equal amounts in the direction necessary to get them centered.
Once complete, you will need to shoot the crossbow at 20 yards to see where you are shooting. If using an HHA Optimizer insure your Speed Dial is set to zero. It's only windage that you care about. any adjustments are only made by moving your arrow rest. Once you are hitting center of the bullseye you are ready to move to 40 or 50 yards. If using an HHA Optimizer Speed Dial adjust your elevation and shoot a shot at 50 yards. Your Speed Dial Setting should be approximately 13.5 on the original tape or 8.5 at 40 yards.
At this distance once again you are concerned with your windage setting, so you can adjust elevation as needed to get the correct height, but you are here to set your windage, so if your arrow is hitting to the right or left of center you will now need to move your anchor point only to compensate for the windage change. This process needs to continue until you are shooting in the same spot windage wise regardless weather you are at 20 yards or 50 yards.
Once you have this correctly adjusted then move to 60 or 70 yards and do the same thing to insure your windage remains consistent.
By doing this exercise you are insuring that your arrow rest and string nocking point are both in line with one another and they are aligned with the center of your crossbows lower unit rail. You have then also aligned your scope to the center of your crossbows nocking point, arrow and arrow rest, so you know that it's always shooting exactly where you are seeing things through the scope.
Once you have your nocking point and arrow rest aligned correctly you can make minor windage adjustments with your scopes windage adjustment because if your scope is off its dead center by several clicks in either direction it's not significant enough to matter. You can always get these adjustments back to center on your scope by simply moving your arrow rest and nocking point a mi nut amount which will force you to adjust your scopes windage in the opposite direction to compensate for the change. This will get those scope windage adjustments back to center, but as I stated it's not necessary.
Any time you are trying to shoot a fixed blade broadhead your windage adjustments are much more critical, so if you do not have a perfect alignment between your arrow rest, nocking point and scope your windage will appear to be way off from where your field-points were hitting, so these adjustments would need to be performed in order to get them to fly well for you.
I hope this is somewhat helpful for you.
Regards,
Xbow755
- Joined
- May 2, 2001
- Messages
- 7,528
Jon
Wonderful post, thanks so much!
Wonderful post, thanks so much!
Add me to the delamination limb list....I was shooting mine today, cocked it, and as I got ready to shoot heard a loud "pop" and felt like sand hit me in the face. After decocking I noticed the right limb was shattered. I've got about 50 shots through it.
It fails right at the start of the rut...argh!!!
Tim
It fails right at the start of the rut...argh!!!
Tim
