Ruger No. 1 LR?

I think the purpose of the forearm hanger was to allow the forearm to be secured without touching the barrel. Unless you have a light, long barrel where harmonics are affecting your accuracy, I think a free floated barrel will work the best provided it's a good quality tube (some of the older No. 1 barrels are not).

Any BTW if you look at the Ruger catalog a 308 American with a 22" barrel is 42" long. A 30-06 is 42.5" A 308 No. 1 with the same 22" barrel is 38.5" long. So if you are willing to live with a 26" barreled bolt gun then you can go 29-1/2 to 30" with the No. 1 and keep the same OAL.

Since you will be rebarreling you can install normal Weaver/Picatinny bases.

6.5 PRC looks like a very good choice. If you are reloading you can go 26 Nosler and just load it down a little for practice/plinking. Full power 26 Nosler loads from a 30" barrel will really reach out.
 
I have a late production Ruger #1A in 7x57 and am very fond of it. The only correction that had to be made from the factory was having the forearm bedded and free floated. After that, it has consistently shot around 3/4" @ 100 yards for 3 shot groups. Set up with a Swarovski 3-9x36 Z3, it is a joy to carry afield. But, I regard it as useful for hunting at normal distances (0 to 400 yards). Its primary virtues consist of its elegance and handling qualities.

Technical matters aside, I think setting realistic expectations should be the first step in planning a Ruger #1 build, especially as a Long Range rifle. With this type of build, there is a high probability that a lot of money will be spent, with the end product being no more than a very nice conventional hunting rifle. If the end product is a viable Long Range rifle, it will be a bonus. If one can accept that idea, then the project is likely to produce a satisfying result. If not, I would strongly recommend against pursuing the project.

Ruger #1's are fine, elegant, beautiful rifles. They deserve to be appreciated for what they are, within their limitations. Shooters who cannot do that often end up cursing them, rather than appreciating them.
 
I have read with interest this thread as I have a Ruger #1 in 6mm Rem that I have had forever. It seems to be partial to Nosler 55 grain and Sierra 85 grain BTHP. It has a Burris 4.5 x 14 scope, and I used it years ago to shoot rock chucks. It has an original red recoil pad and a serial number132-62___. I was wondering if some of could provide some more information about this vintage of this model of the Ruger #1.
Thanks for your time.
 
benchracer said:
...................Technical matters aside, I think setting realistic expectations should be the first step in planning a Ruger #1 build, especially as a Long Range rifle. With this type of build, there is a high probability that a lot of money will be spent, with the end product being no more than a very nice conventional hunting rifle. If the end product is a viable Long Range rifle, it will be a bonus. If one can accept that idea, then the project is likely to produce a satisfying result. If not, I would strongly recommend against pursuing the project..........Ruger #1's are fine, elegant, beautiful rifles. They deserve to be appreciated for what they are, within their limitations. Shooters who cannot do that often end up cursing them, rather than appreciating them.....
Click to expand...

The smart bet is a bolt gun has the better track record for this sort of thing. A big obstacle is fewer builders have done enough No.1's to be proficient in the differences.

Long range builds will be costly as well, not every bolt gun makes the cut either, and we continually alter them.

Most No. 1 owners feel as you, appreciate what they are, to the point alterations are for heretics.

This subject has come up a couple of times, I've never really considered it seriously, and their place in the safe has been for other purposes.

Maybe it's being locked down, range closed etc., but this idea is growing on me a bit.
 
I have seen one on the internet I think it was accurate shooter 6mm br octagon barrel tapered to round barrel and always wanted to have my no.1 re-barreled like that but I know I can put money in Rem 700 and it will most likely shoot where I point it
 
I have had two in the .243Win, one in .257Wby, one in 6.5x284N, one in 25-06 and still have one in 300 Weatherby. One of the 243s was a red pad and was pretty inconsistent, but with great lumber. The rest of my exposure is with black pads from the 90s all the way to the quite current 257 and 6.5 norma. All but the one were sub minute guns with more than one load. The one I have kept in the 300 Roy eats anything, has a rare great factory trigger and fabulous wood. I seldom drag it out cause it gets along with gravity better than most of my guns (seems like it weighs 20 pounds). The pet load is running 165 Sciroccos in the 3300 neighborhood and it will put 5 holes inside 3 inches at 400 yards with regularity. It does have the rail, but I put a Vortex viper 4-16x44 and the eye relief on that scope was made for the Ruger #1B. My last trip out with this gun was a few years ago now. I filled my South Dakota mule deer tag at 457 yards. Point of aim was 2 inches posterior and 2 inches up from the point of his elbow and impact was just 2" up from that. It does have a brake and I saw the impact. He went stiff legged and tipped straight over. My father in law used the same gun the next evening to his super wide 3x3 at just under 400 yards. I would trust this gun to 600 yards without a second thought.
 
Quintus, my 6mm has the red pad and when you say that your 243 Win was pretty inconsistent what are you referring too. Did you try and correct whatever was making it inconsistent and were you successful? Thanks, Tom
 
Bingoc said:
Quintus, my 6mm has the red pad and when you say that your 243 Win was pretty inconsistent what are you referring too. Did you try and correct whatever was making it inconsistent and were you successful? Thanks, Tom
Click to expand...
It had a 6 pound trigger with a great deal of creep, and I could not find a scope with enough eye relief to shoot without craning my neck. It may have been me more than the gun, but some day s it would group and some days it would pattern. I didn't have the dough to chase issues back then especially if was just my in-ability to shoot it well. Down the road it went. My next number one, also a .243 had a bad, but not quite as bad trigger and I still had an eye relief issue, but that one shot very well. as with all my #1s except the 300 it was too beautiful to hunt and got traded off. My 300 is gorgeous too, and I will probably send it on to a more enthusiastic user one day soon as well.
 
Bed is so the forend touches nowhere except on the action front and forend hanger. Has worked on 20+ for me.

1Vs and Tropicals don't care, they just shoot well.
 
AlphaDogs said:
Bed is so the forend touches nowhere except on the action front and forend hanger. Has worked on 20+ for me.

1Vs and Tropicals don't care, they just shoot well.
Click to expand...

AlphaDogs,
What differences have you found between No. 1A and No. 1B, say in
.30-06 or .300 win mag?
 
The only 1A I have is a 7x57. I avoid 1As as they are loud and kick a lot. The 7x57 will shoot 2 touching and then starts to string. I bought it for its fantastic wood (red pad) and probably will never hunt it.
 
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