My criteria when it comes to threading for muzzle devices depends largely on whether it's a brake- or a suppressor.
In your case, I would probably be OK with threading for a brake, assuming the bore isn't more than a few thousandths out of being concentric with the barrel OD. This isn't usually an issue most barrels (certainly not upper tier ones). Keep in mind that however much the bore is "out" of being concentric reduces your shoulder by the same amount. Brakes are much shorter than suppressors, so perfect concentricity is not quite as critical. I'll cut class 3 threads for best fitment, and using Rocksett to make sure the brake cannot vibrate loose snug it up lightly against the shoulder. Minimal shoulder will provide correct alignment, Rocksett will make sure it stays that way. You don't need to rely on using a lot of torque (which could crush/deform a minimal shoulder) with this method.
So why the 3/4" threads, rather than 5/8"? What caliber are we talking about? Barrel wall thickness is also an important consideration. As mentioned, it's best to use the largest thread OD practical, as this maximizes barrel wall thickness- plenty of evidence that being too skinny here can cause the bore to bell-mouth and cause accuracy issues. I've seen this using precision gage pins...
If it's to be able to swap an existing 3/4" suppressor to another rifle, many manufacturers offer QD mounts that will index off the muzzle rather than using a shoulder- just did one last week because of the same situation with having inadequate OD on a customer's sporter barrel.