Scope Mounting Question

[Wedgy]

Go to 4:40 of the video and check your rail like Jeff does. Bed it for sure so you can eliminate any future issues. Clean the screw holes to get rid of any oil. Epoxy/JB Weld comes off easily with a little bit of heat and cleans up with carb cleaner. Tape off any parts you don't want to get epoxy on and wear gloves. Watch the video a couple times then do it.

 

[Hikinghunter]

Nice. Nothing like a YouTube set of instructions.

Another issue I found. The front screw hole is right over the barrel-to-receiver connection. You can look down in there and see the start of the threads. It's got some grit in it - maybe shavings from when they cut the chamber. Just blast it out with brake cleaner? I don't think q-tips will get it out. Would get brake cleaner down into the chamber, but I assume that won't hurt anything..

 

[skipglo]

Wouldn't putting on loctite then torqing down the screws put the base at level anyway? (incrementally, like a sane person, not cranking one screw down to full torque while the others are loose) I don't like the idea of the base actually bearing loctite. I just want to fill up the gaps so crud doesn't get in there.

It was an expensive base from a well known manufacturer....so whoever checks their bases...I always ASSUMED....they are machined level and square and just screw them on....right? Wrong...base was canted about 5 degrees! I never assume anymore.....had to be the THREE SCOPES I bought...sent back....got back weeks and weeks later..had to be the NEW GUN...kept moving THE *"&$ing base to different guns with the new scopes....sucks to be stupid! Hard lesson....just an FYI

 

[ntsqd]

Fairly common to see junk in that front hole. Gunscrubber may blast it out (wear your safety glasses!!!), otherwise you may need to use a dental pick.

One thing that isn't addressed in that video is side to side leveling of the base. He seems to assume that it will be correct. I used to, too. Then I had one that isn't. It tilts .015" in 6" The fault is the action, not the base. Production actions are hand polished, and there lays the problem. It isn't anything close to actually round even though it sure looks like it is.

Even J-B Weld when well prepped isn't that permanent. A sharp rap in the right direction (think shear and lifting) from a hammer on a brass drift will usually pop it loose. BT, DT.

 

[skipglo]

Wouldn't putting on loctite then torqing down the screws put the base at level anyway? (incrementally, like a sane person, not cranking one screw down to full torque while the others are loose) I don't like the idea of the base actually bearing loctite. I just want to fill up the gaps so crud doesn't get in there.

Sorry I only answered half your question.....lock tite or J.B. are an important back-up to doing just the screws....how often has anyone found one or both or all 4 screws loose.....lots...one of the.last things a person checks when accuracy goes.... because who wants to have to re-site the entire gun again.... especially at 10.00/Rd... secure the bases

 

[skipglo]

Go to 4:40 of the video and check your rail like Jeff does. Bed it for sure so you can eliminate any future issues. Clean the screw holes to get rid of any oil. Epoxy/JB Weld comes off easily with a little bit of heat and cleans up with carb cleaner. Tape off any parts you don't want to get epoxy on and wear gloves. Watch the video a couple times then do it.

Just one man's opinion here about the video and two things I don't agree with....again...just me...1) knocking the base loose after applying the epoxy defeats 1/2 the purpose of applying the epoxy in the first place 2) may have just been an oversight and not mentioned..... however...he did not mention cleaning the actual screw holes in the receiver to remove the wax applied to the screws which would stop the lock tite from adhering at all! .,..just me!

 

[Hugnot]

The JB Weld that I use is a permanent fix & only can be removed with abrasives or cutting tools.



There is no way I would want this stuff inside tapped holes, a tap would be needed to remove it. It can be worked like metal, drilled & tapped. Upon bedding a base to a rifle apply release agent to the receiver/action surface and a liberal amount onto screws & holes. The purpose of bedding is to make a conforming surface/contact between base & receiver so screw tension will not deform the base. Screw tension applied during the bedding process should be limited to an amount that will make a conforming surface/contact between base & receiver, like don't squeeze out bedding material & bend the base with excessive screw tension.

I use carburetor cleaner on screws & inside screw holes to clean up oils, grease, & crud before applying blue type thread locker.

The JB Weld shown has a tensile strength of 5500 psi and probably 7-8 times that compressive strength. It can handle 550 F temperatures - I have used it to make minor non-structural fixes on cast iron pots used to make nice eaties oven cooked at over 400 F. Ordinary common wax shoe polish like Kiwi works good as a release agent. The blue thread locker might come off by softening with hair drier heat then carb cleaner - don't use explosive fume carb cleaner with hair drier at same time - but JB Weld would be immune to a similar procedure.

JB Weld cold weld is great stuff for stock bedding. Avoid getting it onto any non release agent covered surface that is not intended to have a permanent coating of JB Weld.

Best to get a small package and go thru a learning process with scrap pieces before permanently attaching a base to a receiver or permanently plugging up screw holes.

 

[ntsqd]

That is the stuff that I've knocked loose. It IS good stuff, it's just not like if the parts were actually welded together and in a simple lap joint it can be separated. Wouldn't want it in threads either, that would be really bad.

Some degreasers are better than others at not leaving a film behind. In my days working in ultra high vacuum acetone wasn't good enough. Use it on a smooth enough surface and you can see the film it leaves behind. We used it, and then wiped again with Isopropyl Alcohol because the acetone film will be picked up by the IPA. Similarly I've found that the aerosol brake cleaners leave less film than the aerosol carburetor cleaners do. And GunScrubber is even better at not leaving a film. True commercial grade 1,1,1 was the best, but that is no more.

 

[Wedgy]

Be careful getting carb / brake cleaner of some stock finished as it can ruin the gloss or hydro dip.

 

[Hikinghunter]

Just one man's opinion here about the video and two things I don't agree with....again...just me...1) knocking the base loose after applying the epoxy defeats 1/2 the purpose of applying the epoxy in the first place 2) may have just been an oversight and not mentioned..... however...he did not mention cleaning the actual screw holes in the receiver to remove the wax applied to the screws which would stop the lock tite from adhering at all! .,..just me!

How would you clean the wax out? I think you need something petroleum based like mineral spirits to dissolve wax? Looks like cerekote has no problem with mineral spirits https://www.cerakote.de/media/pdf/1/ChemicalResist.pdf