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Suggestions for calibre and platform

How would that straight grip be comfortable?
I've never fired one or held one but it doesn't look like it would be comfortable.
It makes your elbow kick out more than the AR style does. At least for me it does shooting prone. Bench or kneeling your elbow can tuck under (point downward). Depends on what you're comfortable with.
 
So 6.5 PRC is better than CM?
I know for some reason, CM is way more commercially available.
I look at it this way, the 6.5 Creed is a better target round and the PRC is a better hunting round. You can use either for either but as a target gun the barrel life suffers on the PRC and the creed gives up 200 to 300 fps to the PRC for hunting which translates to less effective range.
I run a 6.5 creedmoor with 95gr v-max and h-4895 for tounaments. They don't get up after getting hit with these.
What kind of speeds and what barrel length? Just picked up a box to try out of my 28" creed to see what kind of varmint round I can make with them.
Can that straight grip be swapped out for the AR style?
It can as long as it doesn't have a beaver tail on the grip. The Elite Precision uses an MDT ACC chassis. Here is their site for some additional info on the chassis itself.

 
Not a lot adjusted the trigger pull weight to my liking, bedded the action to my liking and as stated before used a go no-go gauge to check the chamber but mostly loaded my own rounds to fit the chamber and figure out the correct seating depth, fine-tuned the velocity, and figured out what bullets it liked best. There are some fine rounds out there but not every bullet reacts to the barrel the same from rifle to rifle. Just play with different bullets that are loaded to find ones that are suitable to you. Mine did well with Nosler 120 grain ballistic tips so that was my starting place. Yours may like Hornady or 140 grain bullets it's not a one size or brand fits all thing. As an example, I have a Winchester model 70 chambered in 30-06 that shoots factory Winchester 125 grain bullets to less than 1 MOA at 100 yards but with Remington 125 grain bullets it opens up to about 2 MOA, Hornady rounds are even worst, Nosler ammo runs about the same as the Remington ammo. There is nothing wrong with any of the loaded rounds my rifle just likes the Winchester rounds best. Or my 223 that will shoot Sierra 55 grain hollow point boat tail bullets that I load but not any other bullets that I also load nearly as well. But then for me it's playing with what I start out with to find what runs best in my rifle, playing with my rifles to make them fit me and my expectations that I enjoy most about shooting for others it's picking up a rifle and going out and just shooting it right out of the box that gets them excited. I haven't bought a rifle in a long time and just took it out and shot it and been satisfied with the beginning results in a lot of years. I tend to take a long time just breaking in my barrels at first then checking the bedding and adjusting or replacing the triggers then starting to develop a load for them. But then I am OCD about all of the things to deal with my rifles and pistols where some just want to buy one clean it and go shoot it rifles are a lot like cars or trucks that way it's all in what we find enjoyable to us and how deeply we want to get involved with them.
 
Speaking of break in.....
Did you have to do the traditional break in with this? That is the, 'shoot one round, clean, remove copper then repeat'?
I did that with my Remington 700PSS that is in 223. That was exhausting. I gave up after 40 rounds. The patch still was coming out, utterly blue.
Anyway.....
Do y'all break in barrels like that anymore?
(Its been awhile since I've fired guns for fun just to fire them, I'm way out of practice)
 
I do it a little different but yes, I clean it after every shot for ten rounds then after every three for 30 rounds. If you used a bronze jag or brush and copper fowling remover, you would never get past getting blue patches. Just a thought as I have seen that happen before.
 
I do it a little different but yes, I clean it after every shot for ten rounds then after every three for 30 rounds. If you used a bronze jag or brush and copper fowling remover, you would never get past getting blue patches. Just a thought as I have seen that happen before.
I did use a bronze jag but it was covered with the patch.
What do you use?
 
When I'm using copper fowling remover, I use a nylon jag. So many of the copper cleaners use ammonia and it will soak through the patch and a bronze brush or bronze jag will then turn the patch blue. In the military many years ago I used some copper cleaner that had hydrogen cyanide in it. I'm not a fan of that or the ammonia but a person needs to use what works for them and what they like to get the bore cleaned. There are several good products on the market as well as several good, coated cleaning rods, nylon brushes and jags along with bore guides. You don't have to do the break in all at the same setting you can do the 10 single shots and cleaning while sighting in if you want to. Then keep a note of the three shots and cleaning while you are shooting coyotes, deer hunting ect and watch your grouping to see how or if it changes as, you are doing it. So many times, it's pretty hard to not get excited and get the barrel hot while doing the break in. If you find yourself shooting some of the Russian ammo or happen to find some older American ammo you will want to clean right after shooting it as it has corrosive primers in it, mercury fulminate was used in a lot of ammo and still is in Russian ammo.
 
OK I guess I never realized brass jags did that. I will buy a nylon one very soon. I do use nylon brushes, just because sometimes the brass brushes get badly stuck in there and I do have coated cleaning rods but I seem to have lost my bore guide. I will need to buy another one.
 
Look at some reading materials by Tony Boyer, Mike Ratigan, David Tubb, Dave Brennan, Frank Pearman or others. They have some good information that might be of interest to you. Most of the chassis' type of rifles that you look at are good. A good bolt action rifle in a standard stock is another option. An entry level option might be a Ruger predator or a Savage 110 either of which can be bought under 1000.00, good optics properly mounted makes a world of difference, proper cleaning methods and care of your equipment there is so much more to it than just buying a rifle and ammo it isn't an overnight adventure. Studying, practicing and learning are all time consuming but are the best route to being successful in your quest while not getting frustrated and discouraged then quitting after laying out a bunch of money. You can go to youtube and look up some of the names mentioned above as well as looking at precision rifles, beginning bench rest shooting and a few other topics before you lay out your money.
 
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