should i glass bed my guns?

When I bedded my rem 700 I also covered the sides and bottom of the recoil lug with tape.
When I did mine I read up widely about different methods, I would say all of them said to tape the bottom of the lug and most said to tape the sides as well.
The general consensus was that the only place the lug should touch is the back surface.

This is from the Hi-tech specialities site Welcome to High Tech Specialties, Inc.!!!

Another home done site How to Glass Bed Your Remington Rifle

I was nervous when I did mine but it turned out well, I used the acraglas gel kit and it was easy to use.

Stu.
 
Most people would tell you that glass bedding your guns is a good thing. While this is true, I believe in keeping things simple. My .308 prints sub moa groups as is. There for I will leave it alone. My .223 will put a whole box of 40 grain vmax into one ragged hole. I won't bed that one either. Now with that said, if your gun isn't giving you the performance you desire, depending on the cause of the problem, bedding it may be a possible solution.
 
After talking with a couple of experts I think I will be able to leave mine the way it is.
 
can anyone explain to me what glass bedding does, i have heard that it is good for wood stocks to stop swelling when wet or in high humidity so does that mean that synthetic stocks dont need it, and does that negate the benifits of a free floating barrel, im confused and new to the serious target shooting and hunting sport, so if anyone can help please do thx a million:)
 
can anyone explain to me what glass bedding does, i have heard that it is good for wood stocks to stop swelling when wet or in high humidity so does that mean that synthetic stocks dont need it, and does that negate the benifits of a free floating barrel, im confused and new to the serious target shooting and hunting sport, so if anyone can help please do thx a million:)

First off we need to define synthetic. None of this applies to plastic stocks. They are too soft to be of much value accurizing and epoxy will not adhere to them adequately.

Bedding can do 4 important things to any apropriate stock:
1. Provide a nearly perfect mould of your barreled action in the stock.
2. Improve the rigidity/stiffness of the stock.
3. Dampen vibrations that occur under the stress of firing.
4. Inhibit the effect of moisture and temperature on point of impact.

I discuss this in some detail in our Tech Support pages: StockysStocks.com (MBI, Inc.) accurize

Free floating is a completely separate issue. A barrel may be free floated with or without epoxy bedding.

Aluminum bedding is almost as good as epoxy bedding, it is a way to get more precision mating of the receiver surfaces in the stock that is less prone to the compression that occurs under firing stress. It also allows a more solid lock between the receiver and the stock, therefore reduces the amount of movement of the barreled action in the stock.

Quoting myself, "Every time you pull the trigger about 60,000 PSI of force inside the barrel is trying to tear it all apart. When everything settles back together an instant later, it had better settle back in the same spot or no matter what you do, no matter how steady your hold or how concentric your bullets, the next shot will not be pointed to the same place as the last. When the trigger is pulled again and again and again the entire process should take place in a manner as identical to the first shot as possible. And it should do the same next year! The barrel should vibrate the same, the action flex the same and the resting point of it all be the same again and again; season after season. rain, snow or shine."

That about sums up a stock's accuracy potential, the less the components move in relation to each other under stress, the more likely the next shot will go thru the same hole as the last one. This is #1 and #2 above.

Point number 3, vibration, is why some folks like to free float their barrels. After about 30 years and at least that many sporting rifles that I have experimented with, brings forth the conclusion that free floating barrels is highly overrated. I have not seen a sporter that shot it's best with the widest variety of loads when it's swinging free.

Adequate, yes, several. However it will shoot at least as well bedded with a wider variety of loads. Bedding the barrel for 100% even, pressure-free contact has been the recipe so many times for me that I do it routinely when a gun just won't shoot.

Weatherby and Remington kinda' agree. They spec barrel dampening pressure pads in the forends of all their hunting riflestocks. Your Weatherby accuracy guarantee is void without it. Yes thick, short barrels will shoot as well as they will shoot free floated, match after match after match. They do this because they are stiffer and dampen vibration by their very nature.

