Minimum muzzle diameter for 1/2x28 threads

Brakes are a different animal than suppressors, and I treat them as such when making these types of decisions.
I've installed brakes with minimal shoulders, using Rocksett to secure them rather than relying on torque where you'd crush the shoulder with the necessary torque.

This is plain geometry. A brake that's an inch or two long- is much more forgiving than a 10" long suppressor in an application where concentricity is critical. I still think a mount that indexes on the muzzle is the best option from a technical and aesthetic perspective.

JMO, YMMV.
Rocksett sounds like a fine idea but how do you remove a muzzle device after using it? Is there a solvent that will break it down?
 
I just looked this up a couple days ago on a machinist's reference and for 1/2x28 the minimum material requirement is ,600" dia.
"Minimum material requirement" for what, exactly- clearly, it isn't the major OD of the thread tenon- so what is it?
Machinery's Handbook, the machinist's Bible- has no references to gunsmithing, and this discussion is specific to that application.
 
"Minimum material requirement" for what, exactly- clearly, it isn't the major OD of the thread tenon- so what is it?
Machinery's Handbook, the machinist's Bible- has no references to gunsmithing, and this discussion is specific to that application.
It's the recommended shoulder, aligns with the TB data I linked to above.
 
I should have been more clear in my statement. My info came from the product page for A.P.A.'s "The Answer" brake. "This brake is meant for smaller barrels from AR-15s to hunting rifles. We recommend a barrel diameter of .600-.750 inches for this brake." Right or wrong, I made the assumption that this minimum material condition would apply to any situation regarding the 1/2x28 threading on a cylindrical object.
 
^^^
10-4.
What's missing from consideration in that, is the groove diameter of the barrel.
That works out to .050 shoulder with a 1/2" brake on a .600 barrel- which is adequate for brakes.

However, the barrel wall thickness remaining beyond the thread minor diameter is a critical consideration.
Whole 'lotta difference between a .338 and a .22 cal. in terms of how much steel is left after threading a 1/2" muzzle

Muzzles that have barrel wall thickness that is too thin often get "bell-mouthed"- where the bore is enlarged due to inability to take the pressures. It's real, I've measured it with gage pins. LRI states it as well on his website, if ya don't want to take my word for it:


Honestly it's easier to just have a new barrel screwed on by the time I've had to have it threaded then go find an adapter.
Your rifle, your call. This really isn't complicated- they probably already have a mount that will index on the muzzle.
$75-$100 to have it threaded plus the cost of the mount, versus the cost a new barrel. Not even close $$-wise.
 
"What's missing from consideration in that, is the groove diameter of the barrel.
That works out to .050 shoulder with a 1/2" brake on a .600 barrel- which is adequate for brakes.

However, the barrel wall thickness remaining beyond the thread minor diameter is a critical consideration.
Whole 'lotta difference between a .338 and a .22 cal. in terms of how much steel is left after threading a 1/2" muzzle

Muzzles that have barrel wall thickness that is too thin often get "bell-mouthed"- where the bore is enlarged due to inability to take the pressures. It's real, I've measured it with gage pins."

agreed... I just went thru this ordering a brake relative to the external diameter and forgetting to consider the bore diameter. 1/2x28 is too, too small a thread for a 9.3 (.366) bore on a .600 dia, barrel. caught my mistake before it got made, LOL!!
 
Was just following through conversation may I ask a question a 7mm08 at 3000fps will a suppressor actually do anything? Thanks
 
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