Scope Remount After Action Removal?

Brydawg512

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Hello all,

I feel like I should know this...

If I remove my action/barrel from the stock and put it back in, do I have to remount scope and bubble level, or is it just a simple re-zero?

I'm assuming just a re-zero because the action and scope maintain the same relationship?

Thanks in advance.
 
Depends on your stock to barreled action's fit and if it's bedded, has an aluminum bedding block or pillars and your action screw's torque value. I'm not sure about the latest chassis "handles" that are out and being used for PRS & NRL. You definitely should shoot it and verify your zero did/did not shift.
I have synthetic (HS Precision) and wood laminates w/pillars and bedding jobs and each time I've removed mine I had to find the optimum torque for each one. Gives me a reason to load and shoot some more! :)
 
Depends on your stock to barreled action's fit and if it's bedded, has an aluminum bedding block or pillars and your action screw's torque value. I'm not sure about the latest chassis "handles" that are out and being used for PRS & NRL. You definitely should shoot it and verify your zero did/did not shift.
I have synthetic (HS Precision) and wood laminates w/pillars and bedding jobs and each time I've removed mine I had to find the optimum torque for each one. Gives me a reason to load and shoot some more! :)

It's just a stock Savage Accustock -- so you're saying if for some reason the action screws were torqued under spec from the factory and I retorque them at spec I need to remount the scope? Or would it just be my zero that is off?
 
Depends on your stock to barreled action's fit and if it's bedded, has an aluminum bedding block or pillars and your action screw's torque value. I'm not sure about the latest chassis "handles" that are out and being used for PRS & NRL. You definitely should shoot it and verify your zero did/did not shift.
I have synthetic (HS Precision) and wood laminates w/pillars and bedding jobs and each time I've removed mine I had to find the optimum torque for each one. Gives me a reason to load and shoot some more! :)
Sorry Johnny k but you are. Incorrect ..... see my post above
 
Sorry Johnny k but you are. Incorrect ..... see my post above

I did see your post and I don't think your answer was totally correct. Hence the reason for my post/opinion. Take it or leave it but don't say someone's wrong on here because they have a difference of opinion. I don't want to argue so move on.
 
Johnnyk it's gotta be tough being so sensitive....but if you don't believe me go test it yourself
 
If you did not remove the scope your zero will stay the same....

the scope and the barreled action are co-referenced to the target - has nothing to do with what you are using to hold on to it.

I pull my barreled action with scope attached and swap stocks often
Zero should be confirmed. Level relationship between scope and action shouldn't change but relationship to stock MAY, depending on fit and bedding.
 
Verify if for no reason other than to establish a base expectation. I have not had to re-zero after removing my bedded action. On that note I recently removed my scope from the rail and removed the rail. The rail is bedded as are the rings. Upon reinstalling the aforementioned pieces I verified zero and it was within an 1/8th minute at 200yds. If I were to remove and reinstall them again I would still check zero.
 
When I take my rifle out and/or the scope off (not out of rings). If I remount to the same torque specs, some times its dead on, sometimes it is a click or two off. But it is never far off. If you just hand tighten, totally different story, so I try to carry an adjustable brownells in/lb driver in my bag.
 
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