Light, long hunting barrels, especially magnums, can use their stock to accomplish this. I know there's a bunch of folks that will shoot bragging groups with their free floated sporters. But I'll bet they haven't tried barrel bedding it.
 
Last edited:
Thanks i that pretty much answered my questions. but heres a few more

1. So if i understand correctly, a heavyweight barrel (bull barrels) will by themselves dampen vibration, so a gun with a heavy barrel, will benifit more by fully bedding the gun ie the action and the barrel so both can be secured to the stock ensuring a repeatable result for a long time.

2. For firearms with non wood stocks you have to use a metal bedding block, (i have quite a bit of experience with fiberglass i used to make fairings for harley davidsons from glass and carbon fibre ) but i digress, its like nailing jello to the wall trying to epoxy something too fiberglass without scoring the surface enough to allow the chemicals to soak into the fibreglass and have a greater surface area and (bite), even then its unreliable because of the differences in resins and catalysts, some two part glues will react violently(catch on fire) with resin even after it cures, or be unreliable . So that makes sense,

3. So Bed wood with epoxy and non wood stocks with metal, because when scoring the glass it will be impossible to do it evenly on both sides and having more bedding on one side than the other, will make one side cure before the other and be bad right?

4. Is aluminum the best choice for a block?, most parts on the gun are steel. scince aluminum and steel heat and cool at different rates therefore contract and expand at different rates (any aluminum Anealed or not expands more than steel). wont that affect accuracy when the gun gets hot? then possibly crack the stock? If the bedding should be as snug as possible so it doesnt flop around, wont that leave no room for the aluminum to go? something has to give, are these reasonable concerns or am i just being crazy? thank you for your help, im sorry being im such a pain:D but i like to understand things as best as possible, thanks again gun)any expertise would be appreciated and if i got any of this wrong please set me straight. I'd rather be way off on "paper" than in practice im not gonna do this to my .22 mag because its great as it is, my 2- 2 1/2 in groups at 200yds are **** good if i do say so myself, im sure it can do better but as of yet.... i cant
 
Great questions!

1. So if i understand correctly, a heavyweight barrel (bull barrels) will by themselves dampen vibration, so a gun with a heavy barrel, will benifit more by fully bedding the gun ie the action and the barrel so both can be secured to the stock ensuring a repeatable result for a long time.

No, just the opposite. A light barrel potentially benefits more from bedding because it vibrates more.

2. For firearms with non wood stocks you have to use a metal bedding block, (i have quite a bit of experience with fiberglass i used to make fairings for harley davidsons from glass and carbon fibre ) but i digress, its like nailing jello to the wall trying to epoxy something too fiberglass without scoring the surface enough to allow the chemicals to soak into the fibreglass and have a greater surface area and (bite), even then its unreliable because of the differences in resins and catalysts, some two part glues will react violently(catch on fire) with resin even after it cures, or be unreliable . So that makes sense,

Don't have to. In fact we have a new line-up of aluminum bedded laminates arriving very soon. Aluminum is harder and can be machined more accurately than wood so provides a better mating surface. (Ditto epoxy, but it's more work and many guys don't want to do it.) Plus you can torque the screws tighter in an aluminum bed than wood or even raw fiberglass.

Common bedding epoxies like Acraglas don't seem to react to the metal (I have aluminum skim-bedded rifles and years later and they look like the day I bedded them.)

3. So Bed wood with epoxy and non wood stocks with metal, because when scoring the glass it will be impossible to do it evenly on both sides and having more bedding on one side than the other, will make one side cure before the other and be bad right?

Nope. I typically undercut (i.e. dovetail) areas I am about to add glass in to get a mechanical lock with the epoxy. The thickness of the epoxy we are laying does not affect the curing time appreciably. When laying in more than about 1/2" thick I have seen the dreaded thermal reaction take place but I don't do this on a gunstock. Takes about an ounce of epoxy in a single 'cup' to get it overly thermolytic - too hot. I doubt this would affect a wood stock but may damage composites. Best not to do it at all, just don't lay it in too thick!

