• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

rl 33 in 7mag with 180s

AZshooter!
Yes, I had Jeremy from gunwerks email me this exact thing but to my knowledge gunwerks will not exchange old lot brass with new and I have 250 pcs of old lot. And cannot bring myself to pay the money for that many new pcs of brass again. This will be my last gun where hornady brass is my only choice
 
I would give Gunwerks a call and ask questions. Did you also buy the die set from them? If you have the thicker brass the supplied neck bushing size was also wrong for the thicker brass giving you very difficult seating as well as the improper neck clearance as I mentioned in the other post. Have you determined that you actually have the thicker brass?

Who's reamer did you use? If it was also Gunwerks I think you will be able to talk them into exchanging the brass. After all THEY missed this mistake when they sent you an incompatible setup. It is THEIR proprietary cartridge and you paid plenty of money to get it. IT SHOULD WORK. IMO If you have the thicker brass the rifle is not going to yield the accuracy with the velocity it should have.

You are not the only one who had this happen. My friend Casey, here in Tucson, had to deal with this issue after several agonizing loading and range sessions puzzling over what was wrong. Unfortunately he had his rifle built by a local gunsmith that used his own reamer so Casey never pursued a solution from Gunwerks. A mutual friend neck turned all of Casey's brass solving his issue.

If you cannot get satisfaction from Gunwerks:

This situation can be salvaged by neck turning. Unfortunately it will take some time and money. Some of the handloaders here turn necks with custom chambers and consider it part of the process.


Do you know the chamber neck dimension? Who ever used/owned the reamer should know that value. Next measure the outside diameter of several loaded rounds. The difference should be how much neck release you have. From my readings .004" (.002" per side) total difference is absolute minimum for a hunting rifle 006"(.003" per side) is better. Heck you won't have any issues if you make an even larger clearance but no need to go past .008"(.004" per side)

All that is necessary is to turn the necks for a bit more bullet release clearance. I know turning is tedious but it only has to be done once. The bushing may also have to be switched to the correct size depending on how much brass is removed.

I use the K and M system. I see they now offer a kit with a box. Very nice.
Neck Turner Kit - Complete Kits - Reloading Accessories - Accessories

As for turning them you need the mandrel for expanding the necks to fit the pilot on the turner. I used an old lyman chuck off my case trimmer which I hold in a vice to hold the brass. You may need to buy their brass holder. A bit of imperial sizing wax and an accurate measuring tool and you can turn those necks yourself.

Link from Accurate shooter on how to neck turn:

Neck-Turning Basics within AccurateShooter.com

tips on cutting:
Neck-Turning Tool Cutting Tips within AccurateShooter.com

I would like to hear what happens next. Please post things here.

I wish you the best on this issue.

Ross
 
I would give Gunwerks a call and ask questions. Did you also buy the die set from them? If you have the thicker brass the supplied neck bushing size was also wrong for the thicker brass giving you very difficult seating as well as the improper neck clearance as I mentioned in the other post. Have you determined that you actually have the thicker brass?

Who's reamer did you use? If it was also Gunwerks I think you will be able to talk them into exchanging the brass. After all THEY missed this mistake when they sent you an incompatible setup. It is THEIR proprietary cartridge and you paid plenty of money to get it. IT SHOULD WORK. IMO If you have the thicker brass the rifle is not going to yield the accuracy with the velocity it should have.

You are not the only one who had this happen. My friend Casey, here in Tucson, had to deal with this issue after several agonizing loading and range sessions puzzling over what was wrong. Unfortunately he had his rifle built by a local gunsmith that used his own reamer so Casey never pursued a solution from Gunwerks. A mutual friend neck turned all of Casey's brass solving his issue.

If you cannot get satisfaction from Gunwerks:

This situation can be salvaged by neck turning. Unfortunately it will take some time and money. Some of the handloaders here turn necks with custom chambers and consider it part of the process.


Do you know the chamber neck dimension? Who ever used/owned the reamer should know that value. Next measure the outside diameter of several loaded rounds. The difference should be how much neck release you have. From my readings .004" (.002" per side) total difference is absolute minimum for a hunting rifle 006"(.003" per side) is better. Heck you won't have any issues if you make an even larger clearance but no need to go past .008"(.004" per side)

All that is necessary is to turn the necks for a bit more bullet release clearance. I know turning is tedious but it only has to be done once. The bushing may also have to be switched to the correct size depending on how much brass is removed.

