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Savage 110 Reliable? Weaknesses?

I put my first one together over the summer as I wanted to see all this hype about doing it in my garage.

Bought a mid 80s 110 Flat Back off this site.
Bought a "barely" used 6.5x284 Norma barrel off this site.
Received an older wood stock from a member here and bedded it up. After seeing the potential I sent the barreled action off to McMillan for a stock (as mentioned by others, finding after market for them is a challenge).

Group on the left is my son's first shots out of this rifle. The group to the right is mine. These older Savages are fun...

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My first rifle was a 110 in .270 win. purchased from walmart around 1999. IDK how many deer ive killed with it. never had a mechanical or accuracy issue with it. I took a few shots at 400yds with hornady factory ammo and it was dead in line and around 36in low (not bad for my first time trying 400) Had a guy load 90gn hollow points for me (before i started loading) dropped a few deer with those. I would compare it to a Glock in some aspects; tough, reliable, priced so that if you lose it you can replace it.

I wouldnt hesitate to buy another savage (It would probably be the mod. 12 left bolt right port)
 
Hi fellas,

I just acquired a Savage 110 Tactical in 300 Win and was considering this rifle for a possible Alaska trip but I am not real familiar with Savage. I saw on another forum folks questioning the reliability of the 110 for competition shooting so I began to wonder if it it's a great choice for out of state hunts where I cannot just run back home for another rifle or easily pack an extra. What experiences good or bad have you all had? What should I upgrade if anything?

Thank you for your time.
Bob
I own many savages. Converted nearly 30 years ago. The old 110 with the piano wire trigger need a aftermarket trigger and a bolt lift kit (bolt lift kit will lighten the lift). Both make the gun function great. The new models with the trigger need nothing. After the fixes on the old and the new models as they are, I would take them anywhere. Believe me I'm hard on rifles. I don't have a rifle without a scratch, chip, dent, or gouge. I've broken two rifle stocks, a factory wood. The other a custom fiberglass. The actions have never failed me.
 
They are ugly and I hate the safety. I had one savage rifle and sold it. I hear they shoot great but I'll never pay for one again. I'd rather accurize my Rem 700's or stick with my Sako and Win model 70's. Just my opinion of course. 😉
I wouldn't buy one of the newest models. Accuracy can be very mediocre or superbly accurate depending on your luck of the draw. The barrels are some of the worst in the industry under a bore scope. I bought 2 6.5 Creedmoor Predators, a 6mm Creesmoor Desert Tactical, and a 260 in the Model 11 XP scoped package guns within the past 3 years. The .260 and both 6.5 Creedmoors barely got 1" (MOA) with my best handloads. The 6mm Creed was a tack driver and shot 3/8 MOA in a heavy rainstorm. I liked the walnut stocks, and some of the early stocks in the Long Range Hunter models before the put those abominable Accu-Stocks with the ugly high-rise Kydex cheek piece.

I would think the Ultralights with Proof barrel would be accurate, depending on how the barreled action meets the plastic stock. Those new plastic stocks are the worst, IMO. The Ultralight is way overpriced, however. Give me a pillar bedded Hogue any day over the so-called "Accu-Stock."

Now what they are good for is building custom rifles out of. I buy a cheap, beat up rifle, preferably Model 10, 11, 12, 16, or older 110 and 111, 112, and 116 and take the factory barrel and stock off, then bed in a Boyd's after sanding out the barrel channel to proper size, and installing a Criterion heavy sporter barrel or varmint barrel with minimum headspace. I haven't been able to do any worse than superbly with this combination so far after several tries now. Sub-1/2 MOA in every build, and many shoot bugholes. I use the top bolt release models that pre-dated these newer 110 models and replace the Accu-Trigger spring with a target spring and cut the weight of pull down to 1.5 pounds. Some of the actions are rough to operate because the bolt ends up riding in contact with the magazine. Not many people make aftermarket stocks for a Savage that you wouldn't have to wait 4 - 6 months to be made. There are a few more choices if you use a bull barrel. I generally go with a 1/4" recoil lug from PTG or EABCO and bed the entire action with gray MarineTex.

So to answer the question of the OP, grab one and see. It may drive tacks or you may struggle to get to MOA. But if you want a stupid accurate custom gun on a budget, this is going to be by far the best way to go to build one.
 
Now what they are good for is building custom rifles out of. I buy a cheap, beat up rifle, preferably Model 10, 11, 12, 16, or older 110 and 111, 112, and 116 and take the factory barrel and stock off, then bed in a Boyd's after sanding out the barrel channel to proper size, and installing a Criterion heavy sporter barrel or varmint barrel with minimum headspace. I haven't been able to do any worse than superbly with this combination so far after several tries now. Sub-1/2 MOA in every build, and many shoot bugholes.
300, I agree completely, except I use Shilen barrels, B&C stocks, and Timney trigger (I've never bought one new enough for the accutrigger). Ridiculously accurate for not much money.
 
Savage's I've owned and loaded for have been more accurate and reliable than their cost should allow. Of course that's a good thing. That's especially true of a 110. Only reason I haven't chosen a Savage in the past for one of my Elk hunt's is that I have to hump a rifle over the mountains often for many miles along with at least a day pack, water and other essentials. I try to keep things light yet I want a longer barrel as well for longer range for Elk hunting. In the past Savage to my knowledge had no high powered rifle that really fit that niche. They had some short barreled rifles that were fairly light but anything I consider a magnum rifle with a suitable barrel was very heavy. Just lately, I saw a newer model though expensive for a savage, I think around 1200, was both light with a decent length barrel even blueprinted like a custom job. Now that looked really interesting to me as a Elk hunter. Had I not already invested in a lightweight magnum I would be all over that. But if either a short barrel or a heavy rifle for you is not a concern a 110 would serve you well I'm sure.
 
To see what a rifle will do, I use a Choate stock. I have no less than a half dozen for prairie dog work. My 17 Remington is a Shilen bull barrel no taper, Choate stock cavities filled with #9 shot, T rail I have a piece of 1/2"x3" flat bar. Rig weighs right at 40#, you can see hits and misses.
Same set up on 22-250 enables the same end result.

I am tinkering with the thought of a new stock for my 270WW.
If your a smooth bore junky, don't bother with a bore scope. I have a 308 that looks terrible, yet shoots over and above a couple of buddies after market barrels.
 
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300, I agree completely, except I use Shilen barrels, B&C stocks, and Timney trigger (I've never bought one new enough for the accutrigger). Ridiculously accurate for not much money.
I have lots of pre-Accutrigger and several Accutrigger models, the Acuutrigger is legit.

If you want to build off a a Savage, locate older Top Bolt Release 10/110 or what I prefer, the current model 10FV rifle. With 10FV, you can put the barreled action in a way better stock or just use the action, in a more better barrel & stock of choice.
The current 10FV has the smaller firing pin hole & better all around action, than previous models and all that's required is some lug lapping, bolt lift kit and a new bolt handle, while you're at, for an awesome rifle, and you can do it on your own, with a few tools and chamber gauge set or fired cartridge.
 
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