Savage 116 FHSS/111 LRH/116 BH

[Imho]

I'm planning to progressively build a custom LRH rifle based on the Savage long action (.300WM), with barrel-swap potential. As a first step the intention is to buy a stock rifle and pretty much immediately replace the barrel with a match grade 26" #5-#7 contour barrel.

After wading through the alphabet soup that is Savages model designations, and features, I've narrowed it down to 116 FHSS/111 LRH/116 Bear Hunter.

Given that the barrel is going to be replaced (and therefore ignoring barrel length and muzzle brake combinations), from what I can tell they are essentially the same - long action, AccuStock, AccuTrigger - except the LRH is blued (my preference is for stainless) and has the Karsten adjustable comb, and the BH has a camo stock.

I can't find anything that indicates Savage have done extra work to the receiver, bolt, trigger or bedding on the LRH.

I guess the question is: Is there anything special about the LRH apart from the longer barrel (and muzzle brake)?

Thanks in advance.

 

[savage7mag]

The long range hunter may say blued on the savage web page but it is really a bead blasted matte. I think you pretty much nailed it the finish, brake, and karsten are really all that set it apart from the other models.

 

[Hankster76]

Save yourself the time and $$ and buy the custom savage 300 wm I have for sale in the classifieds. All the work is done and it is already a shooter. @ $675 shipped you will be saving about half of a build.

 

[Imho]

s7m - Thanks. You are correct, the LRH is matte, my mistake.

Hankster - Unfortunately I'm in Australia and importing firearms is a nightmare.

 

[liltank]

If you plan on switching out the stock, I would suggest getting something in the non-Accustock combination. If you plan to keep the stock, then by all means go with the Accustock. Your barrel contours sound good. Putting the barrel on and off is relatively easy. I have put a couple Savages together with good results. Make sure you buy the proper tools. I use the wheeler engineering action wrench and barrel nut wrench. You don't need a barrel vise if you have the action wrench. Another option is calling Savage and ordering a rifle.

They use to make a 112 BVSS. It was a long action on a laminated stock with pillar bedding. They have an internal mag and everybody that has owned one on this website has been rather pleased. From my understanding you can call and get one put together to your specifications for about $100 more. I personally like the laminate stock better than their synthetics. Again if you are changing out the stock, then its a non-issue. Bolts, firing pin, and headspace is easy to do. One of the best aftermarket stocks I have seen for Savage is made by Stockade stocks. He builds stocks specifically for Savage rifles.

As far as the LRH is concerned, they use a lighter contour barrel. It comes with the muzzle break and the longer barrel. With that said, from my understanding the barrel is actually around 24 to 24.5 inches due to the break accounting for the OAL of the barrel. The Karsten cheek rest is fairly in expensive and can be bought online. If you have questions about the cheek rest or want information, I have an email from Karsten I sent requesting price info. It also has a detachable box magazine.

I can tell you from experience the DBM is difficult to find an aftermarket stock for. Like I said though, Stockade offers stocks that can be inleted for the bottom metal for the Savage factory DBM or drop plate. B&C offer stocks that work well with internal mags. I think McMillian and Manners will make you a stock as well.

Tank

 

[Imho]

Thanks for the advice Tank.

The intention is to keep the AccuStock for the time being. I haven't used the AccuTrigger on the new Savages so I'll see how that performs before making a decision on that. I also intend to get the new and old style barrel nut wrench, and the action wrench, even though I think I'll replace the barrel nut with the older slotted style.

The barrel will probably be a 26" stainless match barrel with a threaded 3-slot "tactical"-type muzzle brake. The biggest decision I have at the moment is what calibre. Although I'd probably be happy with the .300WM, I already have a sporter-weight hunting rifle that shoots ~7/8". I'm tempted to try a .300 WBY MAG as I wouldn't have to make any bolt-head changes and the ballistics are not far behind the .300RUM.

If I don't get the LRH then I'll order the Karsten cheek piece separately.

Once again, because I'm in Australia it's not so easy to order a custom configuration from Savage. The lead time is huge. Never forget how lucky you are to have the options available in the US.

 

[liltank]

Thanks for the advice Tank.

The intention is to keep the AccuStock for the time being. I haven't used the AccuTrigger on the new Savages so I'll see how that performs before making a decision on that. I also intend to get the new and old style barrel nut wrench, and the action wrench, even though I think I'll replace the barrel nut with the older slotted style.

The barrel will probably be a 26" stainless match barrel with a threaded 3-slot "tactical"-type muzzle brake. The biggest decision I have at the moment is what calibre. Although I'd probably be happy with the .300WM, I already have a sporter-weight hunting rifle that shoots ~7/8". I'm tempted to try a .300 WBY MAG as I wouldn't have to make any bolt-head changes and the ballistics are not far behind the .300RUM.

