Savage 110 Reliable? Weaknesses?

[Turkeytider]

I know this is an older thread, but I wanted to add that I was told by a very talented gun maker and shooter that I needed a bolt larger than a .700" to handle Lapua bolt face cartridges (Including the Norma Mags because that's what I was trying to build. At the time, all of the aftermarket actions offered .750" bolts, and that's what he stated was necessary. However, now, there are some who split the difference and go with a .725" bolt diameter. Not sure what the Savage .338 Lapua Long Range was wearing, but I never heard of but 1 sized bolt for them. Correct me if that one was larger. I've also been told that I must have a large shank to run an UM or Short Mag of any sort. While not larger than the belt diameter on a belted magnum of old, the .404 Jeffrey-based cartridges operate at 3,000 - 5,000 more PSI max avg pressure compared to many of the belted magnums. Maybe Roy Weatherby was correct making his massive 9-lug bolt.

All I will say is that if I ever decide to build my Norma Mag wildcat, I will be using an aftermarket action, not a Savage. The cycling of the action is not generally really smooth. There are some things that could be done to polish it up, perhaps. I am the occasional shooter/hunter, and therefore, probably couldn't shoot an expensive aftermarket any better at 3/4 mile than I could a Savage. I am that giy with minimal skill who enjoys the heck out of screwing on a pre-fit barrel and shooting bugholes @100yds, since most shots here on game occur at around that distance. I think the worst I've done has been with a Shilen Select Match .308 Match pre-fit that would group no better than around 5/8 - 11/16" @100yds. The best I've done is a couple that would shoot tiny clusters with holes all connecting around 0.188" @100yds with a Varmint weight Criterion in 6.5x47 Lapua, and a Preferred Barrel Blanks wildcat .270 caliber based on a necked up Creedmoor with special throating. I had a black olastic Axis in .270 Win that shot 1/2" right from the factory with a little support under the barrel channel. Then I've had a new Axis 6mm ARC shoot maybe 1 1/2" @100yds, and a .300 Win Mag in the Model 111 Long Range Hunter that wouldn't hold 2 1/2 - 3" @100yds. It is fun to tinker, though.

I will agree that the Savages are not nearly as big a draw now as they were even 10 - 20 years ago. The quality has seemed to decline of some of the parts, and the top bolt release has given way to the new Tupperware 110 dipped in various color schemes and outfitted with spiraled or carbon wrapped barrels. The lapping process is atrocious. (What lapping process?!?!) I am currently moving from Boyd's stocks to chassis systems and then on to aftermarket actions like ARC and Kelbly because they are designed to run Remington stocks, triggers, and bottom metals. The disadvantage is cost. With more money to play with, I can build nicer toys. With little funding, I can still by a functional and accurate hunting rifle, bit may not be able to customize it as much as I'd like. As more makers of parts shift to supply M5 bottom metals, actuons with contiguous recoil lugs and rails that have a shorter throw/faster lock time and the all-important butter-smooth action with carbon barrels and stocks, there are going to be fewer Savage parts made. The only thing that may survive is the action thread pattern because some aftermarket companies have adopted it- namely Zermatt and ARC. What it has going for it is that the price of the aftermarket actions and component builds is a barrier to many working folk that could buy 2 Mossbergs (or more) for the cost of just an action. With the price of the Savages steadily increasing, however; there are a few (at least) options less expensive than the high end Savages that are MUCH better rifles.

Well, I suppose a new Model 12 LRPV in .223 that should arrive today would qualify as a " high end Savage " at $1400, certainly as compared to what one would pay for an Axis. 26" fluted stainless heavy barrel, 1:7, HS Precision stock. HEAVY! Hope it functions and shoots as well as my 110 Storm in .223 has. I`ll be using it for a longer distance range gun. Here`s hoping!

 

[Turkeytider]

Well, I suppose a new Model 12 LRPV in .223 that should arrive today would qualify as a " high end Savage " at $1400, certainly as compared to what one would pay for an Axis. 26" fluted stainless heavy barrel, 1:7, HS Precision stock. HEAVY! Hope it functions and shoots as well as my 110 Storm in .223 has. I`ll be using it for a longer distance range gun. Here`s hoping!

Arrived today. I either spend more time in the gym or I`ll need a block and tackle to move this thing around! Not kidding...it is a BEAST of a gun! I can`t see ANYTHING pulling it off target, even a 10 lb trigger pull, if it had one, which it doesn`t. I think I`ll do curls with it! Actually, the gun is 11 lbs., but at 75 EVERYTHING seems heavier!

