Savage / Shilen questions

[Axtell3]

I'm saying that a inch dowel and sand paper and a few hours of work, even then you might not be pleased with the out come.
Now if it was the 110 police style accustock, built for the 300 winmag, you'd have a different animal.
mho+2cents

 

[Trickymissfit]

I'm saying that a inch dowel and sand paper and a few hours of work, even then you might not be pleased with the out come.
Now if it was the 110 police style accustock, built for the 300 winmag, you'd have a different animal.
mho+2cents

here's a trick that I came up with when I had to relieve a bunch of wood on a laminated stock forend. I found these rotary rasps at Lowes or Menards in different diameters and about 3" long. I bought several of them, and made a holder for them. Now I use them to rough out the wood till it gets within about .06" of where I want it to be. From there I sand it nice and smooth (two or three ice cold Fat Tires really helps along the way). The rasps cut the wood much faster, and work just as well on graphite and plastic stocks.
gary

 

[Axtell3]

Ill have to look for those rasps.
I think the fat tires might be good too, round here it's custom brewcrafters or southern tier ale.

 

[Trickymissfit]

Ill have to look for those rasps.
I think the fat tires might be good too, round here it's custom brewcrafters or southern tier ale.

when you see that rasp, you'll know how to make the handle for it. There's also a half round one that may work just as well. Just saves a lot of time and elbow grease
gary

 

[jay blaze]

Hey im looking to do the same thing but looking for a bull barrel 300 win mag. I looked around and love the kits but looking for that fat none tapered and extra weight. Order a reciver wrench and think im going to use the block of wood with the c clamp trick. First build and cant wait but havent seen any bull barrel replacment barrel kits. The kits comes with the no go and go gauges and the nut wrench and then some. The rifle is a 110 savage my buddy got some mud in the barrel and didnt know it and shot it. The 7mm mag put a nice bow in the barrel. I swaped him and thought it would be an ecellent project. Now stalled by the selections of barrel contur. I called midway and asked if this is some thing that they can provide and they said that by popular demand or very rare times they will special order. Waiting for the call saying that they can make it happen.

 

[Axtell3]

You don't need to buy a package, and shopping around might save you time and money. Check the savageshooters page just put a dot com on there.
They have nice writeups with photos, lists of supplies etc. I worked with Northland in Minnesota to order the barrel, as Midway didn't have what I wanted then. Got my action wrench from Midway, as well as the go guage and trigger guard. Not sure what stock you want, but I will say that Boyds classic will be too narrow for a full bull. I think thier thumbhole stock is wider. Stockys I'm told has a wider classic type.

Have fun! It's pretty awesome when the package comes together.

 

[shortgrass]

The rifle is a 110 savage my buddy got some mud in the barrel and didnt know it and shot it. The 7mm mag put a nice bow in the barrel. I swaped him and thought it would be an ecellent project.

A revived thread from 2010! jay blaze,,,, any receiver that has been over pressured from an over loaded round or barrel obstruction should be inspected by someone who knows what they are looking for (preferably Magnafluxed). No sense in putting money into a potential "bomb".

 

[Jinx-)]

I had Savage 111 none-accustock and within 30 minutes and Dremel, then emery cloth I got it to fit heavy varmint barrel. It works, but I'm going to change this stock to something nicer, I was thinking wood-laminate....

 

[Trickymissfit]

You don't need to buy a package, and shopping around might save you time and money. Check the savageshooters page just put a dot com on there.
They have nice writeups with photos, lists of supplies etc. I worked with Northland in Minnesota to order the barrel, as Midway didn't have what I wanted then. Got my action wrench from Midway, as well as the go guage and trigger guard. Not sure what stock you want, but I will say that Boyds classic will be too narrow for a full bull. I think thier thumbhole stock is wider. Stockys I'm told has a wider classic type.

Have fun! It's pretty awesome when the package comes together.

I've seen a few of the savage barrel wrenches ruined in the past, and the best one you can buy is the one from Sharp Shooter Supply. The later ones use a standard pin configuration, and they'd be easy to make one for. I built my own out of some 4150 steel plate that was headed to the scrap tub. But if I ever change nuts again, I'm goint with the later version. I've kinda been wanting to do a Mod 12 in a McMillen for several years now, but just never had the time and money at the sametime.
gary

 

[Jinx-)]

If you have to remove factory barrel, nut-wrench alone might not be sufficient, so I would recommend buying action wrench as well, this way you can push-pull on both to get action loose. It saves time and energy for factory torqued barrel nuts
That's what happen to my wheeler nut wrench and the nut didn't move at all...

 

[Trickymissfit]

If you have to remove factory barrel, nut-wrench alone might not be sufficient, so I would recommend buying action wrench as well, this way you can push-pull on both to get action loose. It saves time and energy for factory torqued barrel nuts
That's what happen to my wheeler nut wrench and the nut didn't move at all...

never try to remove the nut with just an action wrench. You stand a good chance of warping the action. Same holds true with the ones that don't use a nut. I cut mine out on a wire, and .27" thick from 4150 pretreat steel. Had I todo it over again, I would use .30" 4150 with a different style of driver hole.
gary

 

[Jinx-)]

So Garry, when working with nut-less setup, what else do you use other then action wrench and barrel vise to free action from the barrel? From my experience once factory barrel nut is removed and anti-seize grease applied , which was absent in my case, removing barrel nut with barrel-nut wrench alone had never been a problem.

 

[Trickymissfit]

So Garry, when working with nut-less setup, what else do you use other then action wrench and barrel vise to free action from the barrel? From my experience once factory barrel nut is removed and anti-seize grease applied , which was absent in my case, removing barrel nut with barrel-nut wrench alone had never been a problem.

I have a strap wrench that is fairly small. (maybe 12" long) I use a piece of leather belting between the wrench and the barrel (I also modded that face to make it much smoother). Then I will use a piece of paper or even sand paper (upside down) to go between the strap and the metal. Been a pretty good setup for me over the years, and this reminds me that somebody I know has had the thing for over six months!! I did see one once that worked like a barrel vise, and used hard maple inserts (home made). Had a post that was about six inches long, and the guy simply smacked it with a mallet. Worked very well, and I should have made one. Probably the best barrel wrench I've ever seen. If somebody here has seen one for sale please post it as I want one, and I'm too lazy to make one in my old age.

By the way never use Loctite Antisieze on precision threads! Use the brand name Never Sieze with Nickel compound. I've seen many sets of threads ruined with the Loctite stuff. Just very lightly coat the barrel thread, and then take a dry paper towl and try to wipe it off. Then you'll have just about the right amount. A pint can will last you a very long time. Also reduce your torque spec by about a third minimum (can says 50%)
gary

 

[Trickymissfit]

So Garry, when working with nut-less setup, what else do you use other then action wrench and barrel vise to free action from the barrel? From my experience once factory barrel nut is removed and anti-seize grease applied , which was absent in my case, removing barrel nut with barrel-nut wrench alone had never been a problem.

I have seen Savages and Remingtons with someform of thread locker (think it's Vibratite by the color). If they don't give it a couple hours to completely dry it will be a serious effort to remove. The Vibratite bunch will tell you to simply put two or three dots of the stuff on the threads, and let it dry. I've seen threads completely coated with it. Vibratite was developed for very fine thread forms and is not ment to be a thread locker. Used right the stuff does a great job.
gary