School me on Suppressors?

coop2564

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My CA ridgeline 300wsm has 5/8-24 thread and currently has a radial style titanium brake. The sound and blast is very loud but it makes the gun very shootible from the recoil point, as a hunter I would love to have less recoil and less noise. How well do suppressors work at reducing kick compared to a radial brake? I assume I could get a 30cal can and switch back and forth from my 300wsm and my 6.5 cm they are same thread? Would you recommend the can that screws onto the brake or the direct mount where can screws onto barrel threads? I have never shot a suppressor and know very little about them, looking at the thunder beast ultra 5".
 
Thunder Beast is the gold standard by a long shot. The thread over brake mounts are better for several reasons, call TBAC and they'll tell you the same thing.
 
I used to be all in on thread over brakes, after using them and DT I prefer DT.

I like my sico omega 300, it has a brake at the end of it, but I can't tell how effective it is. I also have a a 10" custom can. Both take the edge off and are nice to shoot but the 10" is heavy (20oz) and cumbersome.
 
make sure there is enough of a shoulder for the DT can if you go that route-- just because a barrel is threaded 5/8x24 doesnt mean it is designed for mounting a suppressor -- you should really ave around a .7" or larger barrel diameter at the can/shoulder junction to make sure the can mounts true/straight-- I have barrels that are threaded for brakes that should not be used with a suppressor the CA ridgeline should have a large enough shoulder but you didnt say what barrel/rifle your 6.5 is --this is where the QD adapter could be of a benefit

as far as the recoil reduction of a can-- they help somewhat compared to bare muzzle, but nowhere near what a good brake can do for recoil reduction
 
As others noted, DT is the way to go. I do not have a hands-on experience with TB Ultra 5 but I am very pleased with my Eliteiron Bravo (Made in Montana, went this route to support local business) on my .30 LARA and other .30 cals and smaller including my 6.5 CM. The amount of recoil reduction varies just like on MBs. Do you have a friend that has one for you to try on your next range time?
 
All this direct thread stuff is hilarious. Look around, all of the critical joints in the world are taper interface. Aircraft turbines? Taper interface. Tie rods on big rigs? Taper interface. Worlds largest industrial pump seals? Taper interface. Worlds largest electricity generators? Taper interface. Wheel bearings? Taper interface. Worlds largest mining crushers? Taper interface. Suppressor? Taper interface.
 
I have no doubt that a taper thread could be a better interface for mounting one object to another.

I do however think there are many other variables in play in entire rifle systems. I don't like stacking 12 shims under a brake, I don't like timing the brakes at home. They also seem much less efficient than a proper brake(though I rarely use them as a brake).

I have both, I use both. I think the best scenario is likely having your barrel smith properly time your taper brake so it shoulders without shim washers.
 
I suppose "IF" your system is designed to screw on over brake then go that route. My suppressor is meant for DT.

over brake dt.JPG


According to TB's site, they have an option for either OB or DT. So I guess it boils down to personal choice/preference.
 
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I have no doubt that a taper thread could be a better interface for mounting one object to another.

I do however think there are many other variables in play in entire rifle systems. I don't like stacking 12 shims under a brake, I don't like timing the brakes at home. They also seem much less efficient than a proper brake(though I rarely use them as a brake).

I have both, I use both. I think the best scenario is likely having your barrel smith properly time your taper brake so it shoulders without shim washers.
You could have just said that a properly oriented taper interface is preferred. Improperly machined trash will always be improperly machined trash. Don't like shims ? Get a better gunsmith. Don't like timing brakes? Get a better gunsmith. Don't like crappy gunsmiths ? Get a better gunsmith.
 
You could have just said that a properly oriented taper interface is preferred. Improperly machined trash will always be improperly machined trash. Don't like shims ? Get a better gunsmith. Don't like timing brakes? Get a better gunsmith. Don't like crappy gunsmiths ? Get a better gunsmith.

I don't know why you're being rude but I'm talking about mounting brakes at home being very frustrating. I think most people don't have their 10+ brakes professionally timed on every AR they slap together.

I don't need a better gunsmith mines pretty good :)

edit* since op only has 2 guns/barrels if they are willing to have the qd brakes properly timed i would probably go that route, otherwise I would go DT. They both work well
 
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I don't know why you're being rude but I'm talking about mounting brakes at home being very frustrating. I think most people don't have their 10+ brakes professionally timed on every AR they slap together.

I don't need a better gunsmith mines pretty good :)

edit* since op only has 2 guns/barrels if they are willing to have the qd brakes properly timed i would probably go that route, otherwise I would go DT. They both work well
Some people just come off a little argumentative..
So you feel that for a Precision rifle there's any difference between DT and a thread over brake?
Also does the brake reduce any additional recoil with a can over it?
 
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