Rough chamber?

FrogFire7 said:
I appreciate the thought, but should be well under max with my powder charge. I just tried 38 grains again with the same issue. Attached pic of case head.

I spoke with the barrel smith, he was very willing to take it back and clean it up. Offered some other suggestions as well to try.
Click to expand...
Start with him cleaning it up first would be my suggestion....it's not going to clean itself up!
 
charles bonner said:
That chamber is terrible. They will need to set it back one thread and recut the shoulder then rechamber it. Pressure has nothing to do with it until you have a smooth surface chamber. Then you can work up a load.
Click to expand...
A smooth surface chamber is not ideal, I'l stick with too much pressure.
 
FrogFire7 said:
Thank you for the input. That's basically what I suspected...

Am I on the right track with my train of thought as to why it is extracting so hard? I'm a somewhat experienced handloader and this situation is pretty new to me. I'm just not seeing pressure signs otherwise on the brass. I figure if the brass is gripping the chamber hard enough, there naturally would be some swipe as the bolt turns on the case head...
Click to expand...
Had the same problem with a 6 creedmoor and lines in the brass so I cut a wooden rod and polished the bore with 1000 grit and wd 40 and solved the problem the bolt lift said over pressure but no signs on the brass on are on the right track I will bet you 10 primers
 
Ya, that's no good, I wouldn't cut another chamber with that reamer. Looks like the chamber flush didn't clear chips on one of the passes and it built up from there. I would not polish that kinda mess out cause you'll have a fatter chamber than you already do. I'd set that back the distance of the neck at least or more so the chamber was fresh cause it's all bad, you can not just set back one turn and fix that right. I probably would have replaced the barrel!!
 
It seems that you folks on this thread know a thing or two about a rough chamber.
The OP also seems to have his query/problem in the right direction.
So.....not to hijack (but I guess I am, sorry OP) what say all of you to my thoughts that I would also take a short cleaning rod w/ a .410 cotton swab on it soaked w/ flitz to remove a rust spot on my stainless Tikka chamber? Any pitfalls here? Recommendations?
Thanks in advance.
 
Are you sure it's a rust spot and not some gummed up solvent or oil? I'd try some brake clean or some alcohol on the swab first before I went to abrasives.
 
spladi said:
A smooth surface chamber is not ideal, I'l stick with too much pressure.
Click to expand...
No ejector mark, no swipe, rounded primer edges, rounded firing pin impact edges, no crater......

Terrible rings around the shoulder, obvious scratches in the chamber imprinted on the brass.

It's not pressure......once the smith fixes the chamber up right (hopeful for the op....) then that load will eject fine and without bolt lift. I'll up the stakes......20 primers!!!!! GM215M's too.....ha ha.
 
Looks like a Savage I had come into the shop not long ago- though not quite as ugly.

tlgtIU1l.jpg


YcrNgTAl.jpg


As already stated, it needs to go back to whomever chambered it for it to be set back and re-chambered.
Assuming the barrel is engraved, it'll need to be set back a full thread so that it clocks the same as originally.
 

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