Should I Reload

[BOBinWA]

As I said in my intro, I am a long time hunter and shooter, but just getting into long range shooting. I plan on putting together an out of the box long range rig later this spring for me to "test the waters" with so to speak.

I don't handload so what I'm thinking is, is it likely to get a 1/2 minute gun out of the box with factory loads ... how much can I expect to shrink my groups with tailored loads ... should I start handloading first, etc.

Question is how much am I depriving myself by not reloading?

Any advice is much appreciated.

Bob

 

[Barrelnut]

Nothing wrong with setting up an out of the box long range rig, buying some ammo and going out and having fun to see if you like it. A 1/2 MOA rifle with factory ammo is not that easy though. LR takes lots of practice and bullets down range. So doesn't take long for reloading to start paying for itself. Plus the more you try to build on your LR abilities you will soon learn the reloading is essential to LR precision.

If you want a good out of the box rig AND factory ammo to get started. There is probably NO better choice than a Savage LRP rifle in 6.5 Creedmoor. If there was an off the shelf rifle and factory ammo that would consistently do 1/2 MOA, it would be this combo.

This is not a 1K elk rifle obviously, but is a very accurate LR setup for target/deer/etc.

Hornady makes very good match grade ammo at a reasonable price for the 6.5 Creed. Save the brass and when you are ready to start reloading, you got a pile of brass ready.

Good Luck. It is both addictive and fun.

 

[HARPERC]

Some good factory rifles, and ammo available, the 6.5 Creedmoore is one combo. Getting one that shoots 1/2 MOA out of the box consistently at 100 yards, is not common, but not beyond belief.

What is more difficult in my experience, is finding factory ammo that holds velocity in as consistent shot to shot spread as your going to want for long range.

That said you can get a lot done, acquire brass, experience, break in, and fun without reloading.

Seems like I've asked, but where in WA are you?

 

[BOBinWA]

Barrelnut,
I've read a lot of good things about the 6.5 Creedmore, but I hunt elk each fall, so I'm looking at the 7mm RM or .300 WM. I've also heard good things about Savage rifles and one of the options I'm considering is their Savage LRH.

HARPERC, I don't live to far from you, near Pullman.

I know every rifle is a rule in itself, but on average can most rifles be helped with handloading? And if so, I guess I'm trying to get a feel for how much?

 

[wklman]

Most rifles I reload for usually go from 1.5-2 m.o.a. to 1/2-1 m.o.a. when I go from factory to reloading for them. Granted I usually do some other tweaking as well (glass bed the stock, free float the barrel, etc) to help the cause. So I'd say yes it's well worth getting into it.

 

[ShootnMathews]

Getting a factory rifle to shoot factory ammo at 1/2 MOA is not impossible but very unlikely. Most of my factory guns shoot 1.5" - 2.5" groups with factory ammo. I do have a 223 that shoots 1/2 MOA with factory ammo and the same ammo shoots 1/2 MOA in another friends 223.

As a general rule you're going to have to reload to get sub MOA performance out of a factory rifle. It's really more simple than it seems. Use quality components and you won't be disappointed.

I have a Savage LRH in 6.5-284 and am very pleased with it. It's a great shooting gun. It's the most accurate factory rifle I own. It was a little tough to get the right load worked up but now it shoots at custom rifle accuracy. Easily 1/2 MOA and I've shot several sub 1/4 MOA groups with it. I've shot a couple groups with it at 100 yards that look like just one 30 cal bullet hole. I am actually thinking if getting another LRH in 300 WM and shoot it for a while till the barrel is getting worn and then putting a custom match grade barrel of some sort on it.

Good luck

 

[HARPERC]

......HARPERC, I don't live to far from you, near Pullman.
..............................................................................................................

Not far at all, my daughter is in Asotin these days, I need to get down that way more often.

PM me if you want to get your feet wet reloading, without taking the high dive. My schedule gets a bit weird, but I've got time here, and there, but would help you when and where I can.

 

[MachV]

As I said in my intro, I am a long time hunter and shooter, but just getting into long range shooting. I plan on putting together an out of the box long range rig later this spring for me to "test the waters" with so to speak.

I don't handload so what I'm thinking is, is it likely to get a 1/2 minute gun out of the box with factory loads ... how much can I expect to shrink my groups with tailored loads ... should I start handloading first, etc.

