sheared base screws

[kbrezlin]

I have used JB Weld on all my one piece bases to glue them in place. Like has been said a little heat and a tap with a block of wood removed the one that I needed to get off. I first did this on my Encore barrel bases to take up the space in the front where the barrel starts to taper.

 

[Matt Moser]

If you have a mill to indicate things exactly yes, you can do it yourself.

if this is foren to you, do yourself a favour and pay someone with the right tools to do this.

im not passing judgment your your skill sets, I'm sure you have Good skills in a certain area so if this is not your comfort zone do your thing to make some money and trade it with a smith.

just my opinion tho.

good luck

 

[VLD Pilot]

Good screws and bed the rail but clean both surfaces so it glues the rail as well. Heavy optic, light rifle high recoil and good brake with high exit pressure do this. I like to epoxy and pin rails for this kind of stuff.

I do the same thing. It tends to make people cringe when they think about epoxying a base rail to an action. Heating it really makes the glue soft and loosens the rail. No issues. I go one step further. I use a Dremel disc and cut an X between both screw holes on top of the action. Deep enough to make the epoxy grip better. I do the same on the underside of the pic rail. Again makes many people cringe but you never see those scores in the action of rail but they do make a difference. Pinning and 8/40 screws help if you want to tap larger.

 

[redneckdan]

I epoxy bed/glue all my scope rails. I prefer 8-40s if given the option.

 

[Buck Fever]

Regarding that extended recoil lug stoping the rail from moving, the old Remington Mohawk already had them last century! Nothing new here.
Regarding Kimber, their factory screws are 8-40 already so that is half the problem solved and can explain why they would not break.

That's pretty cool, I was unaware of the Mohawk recoil lug and I'm surprised it never made it on the 700.

Practically speaking, the ARC recoil lug is available new today at a pretty reasonable price so it's still the inexpensive way to add that feature.

 

[Edd]

Why not put locating dowels around the screws?

 

[redneckdan]

Why not put locating dowels around the screws?

Interesting idea.

 

[Buck Fever]

In a tube style receiver like a Remington 700 or Savage 110, I don't think there is enough meat in the receiver to make a seat for that dowel and leave enough thread for the base screw.

If you are going to machine it, I would rather just go to #8 base screws and a pin or base with recoil lug.

 

[25WSM]

They should just put a 1/4-28 in each end of the base and call it good.

 

[Edd]

In a tube style receiver like a Remington 700 or Savage 110, I don't think there is enough meat in the receiver to make a seat for that dowel and leave enough thread for the base screw.

If you are going to machine it, I would rather just go to #8 base screws and a pin or base with recoil lug.

You can sacrifice one thread on an 8-40 screw and have a wall about .040" tall at the front and rear of a 17/64" OD dowel. I think that would work.

 

[bigngreen]

That type of dowel doesn't have much shear strength they are great for locating gaskets and maintaining them centered on the hole, I've never seen that type of dowel used in a shear location or a place to locate parts while bolts clamp.

 

[live2huntmt]

*Update*
I got my rifle back from my gunsmith with its new 8-40 screws(no pins). It is currently curing with Acra Glass Gel bedding the rail with NO release agent on the action...this is the the worst feeling in the world! I hope I don't regret this later!

 

[25WSM]

Just pin it. I use a #31 drill bit in a drill press. Drill right through the base into the receiver. Don't go all the way through the receiver. I usually put them right between the mounting screw holes. After drilling this .120 diameter hole take an 1/8 drill bit and cut a few pins from it with a cutoff wheel. This is .005 bigger than the hole you drilled. One drop of red locktite and tap the pins in. A small chamfer on the bottom of the pin helps it start in. Practically anyone can do this. These pins are much stronger than screws. I do all my actions like this. Go to 8-40 screws and pins. All on a bedded base. No more problems.
Shep

 

[new2mud]

*Update*
I got my rifle back from my gunsmith with its new 8-40 screws(no pins). It is currently curing with Acra Glass Gel bedding the rail with NO release agent on the action...this is the the worst feeling in the world! I hope I don't regret this later!

I know the feeling, but trust us—it isn't as permanent as you fear. Worst case it can be removed with some heat. Even without release agent.