Springfield Rifle question

[Varmint Hunter]

My buddy has an old Springfield rifle that was (somewhat) sporterized by his father many years ago. He insists on hunting with the relic even though I offered him a beautiful custom rifle to use. He did shoot a nice buck and doe this year so the (30-06) rifle is functional.
However, the bolt drags a bit, the bore hasn't been cleaned in a decade or more and the scope is cloudy. I told him to leave the rifle with me and I'll do whatever I can to improve the rifle. I have a nice bright Nikon scope to mount that I don't use, so that's an easy fix. I'll soak the bore for a couple of days and then brush it out before sighting it in. My question is; how do you remove the bolt? Is there anything particular to this old rifle that I should know?

 

[Chuckrub]

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=re...i=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kAF8Uulhd1U

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

My buddy has an old Springfield rifle that was (somewhat) sporterized by his father many years ago. He insists on hunting with the relic even though I offered him a beautiful custom rifle to use. He did shoot a nice buck and doe this year so the (30-06) rifle is functional.
However, the bolt drags a bit, the bore hasn't been cleaned in a decade or more and the scope is cloudy. I told him to leave the rifle with me and I'll do whatever I can to improve the rifle. I have a nice bright Nikon scope to mount that I don't use, so that's an easy fix. I'll soak the bore for a couple of days and then brush it out before sighting it in. My question is; how do you remove the bolt? Is there anything particular to this old rifle that I should know?

View attachment 615614

(1) Install and close the bolt in the rifle with the firing pin cocked. Then lift the safety lock to the vertical position.

(2) Set the magazine cutoff to the center position and remove the bolt from the rifle.

(3) Press the bolt sleeve lock on the left side of the bolt sleeve, then unscrew the bolt sleeve/firing pin assembly from the bolt.

(4) Grasp the bolt sleeve between the fingers of your left hand, pull back on the cocking piece with the thumb and middle finger of your right hand, then lower the safety lock with your index finger. Then lower the cocking piece.

(5) Place the end of the cocking piece against your right thigh, grasp the knurled firing pin sleeve between your thumb and middle or index finger, and pull back on the sleeve. Then slide the striker off the firing pin. Then slowly release the firing pin sleeve and mainspring tension.

Re-assemble as follows.

(1) Place the mainspring and sleeve on the firing pin. Place the end of the firing pin against your thigh and pull back on the sleeve. Slide the striker onto the end of the firing pin, then slowly release the sleeve.

(2) Grasp the bolt sleeve between the fingers of your left hand. Then grab the cocking piece between the thumb (behind the knuckle) and middle finger and pull back on the cocking piece. While holding back the cocking piece, use the tip of your thumb to lift the safety lock.

(3) Screw the bolt sleeve/firing pin assembly back into the bolt until the sleeve locks in position.

(4) Reinstall the bolt back in the rifle.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

Thanks for your very informative response.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

(1) Install and close the bolt in the rifle with the firing pin cocked. Then lift the safety lock to the vertical position.

(2) Set the magazine cutoff to the center position and remove the bolt from the rifle.

(3) Press the bolt sleeve lock on the left side of the bolt sleeve, then unscrew the bolt sleeve/firing pin assembly from the bolt.

(4) Grasp the bolt sleeve between the fingers of your left hand, pull back on the cocking piece with the thumb and middle finger of your right hand, then lower the safety lock with your index finger. Then lower the cocking piece.

(5) Place the end of the cocking piece against your right thigh, grasp the knurled firing pin sleeve between your thumb and middle or index finger, and pull back on the sleeve. Then slide the striker off the firing pin. Then slowly release the firing pin sleeve and mainspring tension.

Re-assemble as follows.

(1) Place the mainspring and sleeve on the firing pin. Place the end of the firing pin against your thigh and pull back on the sleeve. Slide the striker onto the end of the firing pin, then slowly release the sleeve.

(2) Grasp the bolt sleeve between the fingers of your left hand. Then grab the cocking piece between the thumb (behind the knuckle) and middle finger and pull back on the cocking piece. While holding back the cocking piece, use the tip of your thumb to lift the safety lock.

(3) Screw the bolt sleeve/firing pin assembly back into the bolt until the sleeve locks in position.

(4) Reinstall the bolt back in the rifle.

One other question - Is the Springfield strong enough to shoot modern 30-06 hunting ammo? The guy who owns the rifle shot a few rounds of Win 165gr hunting ammo without issue but then he got thinking about the guns age and the appropriate ammo for it.

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

They sell ammo specifically for this rifle. I believe it is a bit nemic compared to today's ammo. A choice the owner should make IMO.

 

[txtrout]

If the serial number of the rifle is above 1000000, there shouldn't be any issues with any factory 30-06 ammo in a Springfield. Is it a Remington made rifle?

The Springfield 1903 action is just as strong as a Mauser 98 action.

As for special 30-06 ammo, that is for the M1 not the Springfield, unless you are talking about the GI style issues ball ammo. The M1 is designed for 50k PSI or lower. The 1903 Springfield is good at 60K psi.

As for you friends rifle, if I was taking the bolt apart, I'd consider putting a Wolff service rifle spring kit in it.

And that s a wonderful thing to do for him..

 

[Victor3Ranger1]

I wouldn't be afraid to shoot any modern 30-06 ammo in a 1903

Same with a 1917

 

[ObiJohn]

That looks like a 1903A3, and should be safe for any modern .30-'06 factory load as well as handloads that stay within SAAMI specs.

Interestingly, the original '06 M1 Ball had about the same muzzle velocities as today's .308/7.62x51 NATO loads with the same bullets, but both have seen an increase with modern propellants. Nothing wrong with such a rifle depending on how accurately it shoots, but I'd expect 1.5" or under 100 yard groups depending on the condition of the barrel (it doesn't help to not clean a barrel for a decade).

A lot of very nice, and very accurate custom hunting and target rifles have been built that are based on the 1903 action. It's not a benchrest action but certainly did well until commercial actions with better lock time were introduced.

 

[M1A1ABRAMS]

CMP Warning - .30/06 Ammo & M1 Garands, 1903s, and 1903A3s

I just got this e-mail from the CMP today regarding the use of .30-06 ammo in M1 Garands, 1903s, and 1903A3s. Basically, don't hot rod your ammo and be careful what factory ammo you run through them.

www.longrangehunting.com

 

[Varmint Hunter]

If the serial number of the rifle is above 1000000, there shouldn't be any issues with any factory 30-06 ammo in a Springfield. Is it a Remington made rifle?

The Springfield 1903 action is just as strong as a Mauser 98 action.

As for special 30-06 ammo, that is for the M1 not the Springfield, unless you are talking about the GI style issues ball ammo. The M1 is designed for 50k PSI or lower. The 1903 Springfield is good at 60K psi.

As for you friends rifle, if I was taking the bolt apart, I'd consider putting a Wolff service rifle spring kit in it.

And that s a wonderful thing to do for him..

Just for further identification:
The rifle has a serial number that begins with a "4" and is followed by 6 digits. So I guess it represents 4 million plus.
The rifle has Weaver bases which are on tight enough that I'd be afraid to force the little screws out. However, under the front base you can see "RE" and half of an "M" with the remaining letters covered by the base. I assume that the rifle is of Remington manufacturer.