Ruger #1 Re-chamber?

[DONTSTROKEME]

I have a #1 in 7 RM and it has a very long throat, I can't seat 140gr Nosler Ballistic tips in it with my Stoney Point tool. I was wondering if I could re-chamber it to a new cartridge...possibly the 7 STW?

Any help or ideas would be great.

Joe Oakes

 

[lazylabs]

STW would work. The cost would be around $100-$150 or $400+ and have the barrel replaced and go with any caliber any length.

 

[Buffalobob]

The extractor will be for a mag bolt face. If you are going to spend the money on a new chamber you might as well get a new custom barrel. Be careful on selecting the contour because it has to clear the forearm hanger. It may require some special machining to get the scope base to fit properly.

 

[sniper2]

I have a friend who built 3 ruger 1's in 338/378 wby and ran into the items you listed they all shoot great and with 30" Hart barrels are easy to handle...

 

[Buffalobob]

Mine is going into the shop sometime before Christmas for a special barrel.

 

[lazylabs]

If you go with a custom barrel and stay around a 5 countour the original 1/4 rib will work with very little fitting. 6 countour you have to machine quite a bit off the front of the rib. Larger countour you use a two piece base like the varmit models have, some think that is a more stable and accurate setup for any barrel size. I screw the hanger to the bottom of the barrel with a spacer to prevent it from flexing and causing you pressure problems. I have a couple 300 ultra's with 30"+brake and they shoot good. If you use the burris signature rings with offset inserts you don't have to be as precise with your ring hights and still make it work.

 

[Buffalobob]

Lazylabs

Are you saying you cut the foreend hanger off of the action and then attach it to the underside of the barrel?

 

[DONTSTROKEME]

Who would be able to rechamber it. The reason would be that it is cheaper than a new barrel.

JOe Oakes

 

[Buffalobob]

First, I am not sure any gunsmith will give you their normal accuracy guarantee being as it is a #1 and because it is using the factory barrel.

I do not know the west coast gunsmiths other than the ones on this site. If you want to drive it somewhere then Shawn Carlock is the closest and you could send him an email about it and see what he has to say.

Remember that the front quarter rib screw holes in the barrel have to remain lined up or else you are in big trouble so I would not let just any ole body do this work. You need somebody who will get it right or make it right.

 

[lazylabs]

I don't cut the hanger off and you can't becuase of the main spring. Just under the far end(muzzle direction) of the main spring attachment I mill a flat on top of the hanger and drill a clearance hole and then drill and tap a barrel in the bottom of the barrel. Make a "washer" that is contoured to fit between the bottom of the barrel and the flat on top of the hanger. Drill a through hole in the square spacer/washer and put the screw the clearance hole in the hanger and washer and into the threaded hole in the barrel. The screw head can't stick up much or it will interfere with the mainspring. I usually epoxy bed the top of the washer to maintain full contact with the bottom of the barrel. It seems to work better than the tension screws and other ways of dealing with the hanger/forearm issue that is common with the #1's. Then you can bed and free float the wood off the barrel.