Straight Jacket Required

[rcoody]

Ok, thanks for all the info. To answer a few of the questions I will start by saying that I don't anneal or just neck size. I have been taking baby steps. I really haven't played with primers either. I honestly think that if I don't quit doing load development that this barrel will be gone as, after figuring it up today, I have approx 700 rounds through it. My loads are not that hot though. My velocity for the 95 gr sierra averages 2973 fps and 2855 fps for the 105's with 39.5 and 39.0 gr charges respectfully so it's not like I'm torching the barrel. Simply getting my best accuracy at these charges. I do think that I definitely need to get more precise dies and even a scale as I still weigh charges with rcbs beam scale. I do weigh cases with a digital scale from Frankford Arsenal. It got good reviews so I bought it but haven't weighed charges with it. I also know that I should neck size only and will prob buy a neck sizing die. The primers I use are cci-200 and win lg rifle primers, should I try a different primer? What do you all recommend?

remember baby steps. Try one thing at a time and see what the results are. Primers are cheap. Lots of different opinions on primers. I like the cci bench rest primers and will stick with them.

my scales weight to 0.02 of a grain. When you weigh to the nearest 0.10 of a grain then the actual load could easily vary 0.15 or more. I feel that isn't accurate enough for long range. Opinions vary.

lots of differences of opinion on full length sizing and neck sizing. Most of the proponents of full length sizing have custom dies made from their fired brass. I do both. I find that there is little difference between the two as far as accuracy is concerned.

you are starting on a long journey. It is lots of fun if you are one to enjoy the details and nuances of the hobby.

 

[rcoody]

Ok, thanks for all the info. To answer a few of the questions I will start by saying that I don't anneal or just neck size. I have been taking baby steps. I really haven't played with primers either. I honestly think that if I don't quit doing load development that this barrel will be gone as, after figuring it up today, I have approx 700 rounds through it. My loads are not that hot though. My velocity for the 95 gr sierra averages 2973 fps and 2855 fps for the 105's with 39.5 and 39.0 gr charges respectfully so it's not like I'm torching the barrel. Simply getting my best accuracy at these charges. I do think that I definitely need to get more precise dies and even a scale as I still weigh charges with rcbs beam scale. I do weigh cases with a digital scale from Frankford Arsenal. It got good reviews so I bought it but haven't weighed charges with it. I also know that I should neck size only and will prob buy a neck sizing die. The primers I use are cci-200 and win lg rifle primers, should I try a different primer? What do you all recommend?

did you buy that rifle to shoot or look pretty. It is an awesome shooter. You should be proud. I wouldn't baby that barrel. I would keep shooting. barrels are expendables just like primers and brass. With a savage changing barrels is a snap. you can do it yourself. I just hope it shoots as good for you.

Now if it were a hunting rifle I would put it in the gun case and save the barrel. Buy something else for range use with more barrel life.

 

[Trickymissfit]

yep

that .243 is a real barrel burner. Of course at one time it was a very popular long range target caliber. His results are some indication why. But it is a savage. Burning out the barrel just gives him a good excuse to slap on the next one. No gunsmithing required!

I am building me one for a switchbarrel. Savage precision target action, 28" straight taper barrel in 6.5 creedmore and another barrel in 6mm BR, Shehane tracker stock. Should be an accurate one.

Way I see it you headspace the barrel, glue the barrel nut to the headspaced barrel with blue locktite, inlet in stock where there is room for the barrel nut when the barrel is unscrewed then you can change barrels without even taking the action out of the stock. One guy is doing this but his barrels sure are ugly.

Larry Racine's Switch-Barrel System « Daily Bulletin

The way to fix the barrel gone bad thing is to simply do about four threads setback, and run a 6mmAI reamer in the chamber to head space as if it were a .243 Ackley. Now your fixing the problem, and giving the bullet a better neck to guide it into the throat. Your automatically going to gain case volume because the bullet will not be seated into the shoulder area (heavy bullets mostly). Form your brass out of 6.5x55 or 6mm Remington. Or just about anything off the Mauser case family, but longer than 2.2". I shoot the 6/250AI, and the velocity with a 105 Amax is slightly under 3100 fps. Cases are made from generic .243 Winchester. Has the same issues of the .243, but when I do the set back; I'll simply run the 6mm Ackley reamer in the chamber for a longer necked 6/250AI (about .335") .

gary

 

[Ghost7]

Thanks to all for advice and input. I am going to try some different primers and continue with the load development. Rcoody made a good point about shooting the rifle and after thinking on it I'm kind of excited about shooting out the barrel to try a new faster twist or different round. I'm also going to try my hand at annealing. Thanks again all.

 

[rcoody]

Glad I helped you with that decision. You made the right one.

I want to build me a savage on the target action but finding one is almost imposible. If I can find a model 12 target with right bolt left port I will just buy the rifle and sell the barrel and stock on ebay.

If you are going to try annealing you have to do it right and consistently every time. If you do decide to do it by hand then use the templaq to get your heat right. Don't do the just glowing in a dark room method.

I use a Giraud annealer but I have heard a lot of good stuff recently about this one.

Annealeez

about half what mine cost

If I were you I would try getting those SD's down a bit with consistent reloading practices.

Buy you a good set of match dies. I like forster and they are a little cheaper than redding. Might try a set of the redding S dies. I just ordered a set but by the time you buy bushings you will have some money invested.

get you some lapua brass. No brass prep necessary.

