Shallow front pillar issue

The stock with the pillar slightly lower than the action is appropriate for benchrest rifles. Bedding between the pillar and the action is considered proper methodology. Back in the 80s, there was heated discussion on this issue where Metal on Metal contact could change vibration. Unless you are trying to achieve sub 3/8" groups, I don't know that it matters.

Public perception of the pillar having solid contact on the action has pushed methods for a long time, even having larger pillars with the contour of the action that really looks advanced.

I have pillars that touch the action and some that I bed over, they all shoot tiny groups. I skim coat bed every aluminum V Block type of stock that I have.
 
I don't see that as a "composite stock". That appears to be a basic Tupperware style plastic stock but I'm just going by the limited picture we have to view. Was the rifle advertised/presented by the MFG as having a free floated barrel? I've had numerous rifles (Ruger, Savage, Remington and Winchester) in the past that are not free floated from the factory and the stocks did in fact contact the barrel on most of them. I would personally spot bed the action/stock or send it back and cross your fingers they get you a better stock for it. Savage actually replaced a stock for me along with the bottom metal.
 
The fact that the barelled action does not center into the stock would bother me.You would have to remove material on one side and build up the other.If it you are able and knowledgable enough to do that then fix it yourself.I could fix mine and would in a heartbeat but I don't know your level of skill on stocks.
VinceMule's idea of skim bedding would make it as strong as a pillar and would be what I would do also.
If you have the skill to do then get to work but if not,send it back.
Just my opinion
Edit to add:For my brand new Remington 700 300 win mag I bought a Graybo Outlander stock but have not finished working up a load yet.
That would fix your problem.
 
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Kimbers version of stock bedding. Proper version below.

One of the McMillans invented stock pillars. Believe it was Gale. In any event, pillars were never intended to be used in place of epoxy bedding. NEVER. They were simply used to keep from crushing a stock.

The rifle shot 100% better after bedding (tight recoil lug). BTW, Kimber pillars are screwed in. Every one of my rifles (off the rack or not) is bedded like the last pic. I've "fixed" many that wouldn't shoot using this method and also shortening front base screw.

I don't have anything but sporters (25 or so) and many light ones (none over 8lbs). "System" just plain works.

Return the rifle if you're not comfortable working on it.
 

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Definitely looks like a typical "Tupperware " stock….these can work but not for getting the rifles full accuracy potential
These stocks need chucking in the wood stove…
I don't know what brand rifle you have…looks Savage-esque…so would most likely shoot well in a decent Boyd's or Bell and Carlson…
Putting your hopes in a cheapy stock is almost guaranteed to disappoint.
 
That stock doesn't look very conducive to an accurate rifle. Those highly skeletonized plastic factory stocks aren't even worth putting any effort into. If you don't want to sink any money into the rifle, I'd send it back if your not happy, or buy a replacement stock and send it to a smith for a propper bedding job and solve the problem.

Regarding bedding and pillars.... I've played with pocketing the aluminum front pillar on some of my bedding jobs to relieve the action contact with the pillar. The thought behind this is the aluminum pillar expands and contracts which can change how the action sits in the bedding, and the contact the lug has with the stock. I've had great results so far in my testing and may end up doing this for all bedding jobs. I attached a photo of one I did a few weeks ago.

The problem with bedding over the top of the pillar so there is a layer of bedding between the pillar and action, is, first off, it is usually pretty thin and can crack and break lose. The top of the pillar needs to be cleaned, media blasted and prepped to ensure max bedding adhesion, and even after that, I've had it crack. If you wanted to use this method, I would want at least .125" of bedding over the top of the pillar to prevent it from cracking and separating.

IMG_7492.jpg
 
If it is a Tupperware or cheap stock immediately order a quality stock, replace, bed, and toss that cheap stock out. If it is not a cheap stock send it back. To me the cost is important. If this is a $1000+ rifle send it back. If it is a $400 rifle replace the crappy stock and get back to slinging lead. No one expects those cheap plastic stocks to perform. If it is one of those heavy duty browning composite stocks like they put on the speed I would send it back. Those stocks are typically fairly nice for something not fiberglass or carbon fiber.
 
This is not exactly what the OP is asking for but everyone is bringing up "Pillar Bedding" and thought this would be some good information for everyone reading this post. We have McMillan Competition Stocks and I have had discussion with Mcmillan about putting Pillars in and Bedding. McMillan Encourages Pillars and Discourages Bedding their stocks.



Hope "DLJ6" has the issues with his new Rifle FIXED!
Thanks Len & Jill
 
The stock with the pillar slightly lower than the action is appropriate for benchrest rifles. Bedding between the pillar and the action is considered proper methodology. Back in the 80s, there was heated discussion on this issue where Metal on Metal contact could change vibration. Unless you are trying to achieve sub 3/8" groups, I don't know that it matters.

Public perception of the pillar having solid contact on the action has pushed methods for a long time, even having larger pillars with the contour of the action that really looks advanced.

I have pillars that touch the action and some that I bed over, they all shoot tiny groups. I skim coat bed every aluminum V Block type of stock that I have.
I made pillars for my rifle and contoured the ends to match the round action. It seems very solid.
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The older benchrest gunsmiths would never put a pillar in contact with an action. Some insisted that it set up strange harmonics, and with their match winning rifles in the Nationals, they were listened to. Magazine pictures showing pillars in contact with the action has swayed readers that the opposite of the above is true. Whether or not it is true, I will leave to others with more experience. I consider that the stock which the pillars are installed in is of major importance. Anyone that is interested, you may want to contact Tom Meridith who is still in business and started out stocking most of Fred Sinclair's rifles. Some fiberglass stocks have a light fill where the action area could be compressed with a strong hand on the stock screws, thus the invention of glue in stocks started to eliminate stress on the action.

I have done both ways, and contoured pillars are impressive to look at making a lasting impression.

The issue of the pillar installation is just a small part of a number of issues that accuracy gunsmiths use to tune their rifles.

It is just my opinion, I believe that there is more to how vibration/harmonics in a rifle's final tune is set up by the stock. For this reason, I like McMillen Solid Fill stocks that are heavier, they use the same fill that is typically under the action, throughout the forearm and butt. I also love laminate stocks, in how easy they are to tune to very tiny groups, pillar bedded.

When bedding, it helps iso not just bed once, but to add a skim coat bedding after the first cure. This has long been a secret of some of the very best gunsmiths that are now dead.
 

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