Once the copper was removed it shot great. I had never seen a barrel that fouled.did the gun regain some lost accuracy after all that copper was removed ?
Once the copper was removed it shot great. I had never seen a barrel that fouled.did the gun regain some lost accuracy after all that copper was removed ?
great to know. very interesting subject imoI was so impressed with KG12 Big Bore Cleaner, that I gave a bottle to a friend. A few days later, he told me how his fairly new M70 in 7 Mag, which had become inaccurate soon after purchase, had suddenly started shooting, again.
Copper fouling can definitely affect accuracy.
The gun will tell you if it is getting fouled too much but from what you have written how would you know? Factory rifles with hammer forged barrels are awful for building copper. Ruger seems to be the only domestic maker to get it figured out. Bore snakes. THROW THEM AWAY. They can get grit in the rope and scratch up your barrel!!! A good coated rod such as a dewey or tipton. I have a double barrel 50 cal muzzleloader. I had been using stainless rods like everyone else. I thought it would be good enough for it. Scratched it up bad. A 50 cal barrel is big enough you can see down into it and black powder barrels are soft steel. I use a good powder solvent to get the carbon out. Bore tech products are very good. Even old hoppes #9 works good for carbon. Then a good copper solvent. When your patches do not come out blue anymore all should be good. After you get it completely clean dry it and then a very light oil on a patch and coat the barrel and you are done. I do not know if you can get it in Turkey but I use Kroil. You can make your own with automatic transmission fluid and acetone or naphtha. 1 part oil and 2 parts solvent. Acetone works better but naphtha is safer. Use it where you have ventilation and no smoking. If you shoot a dry barrel it will strip off copper badly. I put it on a patch so you have a circle about the size of the end of your thumb and a fairly tight fitting patch. And if you are thinking about using Barnes bullets all the gilding metal fouling must be completely gone. The harder gilding metal will strip off the soft copper and you will have a mess and your barrel will be full of copper.how important is it for the rifle and its accuracy to remove copper from the barrel useing copper removal products ? does basic gun oil and a brush get most of it off ?
as l know alot of people that have not used copper removal oils and sprays at all in there rifles for 10s of years. some people l know use nothing but basic gun oil and a brush or just a bore snake. so the question is : say you have used a rifle for 10 years and didnt use any special copper removal porduct in it then decided to use a copper removal product to cleen the rifle, would it make a significant difference in accuracy at the end of the day ?
whats your take on the subject
Ruger must have it figured out, both of my Americans now take only about 6 to 8 patches soaked with Bore Tech Eliminator to clean out att the copper fouling. It took a few hundred rounds to smooth them out but they always shoot great.The gun will tell you if it is getting fouled too much but from what you have written how would you know? Factory rifles with hammer forged barrels are awful for building copper. Ruger seems to be the only domestic maker to get it figured out. Bore snakes. THROW THEM AWAY. They can get grit in the rope and scratch up your barrel!!! A good coated rod such as a dewey or tipton. I have a double barrel 50 cal muzzleloader. I had been using stainless rods like everyone else. I thought it would be good enough for it. Scratched it up bad. A 50 cal barrel is big enough you can see down into it and black powder barrels are soft steel. I use a good powder solvent to get the carbon out. Bore tech products are very good. Even old hoppes #9 works good for carbon. Then a good copper solvent. When your patches do not come out blue anymore all should be good. After you get it completely clean dry it and then a very light oil on a patch and coat the barrel and you are done. I do not know if you can get it in Turkey but I use Kroil. You can make your own with automatic transmission fluid and acetone or naphtha. 1 part oil and 2 parts solvent. Acetone works better but naphtha is safer. Use it where you have ventilation and no smoking. If you shoot a dry barrel it will strip off copper badly. I put it on a patch so you have a circle about the size of the end of your thumb and a fairly tight fitting patch. And if you are thinking about using Barnes bullets all the gilding metal fouling must be completely gone. The harder gilding metal will strip off the soft copper and you will have a mess and your barrel will be full of copper.
That is normal from firing rds down the barrel. Metal gets hot, washes away easier.Is this carbon or erosion?Tried soaking it and it didn't change.I think it's erosion.View attachment 176299View attachment 176300View attachment 176301
if it needs to shoot 200 to 300 rounds to get the gun to shoot straight again after cleaning it then why bother clean it. lol this doesnt make any sence. the barrel should shoot straight without any copper in it. it should not need 300 rounds down the barrel after cleaning to be accurate. everyone suggests something and something diferent Works for diferent people l guess.Ruger must have it figured out, both of my Americans now take only about 6 to 8 patches soaked with Bore Tech Eliminator to clean out att the copper fouling. It took a few hundred rounds to smooth them out but they always shoot great.
For copper fouling, I have alway used Sweets. Ammonia works great also.I was so impressed with KG12 Big Bore Cleaner, that I gave a bottle to a friend. A few days later, he told me how his fairly new M70 in 7 Mag, which had become inaccurate soon after purchase, had suddenly started shooting, again.
Copper fouling can definitely affect accuracy.