scope problem

If you adjust elevation and the windage changes the chances are the scope reticle is not mounted vertical to the bore. Because of this slight off center positioning whenever you raise or lower elevation the windage will change according to the amount the scope is off. This is extremely prevalent with tactical scopes if not mounted perfectly level in relation to the bore. To check this at preferably 100 yards put up a target, take a well aimed shot at your zero, then raise the elevation to what would be a 400 or 500 yard shot. Carefully take another shot. The second shot (or group if you prefer) should be straight up from the first without any change in windage left or right. Bubble levels and bore sights will not be accurate enough to perfect vertical movement unless you are very lucky. I use bubble levels and a laser bore sighter to get close then make the final adjustment using a Barska Boresighter. It is a kit containing mandrels for the various calibers and a grid panel that attaches to the mandrel. It is adjusted for vertical using the cross hairs of the scope. If the scope is not exactly vertical the crosshairs will not line up with the grid. Adjust the scope so the crosshairs align up with the vertical grid lines and now you have a scope that should track perfectly up and down without chnging the windage. This is very important for those of you who shoot at long distances where a half inch of windage drift when going out to 1000 yards means a 5 inch difference in the point of impact.
thanks
 
If you adjust elevation and the windage changes the chances are the scope reticle is not mounted vertical to the bore. Because of this slight off center positioning whenever you raise or lower elevation the windage will change according to the amount the scope is off. This is extremely prevalent with tactical scopes if not mounted perfectly level in relation to the bore. To check this at preferably 100 yards put up a target, take a well aimed shot at your zero, then raise the elevation to what would be a 400 or 500 yard shot. Carefully take another shot. The second shot (or group if you prefer) should be straight up from the first without any change in windage left or right. Bubble levels and bore sights will not be accurate enough to perfect vertical movement unless you are very lucky. I use bubble levels and a laser bore sighter to get close then make the final adjustment using a Barska Boresighter. It is a kit containing mandrels for the various calibers and a grid panel that attaches to the mandrel. It is adjusted for vertical using the cross hairs of the scope. If the scope is not exactly vertical the crosshairs will not line up with the grid. Adjust the scope so the crosshairs align up with the vertical grid lines and now you have a scope that should track perfectly up and down without chnging the windage. This is very important for those of you who shoot at long distances where a half inch of windage drift when going out to 1000 yards means a 5 inch difference in the point of impact.
thanks
 
thanks will do
Good thought, however if the scope is set to the rifle bore, the scope does not change it's position, so if the scope is set to the rifle bore, it will go up and down in relation to the bore It doesn't matter. If bubble leveled it will not track true to the bore and will be off at all settings except the 100 yard zero.
 
I had the same thing on a brand new Leupold 6.5x20 VariX3 years ago. POI shifted left/right with elevation adjustment and up/down with windage adjustment. Couldn't get a zero at any yardage. Sent it back.
 
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Good thought, however if the scope is set to the rifle bore, the scope does not change it's position, so if the scope is set to the rifle bore, it will go up and down in relation to the bore It doesn't matter. If bubble leveled it will not track true to the bore and will be off at all settings except the 100 yard zero.
So very true. I have a SHV F1 that I was having fits setting up. I tried leveling off the rail to the top of turret, to the bottom of the scope, tried the plumb bob flash light method, leveled off the rail and the tang and nothing worked. I just ended up using a neighbors window to align it close and did a tall target test and fine tuned it from there.

For me it was a series of vertical lines I made with a 2' level with one horizontal towards the bottom. I would do a couple shots at my 100 zero then dial up 15-20 moa and do another couple on the same line. I then had to rotate the scope to get my impacts to stay inline vertically. I'd try again on a clean line and adjust again if needed. Hence multiple vertical lines. You will have to adjust windage to bring it back to zero (vertical line) but after a few rounds you should get it if it's aligned correctly. I did multiple vertical lines so I could make a couple of adjustments per relay at the range and I'm just too lazy to keep walking back and forth to the target.

It tracks now but the reticle looks real screwy because to my eye and others it looks canted in relation to my scope level. But at a 100 yds if I setup a grid on a blank target it appears true. Horizontal and vertical. I stretched out to over 700 and it does hold true dialing.
 
Not sure if he still does but Len used to sell a very handy gadget that fit in your pocket for leveling scopes and it worked dead nuts. For years I used a single bubble level and just aligned my verticle crosshair with the edge of a plumb building edge or utility pole but they aren't always available.

Check the LRH store.
 

these guys make large targets in mil or moa pattern. With a level, these are a great tool!
 
just wondering if you guys have an answer, A friend of mine has a scope i think its a hawke if he alters windage, his height of POI changes any thoughts as ive heard other shooters have had this
I up in no
just wondering if you guys have an answer, A friend of mine has a scope i think its a hawke if he alters windage, his height of POI changes any thoughts as ive heard other shooters have had this
Is the scope level with the action and is he holding it level?
 
No wind today (frosty) i can get out and try a few tests as i can drive less than 5minutes to where i can shoot out to 300 which would be further than we ever shoot i will post results later
 
Right guys this is what we done, my mates gun was zero 1" high at 100yds as he shoots only upto 200yds and he didnt want to alter it, so this is what i done i put a 24"x 3/4"verticle plumbed line at 100yds and 200 yds both bunches of shots hit the line so after talking him into altering the scope 20 clicks up it was shooting 3/4" left at 100yds my conclusion is the scope a hawke indurance is knackerd. although it shoots fine once zero is attained as long as you dont touch the dials
 
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