How are you weighing powder. Getting the variation of your powder charges down to 0.05 should help with your SD's. I am sure I will get flack on this forum for that statement but it worked for me. Trickling on a gempro is a sure way to get accurate powder charges.

Good luck. Reloading is a journey. At every step you learn something new.

 

[Trickymissfit]

Glad I helped you with that decision. You made the right one.

I want to build me a savage on the target action but finding one is almost imposible. If I can find a model 12 target with right bolt left port I will just buy the rifle and sell the barrel and stock on ebay.

If you are going to try annealing you have to do it right and consistently every time. If you do decide to do it by hand then use the templaq to get your heat right. Don't do the just glowing in a dark room method.

I use a Giraud annealer but I have heard a lot of good stuff recently about this one.

Annealeez

about half what mine cost

If I were you I would try getting those SD's down a bit with consistent reloading practices.

Buy you a good set of match dies. I like forster and they are a little cheaper than redding. Might try a set of the redding S dies. I just ordered a set but by the time you buy bushings you will have some money invested.

get you some lapua brass. No brass prep necessary.

How are you weighing powder. Getting the variation of your powder charges down to 0.05 should help with your SD's. I am sure I will get flack on this forum for that statement but it worked for me. Trickling on a gempro is a sure way to get accurate powder charges.

Good luck. Reloading is a journey. At every step you learn something new.

I've heard you can get the action from Northland for about $500. It comes with the target trigger which is an upgrade from the varmint trigger. Have heard it's a zero creep 6oz. system. The PTA action does have one issue with, you must work the bolt slowly or else set it up for about a twelve ounce pull. Also only comes in a three screw single shot action. Some folks have changed out the trigger assembly for a Rifle Basix to get around the slow bolt issue. Of course you can simply order in a custom shop gun that uses the same action. Probably the single most accurate rifle sold in this country.
gary

 

[rcoody]

I've heard you can get the action from Northland for about $500. It comes with the target trigger which is an upgrade from the varmint trigger. Have heard it's a zero creep 6oz. system. The PTA action does have one issue with, you must work the bolt slowly or else set it up for about a twelve ounce pull. Also only comes in a three screw single shot action. Some folks have changed out the trigger assembly for a Rifle Basix to get around the slow bolt issue. Of course you can simply order in a custom shop gun that uses the same action. Probably the single most accurate rifle sold in this country.
gary

like this one

Savage Long Range-Rifles

really sux that such a nice action doesn't have a Jewell trigger available.

 

[Ghost7]

Guys, I know that I don't have much experience in comparison to most but I don't see how you could improve on the trigger I have on the Savage LRP. It is different than standard accutrigger, I believe it is the target version. I really like it and everyone that has shot it has commented on it. I don't know what it is set on, lbs/oz wise, but definitely the nicest trigger I have ever had.

 

[rcoody]

Guys, I know that I don't have much experience in comparison to most but I don't see how you could improve on the trigger I have on the Savage LRP. It is different than standard accutrigger, I believe it is the target version. I really like it and everyone that has shot it has commented on it. I don't know what it is set on, lbs/oz wise, but definitely the nicest trigger I have ever had.

thanks for that info. I just ordered a model 12 stainless steel target action with right bolt left port. when I get it I will order a shilen select match 28" 6.5 creedmore barrel and a Shehane ST-1000L stock. going to take a while to gather the parts and then another while to get it together. just hope it is a shooter when I get done.

going to be fun and I expect to learn a lot. Doing the pillar bedding and bedding the action will be a real learning experience.

 

[LoneTraveler]

Check the bedding on the action and the recoil lug. Check torque on action screws. Aneal some brass and If possible borrow a neck sizing die and neck size about 20 shells to try. My brother had a 700 Rem. 243 Win. that would not shoot FL sized brass, But shot Necked sized brass well. Good Luck on this adventure.

 

[Trickymissfit]

like this one

Savage Long Range-Rifles

really sux that such a nice action doesn't have a Jewell trigger available.

Where he dreams up the $2K price is silly! The highest price I've ever heard was $565 complete with trigger. Now if that's a complete rifle; I'm good with it.

On a side note, Savage sells a F class rifle, a rifle for benchrest shooting, and a Palma rifle as well.
gary

 

[Trickymissfit]

thanks for that info. I just ordered a model 12 stainless steel target action with right bolt left port. when I get it I will order a shilen select match 28" 6.5 creedmore barrel and a Shehane ST-1000L stock. going to take a while to gather the parts and then another while to get it together. just hope it is a shooter when I get done.

going to be fun and I expect to learn a lot. Doing the pillar bedding and bedding the action will be a real learning experience.

Be sure to spec a three screw action for the stock. Think they are normally two screw. Also, I would recommend sending the action to "Rusty Stud" (he's on here, but cannot for the life of me remember his name), and have the action timed with his bolt lift kit. You'll never regret it!
gary

 

[rcoody]

Where he dreams up the $2K price is silly! The highest price I've ever heard was $565 complete with trigger. Now if that's a complete rifle; I'm good with it.

On a side note, Savage sells a F class rifle, a rifle for benchrest shooting, and a Palma rifle as well.
gary

pretty obvious you didn't even look at the website.

I found it quite interesting