Shavings when seating bullets

Zerk

Don't worry about buying a new die for now, and just try trimming and deburring your cases. The VLD inside deburring tool has a 22 degree chamfer and greatly eases bullet seating.

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/4...CBS-_-435351&gclid=CLfju8Wk1NMCFYlXDQodkU8AvA

Also if your bullets tilt when seating it can also cause problems because the seater plug doesn't fit the bullet.

The average expander is approximately .001 smaller than bullet diameter. "BUT" Whidden custon die website sells expander kits with five expanders, the expanders range from bullet diameter to .004 under. The reason for this is neck thickness, hardness and brass spring back after sizing and controlling bullet grip.

Bottom line, your problem should go away if you simply trim and deburr your cases.
 
I know I need a trimmer. I was just waiting and thinking about a fancy one or not.

Funny neck sized ones were fine. Maybe should reset up die too. I leave them in collet.

It does get tough getting Spitzers in. Not a lot of room for fingers. Maybe operator error.

Didn't notice with 243, but they are shorter. Only neck sized, cause only one 243. Multiple 30-06s.
 
Zerk

Don't worry about buying a new die for now, and just try trimming and deburring your cases. The VLD inside deburring tool has a 22 degree chamfer and greatly eases bullet seating.

https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/4...CBS-_-435351&gclid=CLfju8Wk1NMCFYlXDQodkU8AvA

Also if your bullets tilt when seating it can also cause problems because the seater plug doesn't fit the bullet.

The average expander is approximately .001 smaller than bullet diameter. "BUT" Whidden custon die website sells expander kits with five expanders, the expanders range from bullet diameter to .004 under. The reason for this is neck thickness, hardness and brass spring back after sizing and controlling bullet grip.

Bottom line, your problem should go away if you simply trim and deburr your cases.
I agree don't buy a new die yet . A square case mouth and a good chamfer may fix it .
 
I know I need a trimmer. I was just waiting and thinking about a fancy one or not.



.

Look at the Lee case trimmer. It is a hand tool that comes caliber specific for the stud and shellholder (about $10), and you also buy the cutter and the part that screws into the shellholder(name escapes me). You can mount the shellholder in a drill and trim the case. The stud will prevent it from cutting too short. You should be able to get completely set up for one caliber for less than $30, then just buy the shellholder and stud for the other calibers you load for (about $10 each). Simple, yet works very well. Then get a chamfer tool (deburring tool), and you will be set.
 
Any opinions on electric trimmers? I was thinking of splurging on, depending on price.
 
I was thinking about it. But watching videos, either crappy design, or dumb users. I would think you should be able to take one that is trimmed, that you save, stick it in and the then adjust to that. The video I watched the guy, trimmed, measured, repeat.

Are there any better than this? I would think you would want to either save some kind of set up, or stick a piece of brass in and adjust to it, like you do with seating depth.

***edit The Hornady manual one you can use an existing shell to set length.
 
I don't have the electric one. Never had a chance to use one. I have the Lyman table mounted one with the different pilots for the cases I reload for. I also have the Lee trimmers I described above for every caliber. I always use the Lee trimmer, because it is quick and easy (and accurate). You can't cut too much off, the stud bottoms out on the shell holder, and you can feel it stop cutting. I just chuck it in a rechargeable drill, and trim the cases over a garbage can. I can trim two cases with the Lee, in the time it takes to do one with the Lyman.
 
Frankford Arsenal Case Trim & Prep Center Review

Review on Frankford isn't great. It works as a prep center, with a trimmer for cost of other guys without trimmer. But not consistent.

I was hoping for something that you could use an old case, and set up to that. So they would all match that one ine future. For the sake of speed mostly.

Amazon has them for $130
 
I would buy a Little Crow Gun Works trimmer.

The next chamfering tool I buy will be a K&M 4° reamer.
 
I had the same bullet shaving problem when I began reloading bottle necked cartridges some 30 years ago. As was suggested buy a 22* VLD case mouth reamer and that should solve your problem, it did mine. I also take a phosphorus bronze brush 1-2 calibers to small and wrap it in 0000 steel wool making sure to form a doughnut like clump about 1/2"-5/8" down from the end of the brush then I put it in my 110v RCBS brass prep station and lightly polish and champher the case moth opening and inside neck area, you can also use a battery drill set on low RPM.
 
I run a brush inside too. I can't say for sure these one did. I didn't keep notes of when I started using brush. I sized and primed a lot of brass early on.


I have been reloading straight wall for a bit. Only bottleneck for a couple tears. I probably wouldn't even worry about this in a handgun.
 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HS7JEB4/?tag=lrhmag19-20

This doesn't look to expensive. I am wondering about setting up the length.

Are there any out there that you can save the set up and length, and switch between calibers?
You don't really need to do that. When ever you get a new batch of brass just go through the batch and measure them all , inspect as you go for bad ones , find the shortest case in the batch and set up the trimmer to cut that case to a square mouth removing the minimum amount of brass . Then just do all the remainder.
Job done . If batch to batch the case length varies a few thou it will make no difference .
However a Wilson case trimmer with Mic is settable to specific predetermined lengths .
 
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I ordered RCBS case prep for $100. Figure $25 for hand tool. Sound like an old man,but reloading has been hard on my body.

So will go and chamfer all my brass. Still need to get a trimmer. To be honest will probably do it after first round of shots. So far I am only shooting 100 yards, hunting 40.

So work on charges, and than will vary tehniques to see what I can bring out. I want to get some loads worked up, so I have somethigng ready for hunting, in case something happens. Maybe bear tag this September. Don't want to be shooting when baiting in August.






Do you chamfer handgun?
 
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