Shortening a tiny pointed screw?

[entoptics]

Working on a buddies X-Mark Pro trigger. Before all the "Send it to sleep with the fishes!" comments, he's spending all his money on his 50 BMG, so no chance he'll buy a proper trigger anytime soon.

I've gotten it down to about 4lbs (from nearly 7lbs) after mining out the epoxy and adjusting the front screw, but I also had to back out the trigger screw about 3 feet. I wanna shorten that screw to be flush in the trigger. The screw is a headless allen type, with a point, and of course it's itty bitty.

Any recommended techniques? I have access to a great big lathe, as well as a smaller one. I thought about just using a chuck (drill press style), and trying to cut it back, then retapering the tip. It's just so danged small, I'm not sure how it will behave. It's also not a fiche part, so I'm worried about sourcing a replacement if I thrash it.

 

[Timeout]

Working on a buddies X-Mark Pro trigger. Before all the "Send it to sleep with the fishes!" comments, he's spending all his money on his 50 BMG, so no chance he'll buy a proper trigger anytime soon.

I've gotten it down to about 4lbs (from nearly 7lbs) after mining out the epoxy and adjusting the front screw, but I also had to back out the trigger screw about 3 feet. I wanna shorten that screw to be flush in the trigger. The screw is a headless allen type, with a point, and of course it's itty bitty.

Any recommended techniques? I have access to a great big lathe, as well as a smaller one. I thought about just using a chuck (drill press style), and trying to cut it back, then retapering the tip. It's just so danged small, I'm not sure how it will behave. It's also not a fiche part, so I'm worried about sourcing a replacement if I thrash it.

Reading this might help you. It won't turn an Xmark into a Jewell, but makes it useable in a hunting rifle. http://www.erniethegunsmith.com/

 

[LoneTraveler]

Have you taken the trigger apart and checked the sear contacts?
I always take a trigger apart and check the sears before I try to adjust a trigger.
If the sears are not sharp and smooth, Pull to pull can varies in pounds.

If it is a regular gun screw like 6-48 check Ace Hardware buy a new screw and keep the original unchanged.

 

[entoptics]

As much as anything, I'm trying to learn something new about machining/tinkering with tiny objects with this thread.

Regarding the tangential suggestions, I've already considered all of the above, but...

1) I'm not familiar with the trigger, and don't want to brick my buddies rifle cause I messed up dis-re-assembly.
2) The screw has a pointed end, so a random screw from Ace would need to be sharpened up in order to seat properly (Maybe not?).
3) Ernie's spring will take a little while to get here (he's probably gonna order it), and still doesn't address the one under the trigger, or the protruding screw.

 

[Timeout]

Pardon me for trying to help. I have used Ernie's springs in a couple of Xmark Pro triggers for friends and found no reason to back that screw out "3 feet". My limited experience would tell me that backing a trigger screw out that far is a no-no. My many years of mechanical and intermittent machine shop experience tells me that you will likely wind up doing the "gunsmith crawl" looking for that tiny screw when it takes off in an unknown direction. Without actually having the trigger in my possession to examine, I believe the more pressing issue is why did you had to back that screw out "3 feet". Sorry I can't help you with shortening the screw. Rather than being tangential, I shall return to minding my own business.

 

[26Reload]

Retool....
Chuck it up in a power drill and use sandpaper....
But i agree with statement above....
I found a box gun screws at a local ACE....mostly for scopes and bases I believe....but you may get lucky....
I wouldn't screwup the original.....could be costly....

 

[Gwine]

I have no experience with the Browning, but this is how I would attempt the screw shortening.
Not sure how deep the hex hole is. If it's deep enough to get a good purchase with the Allen wrench, I would cut a short section of Allen wrench that I could chuck up in a drill. Then epoxy the screw onto the Allen wrench. Heat should allow you to separate them later. Use a fine abrasive on a power tool of some sort, (dremel, die grinder). Spin in drill and remove material as needed. Steady hands...

 

[jdyoung]

Working on a buddies X-Mark Pro trigger. Before all the "Send it to sleep with the fishes!" comments, he's spending all his money on his 50 BMG, so no chance he'll buy a proper trigger anytime soon.

I've gotten it down to about 4lbs (from nearly 7lbs) after mining out the epoxy and adjusting the front screw, but I also had to back out the trigger screw about 3 feet. I wanna shorten that screw to be flush in the trigger. The screw is a headless allen type, with a point, and of course it's itty bitty.

Any recommended techniques? I have access to a great big lathe, as well as a smaller one. I thought about just using a chuck (drill press style), and trying to cut it back, then retapering the tip. It's just so danged small, I'm not sure how it will behave. It's also not a fiche part, so I'm worried about sourcing a replacement if I thrash it.

You haven't said how "itty bitty" that screw is , so this is what I have done.
I always keep a bunch of fired 22 cases around. Using a Dremel with cutting disk,( my Dremel operates by a foot pedal, makes lining things up easier), I cut the base off the 22 case a little shorter than the length of the screw , and cut a diagonal slot from end to end .
Vary the width of the slot so the altered 22 case will squeeze tight around the screw when chucked in a drill. Now I have a brass guard to protect the screw threads from the drill chuck jaws.

Chuck the screw encased in the brass guard in the drill leaving the amount of the screw you want to cut / taper stick out ( I count the threads). With the drill spinning, I again use the spinning Dremel to make the alterations on the screw. I have used any number of Dremel stones to do the job. Whichever one you are comfortable with.
You could get a replacement screw from the hardware store or on-line that is longer but the right size and thread pitch. Then using this method make it fit as you want without sacrificing the original.

Before I got a Dremel, I used heat shrink tubing on the screw to protect the threads. Small files can be used to alter the screw. Spinning in a drill and filing is slower , possibly in this case , slower may be better.

Measure, Patience, Steady hands, Patience !

 

[entoptics]

Gonna try and find a couple overly long screws of the correct size/pitch and play around with these suggestions tomorrow.

The screw is pretty small, haven't measured it yet, but way smaller than a 22LR. But fusing it to an allen wrench, and/or fashioning a collet sounds like solid ideas.

 

[Wedgy]

Just in case you screw it up you can get a another trigger for $20

Remington 700 X-Mark Pro Trigger | eBay

Remington 700 X-Mark Pro Trigger . Condition is Used. Shipped with USPS Priority Mail.

www.ebay.com

 

[ntsqd]

Done some work like that. What I do is chuck up a small remnant and drill thru it *just* big enough for the Allen key. Then drill & bottom tap for the screw size, going only as deep as needed to hang onto the screw.

Thread it in backwards, drive socket first and run it to bottom. Then make the mods to the end that you need to. When done if it won't just unscrew put the rem back in the chuck reversed and use the Allen key to break it loose.

 

[freddiej]

I thought about not putting my 2 cents in but I could not help myself...
Remington might have been smart and used an off the shelf set screw. I have not had one of the X-mark or pro triggers in my shop for a long while. I forget what the set screw is, but I am guessing it will be a #5-40 with a 1/16" hex in it. if that is true then you can pick up a replacement set screw through MSC Industrial via MSCDirect.com. PN# 02315653 (1/4"), PN# 99752487 (3/16") or PN# 02314656 (1/8") the problem is that you have to buy 100 of them in a small box. $70.50 for the box. they will be pointed like the original and they will be grade 8.

 

[itchy]

How about this?

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[Captain Bravo]

This may be a moot point now, but it sounds like a cone point set screw. Should be available in hardware stores in standard sizes. Metric (at least in my area) can be a little harder to find.

I'd probably try to shorten it if it were me, but if you end up needing a replacement, this may help.