 

[.300 Dakota]

Well, I suppose a new Model 12 LRPV in .223 that should arrive today would qualify as a " high end Savage " at $1400, certainly as compared to what one would pay for an Axis. 26" fluted stainless heavy barrel, 1:7, HS Precision stock. HEAVY! Hope it functions and shoots as well as my 110 Storm in .223 has. I`ll be using it for a longer distance range gun. Here`s hoping!

I do love (and had forgotten about) the 12 LRPV. I think they are a sight better than the Model 110s. I have made some bugholes with them in years past without tinkering on them. You may still have a niche there where that model would be tough to beat, even at that price point. Another consideration is the twist rate. I would think it a short list of makes and models that still offer a traditional style bolt action rifle chambered in. 223 with 7 twist in a dedicated varmint weight rifle. I'd even admit to find a bolt gun chambered in .223 period is uncommon. They're all "Modern Sporting Rifles" now. Tikka and Sauer have varmint type rifles in that price range that I would consider better quality, but I'm pretty sure without looking they do not offer 1:7 twist, and may not have .223, though I think Tikka does.

So I will back track and show some reverence for your particular model of Savage, sir! And besides, if you get a good rifle that dhoots lights out and that you love, then it's the best choice automatically, at ANY price point! Most excellent rifle, sir! If Savage would bring back the Model 14/114 en force, expand the LRP/LRPV Model 12 line, and tighten quality control with respect to their barrels, I'd jump back on the bandwagon. Oh, and I eant my Model 14/114s with TOP bolt releases!!

 

[Turkeytider]

I do love (and had forgotten about) the 12 LRPV. I think they are a sight better than the Model 110s. I have made some bugholes with them in years past without tinkering on them. You may still have a niche there where that model would be tough to beat, even at that price point. Another consideration is the twist rate. I would think it a short list of makes and models that still offer a traditional style bolt action rifle chambered in. 223 with 7 twist in a dedicated varmint weight rifle. I'd even admit to find a bolt gun chambered in .223 period is uncommon. They're all "Modern Sporting Rifles" now. Tikka and Sauer have varmint type rifles in that price range that I would consider better quality, but I'm pretty sure without looking they do not offer 1:7 twist, and may not have .223, though I think Tikka does.

So I will back track and show some reverence for your particular model of Savage, sir! And besides, if you get a good rifle that dhoots lights out and that you love, then it's the best choice automatically, at ANY price point! Most excellent rifle, sir! If Savage would bring back the Model 14/114 en force, expand the LRP/LRPV Model 12 line, and tighten quality control with respect to their barrels, I'd jump back on the bandwagon. Oh, and I eant my Model 14/114s with TOP bolt releases!!

Thank you sir. First range day today. Zeroed at 100 yards 68 grain Hornady OTM (Frontier) with three, three round sub-MOA groups. She`s a shooter, alright. Looking forward to exploring some 70+ grain loads in the near future and just getting to know the gun and scope better.

I think Tikka`s .223`s are all 1:8, but I could be mistaken.

 

[.300 Dakota]

Thank you sir. First range day today. Zeroed at 100 yards 68 grain Hornady OTM (Frontier) with three, three round sub-MOA groups. She`s a shooter, alright. Looking forward to exploring some 70+ grain loads in the near future and just getting to know the gun and scope better.

I think Tikka`s .223`s are all 1:8, but I could be mistaken.

You are correct. 1:8. Won't handle the 88s or 90s.

 

[Turkeytider]

Thank you sir. First range day today. Zeroed at 100 yards 68 grain Hornady OTM (Frontier) with three, three round sub-MOA groups. She`s a shooter, alright. Looking forward to exploring some 70+ grain loads in the near future and just getting to know the gun and scope better.

I think Tikka`s .223`s are all 1:8, but I could be mistaken.

Dakota, think I might have to disagree with your statement concerning the LRPV and being a " dedicated varmint weight rifle " ! That thing doesn`t lend itself to carrying distances over 10 ft. IMHO! Then again, I guess if you can drive up to the prairie dog town, get out and set up right next to the vehicle, maybe so.

