I have 2 Savage 340s in 30-30 and kicking around the idea of re-barreling one of them to 25-35. Does the 340 use the same thread and barrel nut as the 110? Could it really be that easy? I'm assuming I will need a 25 caliber barrel blank of the correct outside diameter and have the receiver end threaded as wel as have it chambered for the 25-35. Is this even possible? Or should I just keep things the way they are? Thanks for any thoughts and insights you may have.
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Savage M340 re-barrel question for the experts.
- Thread starter Elkmann
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Rflshootr
Well-Known Member
From what I am reading, the shank is smaller on a 340. Somewhere in the .850-.875 range. A 1.060 barrel could be turned and rethreaded. Of course, the straight section would be longer once turned.
This is correct….the shank is .858"/18V threads/inch, shank 1.9" long. The 110's have a different threat/shank length. 1.655"/ 20TPI
Unless you could find a good used replacement barrel in 25-35. I also understand that removing the barrel on thr 340 is a major undertaking…. It may be possible that you could find a good used, complete 340 Rifle in this caliber on one of the Auction houses(ie. Gunbroker)… for less then the barrel/conversion cost even if the shanks compatible….IMO.
VTbluegrass
Well-Known Member
I've seen one completely apart for repair but it was over 20 years ago and I don't recall it being as simple as the 110 replacement and but all that was done was to replace the 30-30 barrel with a factory piece from Numrich gun parts.
Replacement that would be more interning to me and using the 30-30 cases you have would be one of the BRM cartridges. I wanted a 7 BRM in an Eabco 97 some kinda bad for a year or two luckily the feeling passed.
Replacement that would be more interning to me and using the 30-30 cases you have would be one of the BRM cartridges. I wanted a 7 BRM in an Eabco 97 some kinda bad for a year or two luckily the feeling passed.
Unfortunately for finding a 340 rifle in 25-35 it was never chambered in that caliber. All of the above information provided is greatly appreciated.
remember there wasn't a provision for scope mounts if I recall so make sure you have sights put on.
The action is a single locking lug so you are on the right track to stick with a low pressure cartridge. Another way to make it work would be to get one in 222 and rebore it.
The action is a single locking lug so you are on the right track to stick with a low pressure cartridge. Another way to make it work would be to get one in 222 and rebore it.
bigbrad53
Well-Known Member
222 magazine, bolt face and extractor are too small. Any gunsmith who does barrel work can do this. Contour, thread, chamber, set head space, and cut extractor notch. Thought about doing this for years, just never got around to it. Early 340's weren't drilled, taped for mounts but are easily done.
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bigbrad53
Well-Known Member
I'm loading my 340's and 99 with spire points, 4 grains over manual max with NO issues. Only other bolt guns in 30-30 to build one on are Winchester 54 and 788 Remington, good luck with that. Both are selling for way too much money!
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And this is why i should stop and think before saying something
you are completely correct.I have a soft spot for the 340 because I used fot the first time I went moose hunting the Yukon. I have one sitting in the get to pile I was going to cerikote and redo the grip a bit add a good recoil pad for my youngest.
Sometimes we do stuff just because we want to I guess.
So true about the "Just because we want to". Gets me in trouble all the time. I also have a soft spot for it as my Dad had the Coast to Coast Hardware version in 222. With open sights it was a tack driver.And this is why i should stop and think before saying something
I have a soft spot for the 340 because I used fot the first time I went moose hunting the Yukon. I have one sitting in the get to pile I was going to cerikote and redo the grip a bit add a good recoil pad for my youngest.
Sometimes we do stuff just because we want to I guess.