To get a better understanding consider this: Epoxy chemically 'sticks' to nothing (except itself IF applied while previous epoxy is still tacky), it cures to become an inate polymer (plastic). The adhesion comes from a process called 'keying', a molecular-level process that is identical to inserting a key in a lock. Therefore the more porous the surface the better it keys. As mentioned I add my own 'keyholes' with a Dremel or drill bit.

4. Is aluminum the best choice for a block?, most parts on the gun are steel. scince aluminum and steel heat and cool at different rates therefore contract and expand at different rates (any aluminum Anealed or not expands more than steel). wont that affect accuracy when the gun gets hot? then possibly crack the stock? If the bedding should be as snug as possible so it doesnt flop around, wont that leave no room for the aluminum to go? something has to give, are these reasonable concerns or am i just being crazy? thank you for your help, im sorry being im such a pain:D but i like to understand things as best as possible, thanks again gun)any expertise would be appreciated and if i got any of this wrong please set me straight. I'd rather be way off on "paper" than in practice im not gonna do this to my .22 mag because its great as it is, my 2- 2 1/2 in groups at 200yds are **** good if i do say so myself, im sure it can do better but as of yet.... i cant

I suppose steel would be ideal but it'd weigh too much! Actually, I'd like aluminum better anyway as the harder steel of a receiver tends to settle into it over the years. Any differences due to temperature would be much smaller than normal production tolerances rendering them negligible under normal use.

The debate would be between epoxy and aluminum, one could make a good case for either (or both as mentioned). Either are more accurate than machined wood or even fiberglass lay-up stocks. McMillan (fiberglass stocks) for example, requires their stocks to be epoxy bedded and charges extra to ship one so done.

Versus Bell & Carlson and H-S Precision: they embed CNC machined aluminum so additional bedding is not a requirement or even recomended in most cases. Their goal is a 'drop-in stock' that shoots extremely well out of the box. Plus their bedding blocks extend from the grip to the forend tip, therefore have the additional benefit of reinforcing the stiffness and theoretically the out-of-box accuracy potential.
 
Last edited:
thanks for all your help, im glad i asked the question, and came to the right place.

Do you have to use gunsmithing epoxies or are autobody grade products like duraglass good enough or do you not want to mess around with stuff that isnt proven,

And what type of aluminum do you use have you played around with different types annealed or not? do you know if a 2024 is better than say a 6061 or a 7075 ? and what about titanium, is that going to make a difference or is what we can do with glass and aluminum about as far as you can push it? i mean how much better than .5 MOA can you go?

One more thing floating barrel or bedded, in my last post i didnt ask the right question

A heavy bull barrel by itself resists vibration so it wont vibrate when shot, so that it cant hit the stock, so it wont affect the returnable zero of the barrel so bedding wont affect the vibration hence the zero of the barrel. A thin barrel needs to vibrate right? Thats the whole point of free floating. when a shot is fired the barrel moves about a little bit and if it hits the stock, it might not do the same thing everytime affecting the reapeatability of the gun, and the return to the "zero" the natural resting point of the barrel.

So they channel the stock out to give the barrel enough room to move about and zero every time.

It seems like bedding the action is always a good idea and depending on the barrel type you should free float ( or leave it that way, alot of the guns ive looked at are floating barrels) or fully bed the gun.

It seems like they both do a good thing, the barrel type should really dictate what you do, not bias of some sort.

Has there been any research on this if anyone knows of it id like a i link thanks :)
 
thanks for all your help, im glad i asked the question, and came to the right place.

Do you have to use gunsmithing epoxies or are autobody grade products like duraglass good enough or do you not want to mess around with stuff that isnt proven,

I always use Brownells Acraglas for rifles as it's been in the market for about 40 years. the GEL version is easiest to work with.

And what type of aluminum do you use have you played around with different types annealed or not? do you know if a 2024 is better than say a 6061 or a 7075 ? and what about titanium, is that going to make a difference or is what we can do with glass and aluminum about as far as you can push it? i mean how much better than .5 MOA can you go?

