Switched stocks and now i have vertical stringing

yep, have an older savage 110 that i recently put a shilen 7mag barrel on.
Prior to the new stock, i had the factory wood stock that i floated the barrel on. Rifle shot great with 162 eld-x's ( bughole at 100) . I recently acquired a choate long range varmint stock and took it to the range. I experienced quite large vertical stringing issues when fired off of my usual rest. The original stock was not bedded, the new stock is not bedded either , other than the aluminum block it comes with. Do you think it's driver error? Maybe the pistol grip is changing something? I read somewhere the stock may need weight in the back. I might try that next. As always thanx in advance for any and all input, criticism.
yep, have an older savage 110 that i recently put a shilen 7mag barrel on.
Prior to the new stock, i had the factory wood stock that i floated the barrel on. Rifle shot great with 162 eld-x's ( bughole at 100) . I recently acquired a choate long range varmint stock and took it to the range. I experienced quite large vertical stringing issues when fired off of my usual rest. The original stock was not bedded, the new stock is not bedded either , other than the aluminum block it comes with. Do you think it's driver error? Maybe the pistol grip is changing something? I read somewhere the stock may need weight in the back. I might try that next. As always thanx in advance for any and all input, criticism.
 
You simply have a bedding problem. Vertical is either load or bedding. I built and shot winning competition bench guns for 50 years for a living for a major barrel manufacturer.
First off you have been sold the idea of the bedding vee being perfect. They are not. If they were every bench gun would be using one...they are not! Second you have no idea if your action is perfectly round, full length even if the block happened to be. It's much like the lapping of scope rings falsity. Then screw holes have to be enlarged so the screws have no side contact, the recoil lug cannot bottom out, then the torque must be correct. Take some artist white oil paint and coat the bottom section of your action and lug, put it in the vee block and tighten to required specs. Remove and see what you have for contact. Never trust advertising, see for yourself. Correct the problem and re shoot. Never change two things at once in a test!
 
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My experience with changing from wood to composite stock on Savage rifles has always led me down the torque spec check at the range. I agree with the above posts that once you have checked barrel channel clearance, next I go to torquing action. I currently have a 12FV in 6.5 CM that I took the cheap plastic stock off and installed a Choate Tactical stock. Torque specs for savage was 65 in lbs lug and 45 in lbs tang. Rifle had vertical string! No chance for barrel channel touching on the stock, I did not touch the the lug torque, but worked with torque on the tang. My rifle zeroed right in by reducing the rear touché down to 35 in lbs at the tang.

One function that I always do when mounting a scope base on any rifle is to bed the rear of one piece base. I try to never use two piece bases if avoidable. If one piece bases are not an option, I still use process to align and bed the rear base to the front and bed the rear base. If I am installing expensive glass (scope) on any rifle it is worth the effort and cost to install good one piece steel base and bed the rear of the base. Once the base is true to the action and torqued to specs, I always install good rings, check alignment and true the rings to the base. The better contact your scope has with the rings, the less chance of change in impact you will have.

May have gotten a little off topic here, but it is all related to accuracy! Changing the stock on a rifle can change harmonics which can cause issues with an improperly installed scope.
 
I have no experience with Savages specifically, but on any rifle it would be worth paying attention to cheek weld. Does the new stock have adjustable height cheek piece, or a very high static cheek piece?
I had an adjustable stock that was slightly loose one day, with each shot the cheekpiece would move almost imperseptively, but it would result in a vertical string group. If your parallax is slightly off and the cheek weld changes vertically (or possibly just too high) it will give you vertical strings.
 
You simply have a bedding problem. Vertical is either load or bedding. I built and shot winning competition bench guns for 50 years for a living for a major barrel manufacturer.
First off you have been sold the idea of the bedding vee being perfect. They are not. If they were every bench gun would be using one...they are not! Second you have no idea if your action is perfectly round, full length even if the block happened to be. It's much like the lapping of scope rings falsity. Then screw holes have to be enlarged so the screws have no side contact, the recoil lug cannot bottom out, then the torque must be correct. Take some artist white oil paint and coat the bottom section of your action and lug, put it in the vee block and tighten to required specs. Remove and see what you have for contact. Never trust advertising, see for yourself. Correct the problem and re shoot. Never change two things at once in a test!
Thanx for your reply, i'm sure you will be relieved in knowing that i don't trust any advertising. Bought the stock because it fit my budget. Had great success with the same brand in my buddy's 6.5 swede in a savage action and that's when i decided to give it a shot.
 
I got a Savage 6.5 creed LRH with a accustock. It has/had pretty bad vertical stringing issues. I did torque tuning at the range and ended up with 60ip in the front and 65ip in the rear. It still wants to string but not as bad. You can tell the gun wants to shoot but that vertical stringing...
 
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I love a Savage 110 Action and a Choate stock, the only issue I had with mine was the scope came loose the day after the build and two days before Deer season.....
 
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