Savage trigger/action bound up?!

Groot

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182
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Pennsylvania
I have an old flatback savage 110 that I just pillar and full length bedded into a boyds stock and now when I tighten the rear action screw down the bolt release/trigger mechanism is getting bound up somehow.

Ive removed some material from the rear pillar so that the bolt release would clear and it doesnt seem like there is any material holding anything up around the trigger but when I start to tighten down the action screw and try to move the bolt release it is getting hung up on something pretty solid while moving in the upward direction. It will also get hung up just by squeezing the action in the stock and working the bolt release. so it doesn't require much force to do it.

If I pull up hard enough on the lever or run the bolt back hard enough into the bolt stop tab (bolt release) it will snap up all the way and the sear/trigger will engage. If the bolt is lifted and cycled normally the sear doesn't engage and the bolt will just spring back down.

I put a couple notecards between the action and the stock just to see if it was a clearance issue and everything worked as it should, I noticed at that time that there wasn't even float on the tang so I dremeled some material from the stock thinking that maybe it was twisting or putting uneven pressure on the action but that also didn't seem to work.

I've tinkered with it just about everyday over the last week and haven't had much luck. Frustration is beginning to set in haha! Anyone have any thoughts or insight on what could be the issue? I can post pictures later if it will help.
 
was the trigger guard replaced? I had one that bound up with a newer inlet and the old trigger guard. try removing the trigger guard and using small washers to make up the difference and try tightening the action
 
I feel that it almost has to be something getting bound up with the bolt release/sear mechanism because the trigger and everything else moves freely as it should. Here are some pictures.
 

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in your last pic it looks like a rub mark on the sear right by the action bolt hole and in pic #2 a matching rub mark. also a mark in pic #2 down by trigger guard cut out where the accutriger might be rubbing. the accutrigger is thicker and might be rubbing
 
in your last pic it looks like a rub mark on the sear right by the action bolt hole and in pic #2 a matching rub mark. also a mark in pic #2 down by trigger guard cut out where the accutriger might be rubbing. the accutrigger is thicker and might be rubbing
the rub mark on sear I believe is from prior to me removing some material on the pillar. I didn't think that would have been the issue but let me see if I can track down a sharpie and ill see if a rub reappears. The more I tinker with it the more I grow concerned that its a pressure/tension issue with the pillars/bedding job.
 
in your last pic it looks like a rub mark on the sear right by the action bolt hole and in pic #2 a matching rub mark. also a mark in pic #2 down by trigger guard cut out where the accutriger might be rubbing. the accutrigger is thicker and might be rubbing

Marked it up, put it back together, and there was the problem, somehow the sear was still catching on the pillar even after removing a quarter inch! Thanks for helping me see the issue staring me in the face! I took some more material off the pillar and so far it seems to work perfect.
 
In the future when you have problems with something binding, soot up the action with a candle and then put back together and then take it apart. The soot will transfer to the area it is touching and shows you where you have a problem. That way you won't be removing more material than you need to. I do this when building flintlock rifles.
 
In the future when you have problems with something binding, soot up the action with a candle and then put back together and then take it apart. The soot will transfer to the area it is touching and shows you where you have a problem. That way you won't be removing more material than you need to. I do this when building flintlock rifles.
Good to know, I'll have to give that a try next time
 
Yup, I have one of those flat back savages and had to remove half of the pillar width for quite a ways down. baby powder is a another good layout material to find contact points.
 
It sounds like your bedding is binding up the action. It is not flat in the stock. I have had that same problem with those stocks. The bottom of the action has to be flat in the stock of it will make it bind up. Do like the other guys said and mark the bottom of the action and find the high points and remove a little at a time until the whole bottom just lays in there flat.
 
It sounds like your bedding is binding up the action. It is not flat in the stock. I have had that same problem with those stocks. The bottom of the action has to be flat in the stock of it will make it bind up. Do like the other guys said and mark the bottom of the action and find the high points and remove a little at a time until the whole bottom just lays in there flat.

once I removed more of the pillar as others above suggested everything returned to function as it should. I was glad that was the issue because I was concerned that it was the bedding.

I took the rifle (savage 110 7mm rem with 162 AMX and H4831) to the range yesterday (probably wasn't the best day as it was 90+ degrees) and shot 5 different 3 shot groups and all followed the same pattern almost to a T.

The first 2 shots between 1/2-3/4" and then the third shot would land high and open the group up to 1.25-1.5". It was HOT 93 degree day and the spotter barrel heated up fast and I'd wait anywhere between 5-10 minutes between each shot. Pretty much until I could touch the barrel and then a couple more minutes later I'd shoot again.

My first instinct is that there's contact and the barrel expands and is being pushed up on. And there is contact at one point, I put bedding material for the first inch of barrel following the barrel nut. But in all the times I've experienced this before the contact point was further up the forend. So my question is do you guys think this the cause?
 
1)Personally I would have clearanced the sear before my pillar. The foundation just got smaller. But hopefully it gets even torque.

2) I really hog all my barrel channels out now. I have more trouble from "free floated" barrels tha aren't really free. If you hold the pistol grip with one hand and smack the for stock with the other....and it in turn smackes the barrel with a click sound then it needs more trimmed out (in my opinion)

Hope your frustrations get solved
 
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