I have not. Bell & Carlson uses 6061-T6.

One more thing floating barrel or bedded, in my last post i didnt ask the right question

A heavy bull barrel by itself resists vibration so it wont vibrate when shot, so that it cant hit the stock, so it wont affect the returnable zero of the barrel so bedding wont affect the vibration hence the zero of the barrel. A thin barrel needs to vibrate right? Thats the whole point of free floating. when a shot is fired the barrel moves about a little bit and if it hits the stock, it might not do the same thing everytime affecting the reapeatability of the gun, and the return to the "zero" the natural resting point of the barrel.

It's a matter of mass (weight). Barrels don't 'need' to vibrate, they unfortunately do. If they did not vibrate at all we'd get better results. Picture a rifled hole drilled in a 2X2X2 foot block of homogenous steel. If the cartridge components were perfect (zero standard deviation) all bullets would go (hypothetically of course) through the same hole if fired in a vacuum.

If you ever get a chance mess around with some tuning forks. Much harder to get big ones to ring that small ones.

So they channel the stock out to give the barrel enough room to move about and zero every time.

Can't make flat statements like this. Free-floating is one way to get acceptable results if everything else is OK. As mentioned I do not prefer to have free floated barrels on any of my rifles, sporters or varminters. I'm not a benchrester shooting super-heavy rifles, nor am I shooting an expensive custom receiver, I am a long range hunter playing with standard factory components mostly, but I may have a custom barrel installed on the occassional blueprinted receiver. I have worked with several sporter and varmint-weight, factory standard units that shot well under 1/2 MOA full-length (incl barrel) bedded. And they do it with a variety of loads when set up right.

It seems like bedding the action is always a good idea and depending on the barrel type you should free float ( or leave it that way, alot of the guns ive looked at are floating barrels) or fully bed the gun.

I bed them all full-length, that is, if I bed them at all. More recently I simply screw on a B&C Medalist or H-S Precision stock and get great results for the most part, if it won't shoot in one of those stocks I dump it. If it does (and the vast majority do) I can always attempt to improve it via epoxy bedding at some future date. This is more due to time constraints however. When I am serious I full length bed them regardless, especially if I want a wood stock like a thumbhole. No way I'd risk an expensive guided hunt or a once-in-a-lifetime tag on an non-bedded wood stock, laminate or walnut. That's one important variable under my control I'd want to eliminate when that first shot is make-or-break. Plus full-length bedding adds even more stiffness to the forend, and reduces/eliminates warpage if it's an extreme weather situation. I've been on several important hunts where there's one fellow in the bunch that misses a relatively shot for 'unknown' reasons. Bet this is one of them.

It seems like they both do a good thing, the barrel type should really dictate what you do, not bias of some sort.

Each rifle is a law unto itself. All we can do here is discuss theory. Then we have to reduce or elinimate every possible variable and experiment, changing only one thing at a time. I get the stock I want mounted in the condition I want it mounted in, mount an excellent scope with NO parallax at the yardage I am shooting, make sure all the screws are torqued where they need to be, trigger is adjusted correctly, make certain there is no copper or other fouling in the bore and head to the range with about 5 or 10 different loads. If they are good loads in other rifles (personally, Noslers are my baseline as I love to hunt with them and they seem to always shoot among the best) and it still will not shoot, I become very suspicous of the barrel quality and/or receiver trueness.

Some rifles would shoot sub MOA U-bolted to a 2X4, others are far more finicky. What I am saying is that a properly bedded rifle reduces the error introduced into the entire system due to the stock. There's still at least a dozen or more potential variables possible for the average shooter to address.

Has there been any research on this if anyone knows of it id like a i link thanks

I discuss pre-hunt rifle and shooter preparation online here: StockysStocks.com (MBI, Inc.) prepare

Tons more online. Google it!
 
Last edited:
Warning! This thread is more than 16 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top