Easton FMJ'S. Definitely. Made in USA. Best arrow shaft I have ever shot, by far. You'll never have the problem you had with this arrow. Never.
-
If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here
Successful harvest after an arrow failure.
- Thread starter Lovellr653
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
itchytriggerfinger
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2010
- Messages
- 100
Carbon arrows need to be inspected after every shot. Bend them while rolling next to your ear to make sure they are not damaged and compromised in any way. If using an aluminum/carbon composite shaft you don't need to worry about this, but with aluminum you give up the advantage of the resiliency of carbon. Carbon will flex, if aluminum bends it stays bent.
hawg chaser
Well-Known Member
Grizzly sticks are made by victory. They are a great arrow, but can be tricky to tune due to the taper they have. If it were me, I'd get either Victory RIP TKO'S or Serius Apollo's. I'd recommend a good quality stainless steel insert. The serius arrows come with them. The victory don't. Whatever you do, stay away from Easton FMJ's. They are a disaster waiting to happen.
BS. BS. BS. You have no idea what the heck you're talking about.
There's nothing wrong with the Maxima Reds , more than likely your nock failed, I have seen it happen. If your shooting tight groups, they can get nicked or even split over time and there is the distinct possibility that one could have had a slight defect in it from new. Always inspect the nocks as now you can see what can happen. You are lucky that your bow did not come apart, a split nock is like a dry fire, glad you are ok!
Lovellr653
Well-Known Member
Wouldn't have guessed the knock could be culprit but that does make sense. Thinking more of it now, the end of the arrow I found had all fletchings intact but the knock was missing. I have replaced knocks and the nock collars as needed in the past due to wear and impacts. I'll be replacing them all before shooting again. Thanks for the insight.
rogerstv
Well-Known Member
I shoot Gold Tip Ultralight Pro due to their low straightness tolerance. They are "target" arrows, but the whitetails don't seem to care .... ; )
solocam808
Active Member
Not sure what your arrows are cut at but I'd guess they're on the longer side being that your draw length is 30". I'd probably lean towards a 300 spine. I'm currently shooting Victory Vap TKO's and like them. I used to shoot Easton Axis and Gold Tip Pierce Platinum's and they worked great.
I had an arrow blow up on me like that this season in the back yard, I thought I had missed the target but then I found the back half of the arrow 20 yards to the side of me. I think at some point I had hit that shaft while shooting groups and didn't realize it was cracked. Now I flex every arrow before it gets shot, it's an easy insurance policy before you get carbon in the arm.
You might consider going to a 300 spine next time you get arrows, I threw your set up in archers advantage and you are on the soft side.
You might consider going to a 300 spine next time you get arrows, I threw your set up in archers advantage and you are on the soft side.
hawg chaser
Well-Known Member
They are very prone to bending. Especially with a hard impact. Also, Easton's HIT insert system does not do well with impact either. When the insert system fails it drives the head and insert back into the shaft blowing the end out and killing the penetration. Structural integrity is very important for arrow lethality.
I shoot good tip velocity series arrows. I also am at a 30" draw length my shop recommended 340 spine arrows I had a heck of a time tuning, i researched and found I was on the edge of being lite for arrow spine. So I found some 300s and got the bow tuned in right away. I would recommend any of the gold tip arrows because that's what we shoot the most. The pierce arrows penetrate very well.