It depends on how observant and if you are a perfectionist. 1/2 moa gun, ammo and shooter is kinda unrealistic, possible but ???

Question is how much am I depriving myself by not reloading?

If you reload for a hobby than there are worse hobbies but reloading is gonna cost you more than buying factory ammo!

Any advice is much appreciated.

Buy a rifle and ammo up to the task and have at it........When you have enough brass to think about reloading= think about reloading

Bob

It may sound like I'm talking you out of reloading but despite what everyone tells you its only as good or as cheap as the operator.

 

[Leslie Sapp]

Most rifles I reload for usually go from 1.5-2 m.o.a. to 1/2-1 m.o.a. when I go from factory to reloading for them.

This has been my experience, also.
I've progressed to the point that I often just buy brass and dies and never buy a single box of factory ammo for a new cartridge.

 

[johnnyk]

Bob,
The initial purchase of reloading gear and tools may set you back $2-300. Depending on the cartridge, the initial purchase of cases could run up to $120.00 (approx) for 100 pieces. This is about what I paid for the said amount of Lapua 6.5-284Norma brass. Good brass indeed. I think I'm on my 8th or 9th reload and have lost none, and I've pushed 'em. Well worth every penny, IMO. Other than the .338 LM, this is about the most expensive cartridge brass out there. Most other cartridges are much cheaper.
Bullets are usually less than $.50 ea. and expensive does not always equate to accurate. I have shot some of my better groups with Nosler Ballistic Tips, out to 700 yds. I haven't pushed them any further than that. The Hornady A-Max's (.264: 140gn & .308: 208gn) I have shot to 1600 & 1500yds, respectively. I shot a 10" group with the 140gn last summer. Hopefully the ELD-M and X's will be even better!
That's not record breaking but it's my best and with a factory rifle; 112BVSS. I swapped the BVSS stock for a VLP stock and had it glass bedded. The other rifle is also a 112BVSS in .300WinMag, a single shot with a Rifle Basix trigger and Witt Machine Co. muzzle brake added. As the commercial says, "This is not your father's Savage"!

1/2" MOA possible with factory rifle and factory ammo? Not sure, I haven't bought any in over 30yrs but I've got my doubts. Depends on the rifle and ammo I suppose. 1/2" MOA possible with a factory rifle and handloads? Barring nothing mechanically wrong with the rifle (i.e., bedding problems with the action or barrel, etc.) I'd be surprised if it wouldn't. Just my opinion(s)
JohnnyK.

 

[BOBinWA]

Thanks for the replies. I appreciate all the real world numbers you guys have seen.

The 1/2 minute gun example is just my goal. I don't expect that out of the box, but wouldn't cry if I found one.

MachV I'm about where you stated with my old .30-06. It's a solid 1 1/4" gun and used to get 1" groups with a Federal factory load I haven't seen in years. I have lots of brass for it. I plan to stretch it as far as I can while I'm putting another rig together.

Keep the info coming. It is much appreciated and is getting me motivated to get out and shoot some!

 

[scrmblr1982cj8]

I would definitely recommend reloading if you want to be able to customize your ammunition to your specific rifle or if you want to save money shooting.
I can make rounds that match Federal Gold Medal Match for less than $0.50 per round. I buy used NATO brass (500 rounds for $49.99) 168g SMKs (100 for $29.99) powder ($24.99 for 7700g) and primers (1000 for $19.99). A box of FGMM is at least $29.99 for 20. Catch a sale, and the cost goes down even further.

I love the fact that I can find the most accurate combo for a specific gun. FGMM works well in most .308's, but by making mine a little bit longer, I get better accuracy out of my rounds.

I can make ammo any time I want to. I don't have to depend on a store having the particular ammo I want.

The reasons go on and on…

 

[NMcCullough]

This has been my experience, also.
I've progressed to the point that I often just buy brass and dies and never buy a single box of factory ammo for a new cartridge.

Right there with you! Most of my rifles have never seen factory ammo

 

[roninflag]

if you want a 1/2moa rifle, an lrp, sender or 5-r would be some choices. better yet get a rem 700 long range or sendero and add a Krieger barrel. then you have a real good chance.