So, Muzzle Brake attachment….

[1wildcatfan]

Rocksett???

 

[FEENIX]

Are you talking about the factory radial style brake?

If so, those are the worst style brake available IMO. Lots of extra noise and minimal recoil mitigation benefit. Not to mention if you shoot prone blasting first and debris everywhere.

LOL, yes! I had radial brakes from Vais and Quiet Brake from Gentry (there is nothing quiet about it) and could not get rid of them quickly enough. Unfortunately, I still have a rifle with Vais because it came with it. I have other MBs of the same caliber, but the muzzle thread differs. I am leaving it as-is for now.

 

[nksmfamjp]

Rocksett???

Not a machine gun!!!

 

[ButterBean]

2 things, if stainless to stainless, use nickel anti seize on the threads.
I do not recommend loctite use on any muzzle device.
Put it on by hand, use a wrench to nip it up enough that you can't easily undo it by hand, that's it, done…
Have seen over tightened factory guns several times, galling when undoing this is a real thing, do not overtighten them, threads are thin, be gentle.

Cheers.

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[Idaho Lefty]

Have I mentioned Before, just how MUCH, We in my Family Like, the PVA "Back Country" Brakes ???
"Concussion / Blast", IS Mitigated away from, the Shooter ( As much as Possible & Still "Works well" to, reduce Recoil ! ) and WITH, a Self-Timing Nut !
Cartridges Used,. 6.5 Creed, 6.5 PRC, .270 WSM and,. 7MM PRC !
We use Anti Seize Grease then, Level and tighten Nut with, Wrench, "Goot N tight" ) Done ( None have, Loosened up,.. NONE !! ).
Good, Ear Plugs or Muff's, SHOULD Always, Be used !

 

[Idaho Lefty]

The .270 WSM is, a Sub, 8 Pound Tikka, and has been "Tamed" so Well that, my 14 Y/o grandson can shoot 20-25 Rounds of Practice at Steel, with NO,.. Recoil "issues",.. No Flinching and No, complaints, from him !
A few weeks ago, he shot a Nice, Buck Antelope ( Prone ) at, 258 yards ( DRT, thru Upper shoulders ! ) W/ 140 gr. Berger Classic Hunt @ 3,175 FPS
It died ( disappeared ) so Fast that, he thought that, he Missed it !!!

 

[ntsqd]

I recall being told by someone years ago, who should have known the details about why, to never use copper based anti-seize on anything stainless steel. I have not been able to find anything online to support this, but it sticks in my head. So, right or wrong, I find myself sticking to it.

LPS Copper based has been my general go-to anti-seize for decades. Lately I've switched to using Lock-tite 8023 Marine Grade Anti-Seize as my general go-to and some higher demand applications get Armite MIL-PRF-907F This is a lead based anti-seize and the only place that I've been able to locate it for sale is here. It reminds me of the old Lubriplate lead based anti-seize, which apparently is NLA. It is rated to operate from -350°F (-212°C) to 2987°F (1641°C) Note that it is much easier to find MIL-PRF_907H, which is not the same stuff!

 

[Mike D Texas]

Yes, I am talking about the Factory break. My thought is that 6.5 Creedmoor those issues probably won't affect me very much.

If you look around online, there is some testing with larger and larger holes on muzzle brakes the effect is not as big as one might think.

It's not about hole size, it's about design.

For recoil mitigation the angled 90° port style brakes are the most effective but to the detriment of blast and noise directed toward the shooter.

The straight 90° port design is close but is more friendly to the shooter.

The radial style are at the bottom of the effectiveness list with the added issue of debris blast when shooting prone.