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Copper removal ?

I was so impressed with KG12 Big Bore Cleaner, that I gave a bottle to a friend. A few days later, he told me how his fairly new M70 in 7 Mag, which had become inaccurate soon after purchase, had suddenly started shooting, again.

Copper fouling can definitely affect accuracy.
 
I was so impressed with KG12 Big Bore Cleaner, that I gave a bottle to a friend. A few days later, he told me how his fairly new M70 in 7 Mag, which had become inaccurate soon after purchase, had suddenly started shooting, again.

Copper fouling can definitely affect accuracy.
great to know. very interesting subject imo
 
talk to a barrel maker like hart shilen and get there imput on this.they will give you a lot of adice on this cleaning matter.given a factory barrel I have seen them copper up and go south in shooting groups .
gary
 
how important is it for the rifle and its accuracy to remove copper from the barrel useing copper removal products ? does basic gun oil and a brush get most of it off ?

as l know alot of people that have not used copper removal oils and sprays at all in there rifles for 10s of years. some people l know use nothing but basic gun oil and a brush or just a bore snake. so the question is : say you have used a rifle for 10 years and didnt use any special copper removal porduct in it then decided to use a copper removal product to cleen the rifle, would it make a significant difference in accuracy at the end of the day ?

whats your take on the subject
The gun will tell you if it is getting fouled too much but from what you have written how would you know? Factory rifles with hammer forged barrels are awful for building copper. Ruger seems to be the only domestic maker to get it figured out. Bore snakes. THROW THEM AWAY. They can get grit in the rope and scratch up your barrel!!! A good coated rod such as a dewey or tipton. I have a double barrel 50 cal muzzleloader. I had been using stainless rods like everyone else. I thought it would be good enough for it. Scratched it up bad. A 50 cal barrel is big enough you can see down into it and black powder barrels are soft steel. I use a good powder solvent to get the carbon out. Bore tech products are very good. Even old hoppes #9 works good for carbon. Then a good copper solvent. When your patches do not come out blue anymore all should be good. After you get it completely clean dry it and then a very light oil on a patch and coat the barrel and you are done. I do not know if you can get it in Turkey but I use Kroil. You can make your own with automatic transmission fluid and acetone or naphtha. 1 part oil and 2 parts solvent. Acetone works better but naphtha is safer. Use it where you have ventilation and no smoking. If you shoot a dry barrel it will strip off copper badly. I put it on a patch so you have a circle about the size of the end of your thumb and a fairly tight fitting patch. And if you are thinking about using Barnes bullets all the gilding metal fouling must be completely gone. The harder gilding metal will strip off the soft copper and you will have a mess and your barrel will be full of copper.
 
Only remove all the copper if accuracy drops or if you have a particularly rough barrel and are "breaking it in". A quality aftermarket barrel won't need to be stripped of copper as often nor will it deposit as quickly. Boretech eliminator is my product of choice. I usually run 3-4 wet patches and let is soak for 15 min and then run another wet patch or one of their brushes soaked in boretech every 15 minutes 3x, so it sits in my barrels for ~45 min. Usually 2 cycles gives clean patches and unlike ammonia based solvents there is no risk of damaging your barrel by leaving it in too long.

If a rifle has been shot hundreds or thousands of rounds you MAY need to use something abrasive like JB's or Boretech chameleon, assuming you've tried a quality solvent and accuracy still hasn't returned. One of boretech's personnel explained this to me in detail.
 
Is this carbon or erosion?Tried soaking it and it didn't change.I think it's erosion.
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The gun will tell you if it is getting fouled too much but from what you have written how would you know? Factory rifles with hammer forged barrels are awful for building copper. Ruger seems to be the only domestic maker to get it figured out. Bore snakes. THROW THEM AWAY. They can get grit in the rope and scratch up your barrel!!! A good coated rod such as a dewey or tipton. I have a double barrel 50 cal muzzleloader. I had been using stainless rods like everyone else. I thought it would be good enough for it. Scratched it up bad. A 50 cal barrel is big enough you can see down into it and black powder barrels are soft steel. I use a good powder solvent to get the carbon out. Bore tech products are very good. Even old hoppes #9 works good for carbon. Then a good copper solvent. When your patches do not come out blue anymore all should be good. After you get it completely clean dry it and then a very light oil on a patch and coat the barrel and you are done. I do not know if you can get it in Turkey but I use Kroil. You can make your own with automatic transmission fluid and acetone or naphtha. 1 part oil and 2 parts solvent. Acetone works better but naphtha is safer. Use it where you have ventilation and no smoking. If you shoot a dry barrel it will strip off copper badly. I put it on a patch so you have a circle about the size of the end of your thumb and a fairly tight fitting patch. And if you are thinking about using Barnes bullets all the gilding metal fouling must be completely gone. The harder gilding metal will strip off the soft copper and you will have a mess and your barrel will be full of copper.
Ruger must have it figured out, both of my Americans now take only about 6 to 8 patches soaked with Bore Tech Eliminator to clean out att the copper fouling. It took a few hundred rounds to smooth them out but they always shoot great.
 
Ruger must have it figured out, both of my Americans now take only about 6 to 8 patches soaked with Bore Tech Eliminator to clean out att the copper fouling. It took a few hundred rounds to smooth them out but they always shoot great.
if it needs to shoot 200 to 300 rounds to get the gun to shoot straight again after cleaning it then why bother clean it. lol this doesnt make any sence. the barrel should shoot straight without any copper in it. it should not need 300 rounds down the barrel after cleaning to be accurate. everyone suggests something and something diferent Works for diferent people l guess.
 
I use Wipe Out or Patch Out.I never use a bore brush and after the barrels have been soaking for a couple hours run patches through until they come out clean.As far as barrels that get coppered up fast,I Dyna Bore coat them.If you do the treatment correctly ,the barrel will clean out by just pushing a few patches through.I have never known of any hammer forged barrel as being easy to copper foul.Savage barrels are noted for that and if you would ever bore scope one you would see why.
 
I was so impressed with KG12 Big Bore Cleaner, that I gave a bottle to a friend. A few days later, he told me how his fairly new M70 in 7 Mag, which had become inaccurate soon after purchase, had suddenly started shooting, again.

Copper fouling can definitely affect accuracy.
For copper fouling, I have alway used Sweets. Ammonia works great also.
 
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