Switch barrel vs multiple rifles

I have 3 rifles that I switch barrels. I've found that unless you really like always rezeroing/ checking zero. You're better off with a main barrel and then the other barrel you only use for certain hunts or times of the year.

I have my rifles setup for hunting/ shooting around home and then different barrels for prairie dogs. Kinda hard to justify 4-5k for 3 rifles that i only use a week outta the year.

I think when you get more than 2 barrels for a rifle you end up spending more time checking zeros than you do shooting the caliber you want to.
 
I have 3 rifles that I switch barrels. I've found that unless you really like always rezeroing/ checking zero. You're better off with a main barrel and then the other barrel you only use for certain hunts or times of the year.

I have my rifles setup for hunting/ shooting around home and then different barrels for prairie dogs. Kinda hard to justify 4-5k for 3 rifles that i only use a week outta the year.

I think when you get more than 2 barrels for a rifle you end up spending more time checking zeros than you do shooting the caliber you want to.
I think you're right and honestly with a 6gt and a 7saum, I can take care of everything I need to. I tend to find a load that works and stick with it. Should be pretty easy to do with these two cartridges.
 
I've been using West Texas Ordinance switch lug rifles for years and love them. No nut, no headspacing, repeatable zero. One in long action std boltface, one each long and short action mag action. Something like 12 barrels between them. Zero your rifle, then record your scope settings. When you change barrels, just re-dial and start shooting.
Easy peasy.
 
I've been using West Texas Ordinance switch lug rifles for years and love them. No nut, no headspacing, repeatable zero. One in long action std boltface, one each long and short action mag action. Something like 12 barrels between them. Zero your rifle, then record your scope settings. When you change barrels, just re-dial and start shooting.
Easy peasy.
it's what i'd do also about optics
 
I have 3 Remingtons that are set up for multiple barrels. Two I switch based on purpose. However, I prefer a set up rifle. If I want to practice (308), then moving to my field course rifle is easy in the shop, but I don't have the ability to easily rezero. So while I have 6.5 addiction, 308, 223, 6 Creedmoor, and 6.5x57 barrels and 3 actions, the rezero always requires waiting for a free weekend day where there isn't another commitment. If I could go in the back yard and rezero, switch barrel would be awesome. Not as much if you have to wait for a range trip which might be the day you would have used to hunt.
 
Mine are all shouldered, screw barrel in and tighten and zero rarely changes more than an inch between the 3 barrels.
You always start with the main barrel zero, then switch and take note how many MoA/Mil you need to re-zero that barrel, take note, go BACK to original zero setting and do the same for the other barrel, take notes. Then you can switch and adjust scope at will.
None of mine require scope removal, only the stock comes off.
On my F-class switch barrels, the straight contour requires just unscrewing of the barrel, stock stays put.
I have never used a nut, each barrel is cut precisely the same, then chambered and headspaced within .001" of each other.
I have Rem 700, Win Model 70 and Kimber 84/8400 switch barrels.

Cheers.
 
I've been thinking of doing a switch barrel with a tikka for a while. Already own 6 tikkas, 4 or so see regular use.

Seems like it could make a lot of sense without have to have resident $1500 scopes, rifle, stocks,etc…. But I'm finding it hard to dump the couple customs it would negate the need for.
 
I too have done switch barrels for years. I've got a couple I can shoot as a shotgun, a muzzleloader, a rimfire, a pistol, or a rifle. Takes me all of 10 minutes for a switch. Best part about it is the changeover has zero effect on accuracy, the scopes stay with the barrels. Welcome to Thompson/Center Arms ;)

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I really prefer switch barrel gun platforms. My choice was Desert Tech, it might not be the one for you, but it does everything for me.
When you have a good switch barrel platform you can configure it for you with everything you like, and it never changes. It all stays the same and is consistent, only the cartridges of choice. It allows putting expensive components on it, with a buy once cry once motto. Chart your barrel zero's, and adjust your scope to it. The DT is extremely consistent on barrel changes, they can be done in a couple minutes and you are good to go. I'm sure others have pro's and con's so check them out. It pays off big in my opinion to go switch barrel.
 
It took much of the thread to finally bring up the fact that the stock has to be removed to change a sporter barrel as the thicker rear taper cannot clear the front of the barrel channel.

I have made multiple barrels for several sporter rifles. I do my own barrel work. Decided it is better to have the platform and make different barrel chamberings over time rather than acquire an entire rifle. To be honest while I do have those other barrels I rarely remove one barrel for another as it is not a fast process. Then there is verifying the POI, even if you know the changes needed with the scope. Guess I don't have any true switch barrel rifles.

Another point of information to help with different barrels is only the action is bedded so slightly different diameter/tapered barrel shanks can fit and clear the barrel channel.

Finally a less expensive way to deal with different bolt faces, is owning two rifles with the same action, one with a magnum bolt face the other with a non mag bolt face which will allow the switching of the bolts and, of course, headspacing with that particular bolt. Example: I have two Ruger M77 tang safety rifles in McMillan Ruger Ultralight stocks: One of them has a 6mm-284 barrel and also a 338 RCM. The other Ruger Tanger is a 284 Win. I can borrow the non magnum bolt when I use the 6mm-284 in the 338 RCM rifle.
 
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