stubborn factory barrel removal

sven556

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Apr 6, 2019
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I am trying to remove a factory barrel from a remington 700. I've tried about every method that I've read to hold the barrel, and none have worked yet. I am using the Wheeler Barrel Vise and NSS Action wrench. The action wrench seems to hold firm but I can't keep the barrel from spinning in the barrel vise. So far I have been using oak jaws in the barrel vise. I have tried using paper between the blocks for added friction, didn't hold. Powdered sugar didn't work. A propane torch into the chamber didn't work. On the propane torch, I had the action wrench bolted to the action while I applied the torch to the chamber, would the action wrench have acted as a large heat sink and not allowed enough heat to the threads? Even the action wrench was pretty hot by the time I quit.

After everything cooled off I put the barrel in the pipe jaws of my bench vise and tried to remove the action again without any results. The barrel just spins in the vise jaws!

So the barrel isn't going to be saved. I'm about to take the barrel vise and barrel, epoxy the barrel to the wood blocks, let it set up and try again. Any suggestions on what I should try now?
 
Use a pipe wrench if your don't care about the barrel.

Put the action In the action wrench and then hold the action wrench In your bench vise. Take a pipe wrench to the barrel and twist it off. Might have to use a cheater on the pipe wrench
 
If the pipe jaws on my bench vise won't hold it, do you think a pipe wrench would have any better luck? This is a factory sporter barrel, sides are not parallel. I'm willing to try a pipe wrench, just thought the bench vise would be better.
 
if the action wrench clamps around the action make sure you use the bolt in the action mounting hole and don't over tighten the clamp bolts or you will squeeze the action to the barrel tenion and make it almost impossible to loosen. better yet is to use a rear entry action wrench
 
If the old barrel is junk grind two "flat" spots on it so the pipe wrench will find a better grip. Use a cheater pipe on it and possibly the wheeler action wrench handle if the bench vise won't hold it.
As stated don't overtighten the action wrench bolts just "snug" and use the 1/4-28 bolt thru the front action screw hole.
You may have to setup everything on the floor and stand/jump on the cheaters.
It should come off that way.
Btw: You probably wont need heat but if you heat it should be applied to the receiver not the barrel. That way the receiver gets expands. Applying heat to the chamber makes the barrel "bigger". Quick cooling the barrel after heating the receiver may also help.
Good luck, it will come off.
 
Normally if a barrel resist coming apart and I don't intend to keep it I chuck it up in the lathe holding the barrel and using a parting off tool I make a cut .008 to .010 just ahead of the recoil lug to relieve the compression. I cut down to the barrel tenon (It should be 1 1/6 " in diameter) And the barrel can be unscrewed by hand most of the time.

I prefer to just brake down a barrel and receiver, but sometimes they just jive you trouble and this works every time.

J E CUSTOM
 
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You need steel or aluminum jaws in the vice and cranked down, put the action wrench handle straight out to the left parallel to the floor, you have to strike it with a fast strike, I use a 2 Lb splitting axe, I've never had to cut a barrel of and a rem will usually spin. Long wrenches, putting huge torque will eventually work but a quick sharp strike will get you a lot more for less.
 
+1 to JE Custom.

Watched friend do this recently on a heavy barrel Tikka. Once 'cut to tenon' it came apart very easily!
 
distorting the action can make it seem VERY tight. Yes, pipe wrench on the old barrel in your vise will hold its while you turn the action
 
On a 700 I'd assume you could also make a cut into the recoil lug with a saw or Dremel (careful not to hit the action face) if you're trying to save the barrel. I'm no expert, but it would have a similar effect on loosening things up.
 
If you hold things secure with the right tools these barrels spin of, I've never cut a barrel in all the ones I've done or even really fought one. Tikka, Rem, Vanguard all no issues, one hit and they spin but you have to hold the barrel securely!!
 
I have never had a Remington barrel that was stuck on mainly howas And very old guns I Usually get them off with other methods first. but When I have a stuck barrel there are two different things I do to get them off but it's not pretty, the first thing is I use a pipe wrench to keep the barrel from spinning and hit the action wrench with rubber mallet but it will leave bad marks on the barrel you have to be very careful the you don't twist the action so pay close attention. The other thing I do is put it in my lathe and make a relief cut as close to the action as Possible without touching the action.
 
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