If I don't get the LRH then I'll order the Karsten cheek piece separately.

Once again, because I'm in Australia it's not so easy to order a custom configuration from Savage. The lead time is huge. Never forget how lucky you are to have the options available in the US.

I would definitely change over to the slotted barrel nut. I have only worked with the slotted one and it works well. You would be surprised at how hard you can push the Weatherby case. I saw a guy using the 300 Weatherby for competition shooting 240grn SMK's. I know another guy that pushes 210VLD's for prairie dog hunting. He is trying to get to the 2000yrd mark. I have a feeling the Weatherby would do some damage to a dingo or a roo if you hunt them.

Tank

 

[geargrinder]

Why not the RUM? It has much more case capacity than the 300Wby. Case lengths are about equal so you'll run into OAL issues either way unless you run it single shot.

Take the smooth nut off with a pipe wrench and swap on a slotted with a cheap wheeler wrench.

+1 on finding a BVSS stock.

 

[Camshaft]

I would be tempted to run the wsm case in the long action and throat the barrel for the 208amax seated as long as possible. Or I have been thinking about necking a 338rum down to utilize the slightly shorter case. And seat to mag length and still have all the power needed to push the amax good and fast.

 

[liltank]

I would be tempted to run the wsm case in the long action and throat the barrel for the 208amax seated as long as possible. Or I have been thinking about necking a 338rum down to utilize the slightly shorter case. And seat to mag length and still have all the power needed to push the amax good and fast.

You'll want to be careful with long necking the WSM case. I tried doing that and ran into some problems. Now I will admit, I didn't know quite what I was doing when I tried this, but the problem I ran into was case volume verses powder selection. What I mean is that I ran into not being able to use a fast enough powder to give proper case volume and provide the right velocity I was looking for with the 208's. I couldn't cram enough slow powder to make it worth it. I was trying to achieve the 2950 range with RL17 and H4350. But when I tried to get the volume I wanted it would over pressure. Now granted at the time I was trying this I didn't realize you could seat them so deep. Having that knowledge now may make a difference. I may play with the WSM again some day, but right now if I go magnum again, it will be with the 300Win Mag, or the RUM. The idea of squirting a 208/210 grain bullet at 3200fps makes me feel funny inside!

Tank

 

[Camshaft]

I agree with yo on the 300rum. Mine pushes the 210bergers to 3170fps. Definitely smokin performance. My wsm pushes the amax to 2800 with H4831sc. I believe with the right throat I could almost 100fps more. But my factory savage has such a short throat that I am seating the bullet so far down that all but maybe .010 of the bearing surface is in the case. This is also a 24" barrel. I'm going to be messing around with re25 and h1000 later this year when I can get the throat reamed out and seat them farther. I really think that one of these powders will be the ticket.

 

[captainjoe]

If you plan on switching out the stock, I would suggest getting something in the non-Accustock combination.

I don't know if forum rules prohibit the posting of links to other sites, but if you are interested there are new 116 FHSS 300 Win Mags on sale on Guns America that do not have the Accustock. If you are going to replace the stock anyhow, you can get one of these for $200 less than buying the current 116 FHSS with the Accustock. Send me a PM if you want the link. HTH

 

[liltank]

I agree with yo on the 300rum. Mine pushes the 210bergers to 3170fps. Definitely smokin performance. My wsm pushes the amax to 2800 with H4831sc. I believe with the right throat I could almost 100fps more. But my factory savage has such a short throat that I am seating the bullet so far down that all but maybe .010 of the bearing surface is in the case. This is also a 24" barrel. I'm going to be messing around with re25 and h1000 later this year when I can get the throat reamed out and seat them farther. I really think that one of these powders will be the ticket.

I am interested to see what happens with the RL25 and H1000. Keep us updated please!

Tank

 

[Imho]

I used to be indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.

I think I'm going to run into problems with OAL and magazine length with the .300 WBY or RUM. Ideally I'd like to stay with the standard shank long action and magnum bolt head. The RUM bolt head uses a different controlled feed and ejector arrangement and I don't think there is a WSM/RUM bolt head in a long action, at least not off the shelf (my only option). From a purely aesthetic point of view the step-down on the large shank barrel doesn't do much for me either.

On top of that I've been reading about very short barrel life for both the WBY and RUM. If it truly is 200-300 rounds then it's probably not an option for me. Maybe the .300WM is a better option, although I was looking for something "different".

Any guidance would be appreciated.