Rifle stock fill
- Thread starter cmor_15
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DakotaFire101
Well-Known Member
I've used a lot of different things but good ol fashion expanding foam works pretty good. Leave plenty of room to bed the barrel channel later. I've also used a plain bondo with air beads mixed in with it and that works pretty well too. Depending on how large the gaps are you could potentionally get away with simply bedding the barrel channel and with a couple layers of pvc pipe wrap tape on the barrel allowing for a nice free float.
I have laid double sided tape (for thickness) with the plastic layer left in place along my barrel and then used the same bedding material (agriglass, Devcon, etc) to fill the void. It makes a very clean and consistent channel.
cmor_15
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- Jul 6, 2011
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I was consider using the great stuff foam. Does a guy need to worry about those products reacting with the fill of the stock and wearing it?
DakotaFire101
Well-Known Member
Not at all. That stuff sticks to everything, use the high density kind to fill most of the gap leaving yourself about 1/16 gap and then skim bed over top of that. Brownells sells 10 mil pipe wrap tape that works very well for bedding barrel channels and leaving a consistent free float. Two layers of that on the barrel about 2 inches forward of the recoil lug and you'll be good to go.
For aesthetics, the gaps on the side of the barrel and at the end are more important to fill than beneath. What type of stock do you have?
It should be easily done with epoxy bedding material and foam if required Depending on how flexible your stock and barrel are, you might need to leave more of a gap between the barrel and bedding. That equates to a lot of tape. +1 for finding 20 mil plus tape. I have some 3M material that is good for layering up and stretching a bit to fit the contour.
If you do epoxy over foam fill, hold the foam down on the sides of the barrel so that portion can be solid epoxy.
It should be easily done with epoxy bedding material and foam if required Depending on how flexible your stock and barrel are, you might need to leave more of a gap between the barrel and bedding. That equates to a lot of tape. +1 for finding 20 mil plus tape. I have some 3M material that is good for layering up and stretching a bit to fit the contour.
If you do epoxy over foam fill, hold the foam down on the sides of the barrel so that portion can be solid epoxy.
Buy a stock that fits...less to go wrong! And better looking.
Take for instance a Manners cf stock, speaking to different dealers they come or what they had available was a stock made for the proof sendero. If you had one made more specific good luck on a year long wait.
cmor_15
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- Jul 6, 2011
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Well if I can get a stock at a quarter of the price of new and not wait a year for it. Why not go this route? Especially it the times we are in now save some coins is probly a good idea!
DakotaFire101
Well-Known Member
I've been thinking about doing a YouTube channel centered around stock modifications and complete stock building as there doesn't seem to be much out there. Feel free to pm me with any questions.
Frenchie1
Well-Known Member
I once opened up a Remington Mountain rifle stock channel to fit a sporter contour channel and used the method you speak of. I know that sounds crazy but I had replaced the Mtn Rifle stock with an aftermarket stock and gave it to my son, then because I still love the feel of the wood Mtn rifle stock and the fact I had an old Bdl and some time during the winter, I forged ahead.
I'd probably tape up the barrel to obtain the clearance desired (for free-float), coat with release agent to use as a "form" for the epoxy fill.
Mix up West System (206 slow hardener) with colloidal silica and microballoons to a peanut butter consistency.
Tape up the sides and top edge of the stock.
Depending on how much/depth of your fill, this may need to be done in two or more applications to avoid the epoxy exotherming which will happen if laid in too thick, and depending on ambient temperature.
Just like bedding an action- lay in the barrel, scrape off the squeeze-out.
When cured, remove the barreled action, remove the tape, re-install and check for free-float clearance.
The only "tough" part would be matching the finish at the top and forend where exposed- if you care about it
Mix up West System (206 slow hardener) with colloidal silica and microballoons to a peanut butter consistency.
Tape up the sides and top edge of the stock.
Depending on how much/depth of your fill, this may need to be done in two or more applications to avoid the epoxy exotherming which will happen if laid in too thick, and depending on ambient temperature.
Just like bedding an action- lay in the barrel, scrape off the squeeze-out.
When cured, remove the barreled action, remove the tape, re-install and check for free-float clearance.
The only "tough" part would be matching the finish at the top and forend where exposed- if you care about it
This, except I use MAS epoxy. The micro balloons make the fill extremely light weight. I also laid in several carbon arrow shafts and straightened as well as stiffened up the forend.I'd probably tape up the barrel to obtain the clearance desired (for free-float), coat with release agent to use as a "form" for the epoxy fill.
Mix up West System (206 slow hardener) with colloidal silica and microballoons to a peanut butter consistency.
Tape up the sides and top edge of the stock.
Depending on how much/depth of your fill, this may need to be done in two or more applications to avoid the epoxy exotherming which will happen if laid in too thick, and depending on ambient temperature.
Just like bedding an action- lay in the barrel, scrape off the squeeze-out.
When cured, remove the barreled action, remove the tape, re-install and check for free-float clearance.
The only "tough" part would be matching the finish at the top and forend where exposed- if you care about it
