Stress Free Bedding

[ntsqd]

I hear you, and that could be correct. I went fail safe mode...

Maybe it hurts potential accuracy to tape only one side of the recoil lug. Maybe it doesn't. I've read from some accomplished gunsmiths that don't tape either side of their recoil lugs. They want the lug as solidly bedded as possible on both sides. Others tape both sides. I have read that benchrest competitors commonly used to epoxy bed their entire actions into their stocks in the pursuit of ultimate accuracy from their heavy bench rifles. And I mean without the use of any release agent. Glued in there until released by application of heat to break the epoxy bond.

I have no confirmation one way or the other if not taping the torque resisting side is a good idea, or a bad one. My education and career in engineering led me to that approach. Sometimes education and career can take you down a rabbit hole. But rifle shoots good enough for my uses, so I'm not going to mess with the way it's been bedded.

I'm fairly sure that the 1500 Mini is an exception, no idea if it is the only one.

In my mind the perfect recoil lug is tapered on the sides AND on the front face below the barrel register OD. Then no tape needed, forms a wedge fit, yet releases from the stock w/o destroying the fit. That is why I use the tape, to allow the action to be R&R'd w/o damaging the bedding. If the action is never, ever going to come out of the stock, then you can run with no tape. At the point I wouldn't bother with release agent either. If it is going to come out then tape and release agent are required unless the plan is to re-bed it every fifth to seventh removal. (I'm basing that interval on roughly how often I've read of M1A's needing to be re-bedded because removing them from the stock does wear on the bedding.)

 

[codyadams]

Well, I know with the sides, bottom and front of the lug taped like I did in the photo, the gun shoots well under half MOA to well over 1000 yards. This season, that rifle was used on an elk taken with a cold bore shot literally through it's heart at 1002 yards, so if there is any loss in accuracy, it is not noticed in this particular set up. The action is torqued down to 65 in-lbs, for reference, it is a stiller tac 338 chambered in .338 Norma. I think there are many ways to skin a cat, and taping the sides may leave it open to twisting, I can see the thought process, but if it has happened it hasn't caused any known issues for me. I know the rest of the action is a very tight fit, when dropping it in it "clicks" in place. I have bedded with and without taping the sides, and I honestly can't tell a difference in the outcome other than getting it in and out once a year for my after season thorough cleaning. I have only bedded probably 50 or so rifles, nothing compared to pretty much any gun smith and many other shooters out there, so take it for what it's worth.

 

[Pdvdh]

Well, I know with the sides, bottom and front of the lug taped like I did in the photo, the gun shoots well under half MOA to well over 1000 yards.

Might shoot .1s without tape.

Not that I'm a good enough shot to tell the difference on targets.

 

[ntsqd]

Mr. Adams, Clearly you're doing it wrong.

<sarcasm>

BTW your bedding count is way up on me.

 

[Pdvdh]

I would bed mine like David Tubbs beds his, IF I knew how he did it.

 

[codyadams]

Might shoot .1s without tape.

Not that I'm a good enough shot to tell the difference on targets.

Ha ha likely!! Not sure I could hold it that still though, and I would probably have to get better at loading precision ammo!! Lol

 

[Alex Wheeler]

You want something locating the action in the stock. If its got a flat or some surface that registers in the bedding you can tape off the lug if you want. Action screws are not to be used for torque resistance or locating the action.
Stress free means no clamps, tape, tubing, ext. Come up with a way to let things cure with nothing touching them. The weight of your finger touching the side of a stock is enough to flex it and see the wet epoxy move. Again, NO tape, clamps, or surgical tubing! If you have to use something to hold it in place its not stress free not to mention those things are not just holding the action down, they are squeezing the stock and when released you have a looser fit. The loosest bedding job can measure stress free, but its not doing a good job of absorbing the harmonics from the barreled action.
Gluing in an action is always the best way, but not practical in a hunting rifle.

 

[Jud96]

You want something locating the action in the stock. If its got a flat or some surface that registers in the bedding you can tape off the lug if you want. Action screws are not to be used for torque resistance or locating the action.
Stress free means no clamps, tape, tubing, ext. Come up with a way to let things cure with nothing touching them. The weight of your finger touching the side of a stock is enough to flex it and see the wet epoxy move. Again, NO tape, clamps, or surgical tubing! If you have to use something to hold it in place its not stress free not to mention those things are not just holding the action down, they are squeezing the stock and when released you have a looser fit. The loosest bedding job can measure stress free, but its not doing a good job of absorbing the harmonics from the barreled action.
Gluing in an action is always the best way, but not practical in a hunting rifle.

Thank you! Very good response. I really value your input. Thanks!

 

[Pdvdh]

Nice,

Thanks Alex. Just in time. I have two actions about to be bedded. I was hoping the differing opinions in this thread would draw out some of the more experienced gunsmiths...

 

[DavidleeCole]

I bed tight with release agent and only tape an inch forward of the action, only to stop the bedding from oozing into the barrel section. I see the idea you use and like the approach of engineer methods.