Ruger M77 30-06 upgrades

Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Messages
9
Location
Butte, Montana
Hello all

I'd like to do some upgrades to my very first hunting rifle and looking for recommendations. It's more of a sentimental thing but would like to stretch the effective range as much as possible. Anyone upgrade one of these rifles before and have any recommendations?
 
This is a M77 Tang Safety in 300 WM.
Hart Barrel, McMillan Mcwoody,
Gentry brake, Rifle Basix sear.

These were the first 5 shots after the new barrel was spun on...It's a shooter.

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Dylan, if for sentimental reasons do you want total rebuild or subtle changes. My son bought a never fired 77 tang in .270 Win which he's not even put a scope on. He has six other 77's which underwent makeovers. What's your budget?
 
Yep, replacing the factory trigger is a good move. If you have the skills and tools (and if your factory stock is wood or laminate), bedding the action is very worthwhile. When you are ready for a re-barrel, do yourself a favor and have a Murphy Precision picatinny rail installed.
 
Yep, replacing the factory trigger is a good move. If you have the skills and tools (and if your factory stock is wood or laminate), bedding the action is very worthwhile. When you are ready for a re-barrel, do yourself a favor and have a Murphy Precision picatinny rail installed.
Agreed! It has been a few years ago but I replaced the paddle board type stock on my Ruger M77 MKII with B&C (IIRC it was the carbelite ???) and trigger from http://www.spec-tech-industries.com/m77mkii-triggers.html and made a world of difference. There are more trigger choices now to choose from. No personal experience with it but another option to the rail system is the Weig-a-tinny rail (https://www.jackweigand.com/Ruger-M77-MKII-Rifle-Scope-Mounts-No-Drill.html).
 
Dylan,

Is this the older tang safety M77? If it is Murphy Precision doesn't make a rail for it.

Nothing wrong with factory rings. See no advantage in using a picatinny rail. IMO it would raise the height of the scope for a poor cheek weld especially with the factory stock.

I own three tang safety rifles. All have McMillan stocks. I would suggest you get a McMillan Hunter stock with a decelerator pad. It has a nice fit with a slightly higher cheek piece and a palm swell. Then get it bedded.

One thing you could do is have a gunsmith lengthen the existing mag box. I had it done with all three of my M77s.

Timney a good trigger for the M77s.
 
If you can extend the mag box that will help with shooting the heavies. My box is stock. It likes the jump that the LRX needs. I was looking into this, but it shoots well enough with a saami length.

I tried the Wigatinny and did not like it. Felt like it just did not secure to the rifle like the standard rings. Also made the scope sit really high so proper eye relief/cheek weld was not very consistent without a pad.
 
Which M77 is it ? The Tang safety or the Mk2 ? I had a tang safety in 280 Rem that was scarey accurate .
I've also had several Mk2 s and Hawkeye models that were 1/2 moa rifles with loads they liked.
The Spec Teck trigger is a very good upgrade.
 
I have a Ruger m77 MKII in 30-06 as well, and it came in a really nice laminate wood stock. If you have a laminate wood stock i would keep it as they work well, and you will see no improvement going to another brand of stock, other than cosmetics.

Also in my experience playing with the Ruger action the only thing bedding does is lighten your wallet. They pull themselves down and into the stock with the front screw, as long as it is torqued properly it should be good to go.

the best improvements you can make is modify your factory trigger (is very easy to lighten the pull of the factory trigger), or install an aftermarket trigger to your liking. Here is a link on how to setup the factory trigger: https://www.varminthunters.com/tech/ruger77trigger.html

Then install a slightly heavier barrel. If you like doing it yourself you can actually install barrels that are setup for the Ruger American onto your action. It uses a barrel nut so you can install it by yourself with a go gauge, and no need for a gunsmith. The heavier barrel helped me as the factory barrel would shoot 3 shots 3/4 moa, but after that would open up from heat. The thicker aftermarket barrel does not do this.
 
Oh and also don't waste your money on the Picatinny rails. They really are a waste of money. Hell if you want one i have one for a short action I will sell you.

But my advice would be to simply use the factory Ruger rings, as they work well and keep the scope lower. I believe Burris also makes rings.
 
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