I use the K and M system. I see they now offer a kit with a box. Very nice.
Neck Turner Kit - Complete Kits - Reloading Accessories - Accessories

As for turning them you need the mandrel for expanding the necks to fit the pilot on the turner. I used an old lyman chuck off my case trimmer which I hold in a vice to hold the brass. You may need to buy their brass holder. A bit of imperial sizing wax and an accurate measuring tool and you can turn those necks yourself.

Link from Accurate shooter on how to neck turn:

Neck-Turning Basics within AccurateShooter.com

tips on cutting:
Neck-Turning Tool Cutting Tips within AccurateShooter.com

I would like to hear what happens next. Please post things here.

I wish you the best on this issue.

Ross

I haven't gone through the process of contacting gunwerks yet to talk about the problem that they know about, I will try to contact them next week sometime. I had a local smith do the work for me and as far as I know he used a reamer direct from Gunwerks. I will try to contact them and see if they will replace the brass or if nothing else maybe send it to them and get them to turn the necks on their dime both ways. The gun is a shooter so if I can get the problem fixed I might like it even more, once I get my velocity up where it should be.

Ill keep you posted on what happens...
 
7 R.E.M. 28" 195 Berger 74.0 rl 33 fed gm215
I have a Wyatt box and thought is cut for 180 hybrid
2903 fps under 5 es

Good luck
 
I have a 7mm wildcat very similar to the LRM. I am loading 78 gr. Rl33 and pushing 180 Bergers at 3110. No pressure signs. 26 in barrel.
 
For the 180 hybrid, the best load I have found is 180 hybrid with h 1000 69.5 fed gm215m, 3010 feet per second. Es 9
My rifle has a 28"
Retumbo is not good with the 180 es are to high
 
I would give Gunwerks a call and ask questions. Did you also buy the die set from them? If you have the thicker brass the supplied neck bushing size was also wrong for the thicker brass giving you very difficult seating as well as the improper neck clearance as I mentioned in the other post. Have you determined that you actually have the thicker brass?

Who's reamer did you use? If it was also Gunwerks I think you will be able to talk them into exchanging the brass. After all THEY missed this mistake when they sent you an incompatible setup. It is THEIR proprietary cartridge and you paid plenty of money to get it. IT SHOULD WORK. IMO If you have the thicker brass the rifle is not going to yield the accuracy with the velocity it should have.

You are not the only one who had this happen. My friend Casey, here in Tucson, had to deal with this issue after several agonizing loading and range sessions puzzling over what was wrong. Unfortunately he had his rifle built by a local gunsmith that used his own reamer so Casey never pursued a solution from Gunwerks. A mutual friend neck turned all of Casey's brass solving his issue.

If you cannot get satisfaction from Gunwerks:

This situation can be salvaged by neck turning. Unfortunately it will take some time and money. Some of the handloaders here turn necks with custom chambers and consider it part of the process.


Do you know the chamber neck dimension? Who ever used/owned the reamer should know that value. Next measure the outside diameter of several loaded rounds. The difference should be how much neck release you have. From my readings .004" (.002" per side) total difference is absolute minimum for a hunting rifle 006"(.003" per side) is better. Heck you won't have any issues if you make an even larger clearance but no need to go past .008"(.004" per side)

All that is necessary is to turn the necks for a bit more bullet release clearance. I know turning is tedious but it only has to be done once. The bushing may also have to be switched to the correct size depending on how much brass is removed.

I use the K and M system. I see they now offer a kit with a box. Very nice.
Neck Turner Kit - Complete Kits - Reloading Accessories - Accessories

As for turning them you need the mandrel for expanding the necks to fit the pilot on the turner. I used an old lyman chuck off my case trimmer which I hold in a vice to hold the brass. You may need to buy their brass holder. A bit of imperial sizing wax and an accurate measuring tool and you can turn those necks yourself.

Link from Accurate shooter on how to neck turn:

Neck-Turning Basics within AccurateShooter.com

tips on cutting:
Neck-Turning Tool Cutting Tips within AccurateShooter.com

I would like to hear what happens next. Please post things here.

I wish you the best on this issue.

Ross


UPDATE:

I talked to Garrett at Gunwerks today, the only question he asked was how many pieces of brass I had, and said he would send out 200 pieces to replace the old brass I had at no charge to me except the shipping on my end. He even told me to keep the ones I had that are already loaded to, but I'm going to pull bullets and send them back anyway. Total came out to about $394 on their end to replace my brass. Only problem I have now is staring all over from scratch a month before hunting season, but that's a cheap problem compared to buying all new brass.

THANKS GUNWERKS!!!!!!!!
 
Warning! This thread is more than 9 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top