 

[JSHKS]

Interesting this thread has carried on for two years since my first post on it.
I have built and purchased a few more rifles since.
Bought a Badrock, best money I have spent for a long time.
Have now used a Zermatt action and a couple of ARC actions.
Everything has went up in cost and price, new bare Savage actions just weren't the deal they were some years back.
I purchased complete 6BR Savage with original and a prefit. The fellow had put a RB trigger in it. I and two gunsmiths I trust tried to get it to work. Would trip off/slam fire, with even gentle closing. Unnerving is an understatement. Took complete trigger out of another LRP type action, bone stock and no tinkering, it worked fine and was very serviceable.
Parts were removed and the RB trigger installed. All of the problems came back around again. The three of us came to the conclusion there is some different geometry to the LRP trigger than the standard one.
Ordered a JARD and have been completely happy. The JARD replaces ALL of the Savage trigger parts. The folks at JARD were totally helpful to me. I know others have complained.
Trigger Tech is supposed to be working on a Savage trigger. Dunno if they will get it done or not.
No the TT trigger is not a Jewel or Bix and Andy, but what is. The TT is very serviceable in the four rigs I have them in.
See some guys hollering about weight of varmint rigs, lol, you won't want to borrow my 17 Remington, 27" full bull weighted stock is right at 37-38 pounds. Definitely not a walking varmint rig. I can see all of my impacts.
Yeah I spent some $$$$ on the other actions, all were bought on some type of sale. None of my Savages are going anywhere, or will be replaced by an XYZ action.
Hunting critters or around critters with a mouth full of sharp teeth and big claws is a bit different than rodent hunting. I would ot even trust a 700 action in bear country. A Mauser type claw extractor or stay home for me.
Heck on my PD rifles I have taken ejectors out of a couple to keep from flinging brass into the abyss never to be found.
A different tool for a different job the way I see it.

 

[Carey Farmer]

If you read what he says, it has nothing at all to do with small shank/ large shank actions.
But a weakness in the action in the loading port area when used with heavy recoiling cartridges.

I exclusively run Savage's target-style repeater actions that are completely enclosed on the non-bolt side and the top, and have only a narrow loading port on the bolt side. They are very stout actions.

The target-style actions are provided in Model 12 LRP (short action); and Model 110 FCP and LRH in .338 Lapua Magnum or 300 PRC (long action). I'm sure there are others, but those are the models I have bought.

 

[Pointman]

The only negative I would say about the Tactical model is the weight. FOR ME I wouldn't want to carry a heavy rifle out in the tundra. But if your are young and/or are in great shape then it's not an issue. When I went I was in my earlier 30's and was in "okay" shape. I carried a lighter rifle. Good news for you is you could get a light barrel already threaded for a muzzle break and screw it on.

Have to agree on the weight factor with the tactical model. INMO, it is best used from a bench. I shoot my tactical 338 Lapua from a bench testing in a "lead sled," mainly to help with my quest for that mythical .000" group. Other than that, I have no issues with Savage.

 

[Brad Norman]

I post this information for anyone who is using a Savage rifle and is experiencing extraction issues.
Let me explain further:
I own quite a few Savage rifles and several model 110's being among them.
The last one was purchased in September of 2020 and is a Savage Model 110 High Country in 300 Winchester Magnum caliber.
Well, this rifle was causing me major extraction issues with either handloads or factory ammunition. ( I know what you may be thinking and that is my hand-loaded ammunition was loaded hot and in fact, it was loaded to 5% below maximum safe charge weight)
In desperation, I even tried a different recipe using another brand of powder still with the same results.
No matter what I did this problem would not go away. I pulled the extractor and ejector pins after taking the bolt apart and gave all the components a thorough cleaning and light lube with Rem Oilmaking certain to clean the extractor sand ejector springs.
After this, I reassembled the bolt back hoping that I had solved the problem.
After sending 6 rounds down range with no issues the 7th round was a failure to extract.
Never have I experienced a head-scratching problem such as this with any of my other Savage rifles. I even own another 110 rifle in the same caliber without any failure to extract even using the same ammunition as stated above.
Fireformed brass had been neck turned, annealed, Fl resized, trimmed to length, and shoulder bumped -.002" before completion of the hand-loaded ammunition.
After some internet searching, I read that later model 110 Savage rifle were experiencing extraction problems. and that the culprit is a weak extractor coupled with the fact that the extractor ball from the factory is .125" in diameter. and is just not strong enough to function correctly.
The answer is to replace the extractor claw and ball which lies under the extractor with an HD extractor and a .140" diameter 9/64" ball including the new ejector and spring in kit form.
Well, I could not find anyone who had this product in stock which brings me to the point of this post.
I finally found a company that had them in stock and for $ 25.00 + shipping I had a new extractor, as well as an ejector pin and spring package sent to me, and it arrived in only 2 days' time.
FYI:
For those Savage Rifle owners who are experiencing this problem and wish to purchase better extractor and ejector combinations, I post the following.
The name of the company is ( and at last count, they were well-stocked )
Kinney Mfg. Company
23818 Lowe Road
Elon NC 27244

