I stand by that
Scope woes, an update!
- Thread starter Shubey
- Start date
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huntsman22
Well-Known Member
Shubes, you quoted hesse and provided the info he requested. Problem is NONE of that matters. The ONLY thing that means anything, is your zero range and the amount of 'up' elevation left on the erector after zero. You can't just randomly go changing zero ranges without knowing how much 'up' you have left. THAT, and only that, will determine if you need to cheat and use insert rings to max out your elevation. It is not determined by you choosing to buy them, or not..... And as to wasting ammo sighting in, you should learn how to adjust to POI and sight in, in 2-3 rounds.....
Thanks for clarity& your knowledge.
Then you do NOT need any of our help.
Ok...
Have one on me...I'm glad I was drinking beer when I read this thread......
BAKPAKR
Well-Known Member
When you say you were "able to zero" from the initial shots which were 15" high at 10 yards, are you saying you were able to move point of impact down 15" or even more than that, at 10 yards?
Yes,correct
BAKPAKR
Well-Known Member
Your scope apparently has an extraordinary amount of adjustment because it would take about 150 MOA down elevation to move, at 10 yards, from 15" high to POA. Then, with something like a 30-06 and 180 gr bullets, you would still have to go down another 10 MOA or so from that 10 yard zero to zero at 50 yards.
BTW - with that scope, and with the results you are reporting, you would be better off with a 0 MOA rail than the 20 MOA rail you have.
huntsman22
Well-Known Member
Not if he can zero it at the range he wants to.......
SDPlinker
Well-Known Member
Your 20 Moa rail will affect that at the very short range.
I think I moved elevation turret down 150to 175 clicks. This is why I started shooting at 10yds; then 50 ( which I took a lot of heat for,on this site). I,m new to long range shooting, so I appreciate help. Scope is Sightron Stac,3x16x42.
My next step is 100yds; then 200.