Thank you for sharing your experience Sir and providing the information to fix the problem you encountered. My only problems with the Savage rifles I've owned have been with the extractors and ejectors. For some reason Savage does a really good job and has been quite innovative with other aspects of their rifles but the extractors and ejectors are not robust. Savage would improve their reputation (and eventually sales) significantly if they would make those parts bomb proof.

My problems generally occurred during handload development as I reached the upper end of a warm load, I'd stick an ejector or more often knock the extractor out of position. This same "issue" has not been prevalent with other brands. The little fingernail extractors on Remingtons are also in need of improvement and should be made more "beefy" but Remington extractors have held up much better than Savage's.

This has been my experience with several Savage rifles and of course your mileage may vary.

SF -

 

[Turkeytider]

Thank you for sharing your experience Sir and providing the information to fix the problem you encountered. My only problems with the Savage rifles I've owned have been with the extractors and ejectors. For some reason Savage does a really good job and has been quite innovative with other aspects of their rifles but the extractors and ejectors are not robust. Savage would improve their reputation (and eventually sales) significantly if they would make those parts bomb proof.

My problems generally occurred during handload development as I reached the upper end of a warm load, I'd stick an ejector or more often knock the extractor out of position. This same "issue" has not been prevalent with other brands. The little fingernail extractors on Remingtons are also in need of improvement and should be made more "beefy" but Remington extractors have held up much better than Savage's.

This has been my experience with several Savage rifles and of course your mileage may vary.

SF -

The extractor ball issue has been well documented along with the easy fix. Why it seems to occur with some but certainly not all rifles is indeed a head scratcher. I don`t know if Savage is addressing the issue at manufacture now, but it would certainly be an easy way to address a well known source of customer dissatisfaction.

 

[Brad Norman]

I agree with you Sir. How much extra would it cost for Savage to build a rifle with enhanced ejector / extractor parts? Fifty cents? Even when I wasn't having complete ejector / extractor failures, some of my Savage rifles were weak when shucking spent cases. They would barely fall out of the gun and occasionally a casing would remain in the port and I'd need to tip my rifle to the side or pluck the case out with my finger. That's not satisfactory. When the bolt is pulled rearward, even slowly, an expended casing should still be ejected vigorously and consistently. It's really crazy when a company as sophisticated as Savage can't figure this out.

Happy hunting in Georgia!

SF -

 

[Turkeytider]

I agree with you Sir. How much extra would it cost for Savage to build a rifle with enhanced ejector / extractor parts? Fifty cents? Even when I wasn't having complete ejector / extractor failures, some of my Savage rifles were weak when shucking spent cases. They would barely fall out of the gun and occasionally a casing would remain in the port and I'd need to tip my rifle to the side or pluck the case out with my finger. That's not satisfactory. When the bolt is pulled rearward, even slowly, an expended casing should still be ejected vigorously and consistently. It's really crazy when a company as sophisticated as Savage can't figure this out.

Happy hunting in Georgia!

SF -

I`m fortunate, I guess. My 110 in .223 and 93R17 both extract and eject just fine, although they certainly don`t throw them across the room. My new Model 12 LRPV, however, REALLY kicks them out, though.

 

[Turkeytider]

I agree with you Sir. How much extra would it cost for Savage to build a rifle with enhanced ejector / extractor parts? Fifty cents? Even when I wasn't having complete ejector / extractor failures, some of my Savage rifles were weak when shucking spent cases. They would barely fall out of the gun and occasionally a casing would remain in the port and I'd need to tip my rifle to the side or pluck the case out with my finger. That's not satisfactory. When the bolt is pulled rearward, even slowly, an expended casing should still be ejected vigorously and consistently. It's really crazy when a company as sophisticated as Savage can't figure this out.

Happy hunting in Georgia!

SF -

One of the frustrating things about Savage Arms is their apparent tone deafness when it comes to customer complaints and service after the sale. Commitment to dealing with customer identified issues has to start at the very top and has to be made an essential company goal and priority.
Even diehard fans on Savage Shooters website have commented on the vast room for improvement in this aspect of Savage operations.