woodnut
Well-Known Member
I shoot 300, 340, and 970 yds. Using this method, I can always count on accurate shots at those ranges.
Rifle Cleaning Procedure & Products?
- Thread starter Brydawg512
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
Given you compare the same caliber, A Remington 700 will differ from a Savage 110. Likewise, a custom Brux barrel in the same caliber may differ from another custom barrel maker. Some custom barrels are rough inside, and the barrel should be bore scoped and culled when necessary.
My Remington 700s in 7 Rem mag, start seeing an accuracy decrease at 300 somewhere in the relm of 40 rounds where they shoot 1.5" groups in a dead calm and 2.5-3.5" at 600 with 140g Ballistic tips and accubonds.
My Krieger 308 shoots 3/4" at 300, and somewhere around 60 rounds, it opens up to 1.5", but I have no idea how long it will hold a 1.5" group.
The Rem 25/06 factory barrel starts to copper up and accuracy degrades somewhere around 25 rounds.
I had a savage 116 with beautiful wood in 7 Rem mag. Sharp shooter pillar bedded it and put one of his triggers on the action and that gun would shoot sub 3/8" groups for 9 shots, then start slinging shots due to excessive copper fouling. The barrel on this beautiful savage was unbelievably rough. I was scared to lap the barrel it was so accurate. A good friend bought the rifle, where he shoots turtles off of his pond with it.
With the various target rifles I have, all with custom barrels, each will have it's own cussed cleaning regiment, and I never shoot them till the accuracy starts to fall off.
My advise, find a Heat Index chart for powders, and choose a powder that is one of the cooler burning powders. You will have at least 30% more barrel life by choosing a cooler burning powder plus more money in your pocket from less (easier)cleaning products used and gunsmith expense.
I rode mules with a guy in Az when I lived there. He never cleaned his rifle and carried his ammo in a coffee can with who knows what kind of projectile weights and brands. I tweeked his 7 Mag where it was shooting a bug hole, loaded his ammo, and he never shot more than one shot on deer, elk, and Javelina. He told me one day in confidence that he was not having any where near the fun he used to have when he had to shoot 5-8 rounds on an animal. Go figure, takes all types, if you don't give a crap, it is your hobby.
My Remington 700s in 7 Rem mag, start seeing an accuracy decrease at 300 somewhere in the relm of 40 rounds where they shoot 1.5" groups in a dead calm and 2.5-3.5" at 600 with 140g Ballistic tips and accubonds.
My Krieger 308 shoots 3/4" at 300, and somewhere around 60 rounds, it opens up to 1.5", but I have no idea how long it will hold a 1.5" group.
The Rem 25/06 factory barrel starts to copper up and accuracy degrades somewhere around 25 rounds.
I had a savage 116 with beautiful wood in 7 Rem mag. Sharp shooter pillar bedded it and put one of his triggers on the action and that gun would shoot sub 3/8" groups for 9 shots, then start slinging shots due to excessive copper fouling. The barrel on this beautiful savage was unbelievably rough. I was scared to lap the barrel it was so accurate. A good friend bought the rifle, where he shoots turtles off of his pond with it.
With the various target rifles I have, all with custom barrels, each will have it's own cussed cleaning regiment, and I never shoot them till the accuracy starts to fall off.
My advise, find a Heat Index chart for powders, and choose a powder that is one of the cooler burning powders. You will have at least 30% more barrel life by choosing a cooler burning powder plus more money in your pocket from less (easier)cleaning products used and gunsmith expense.
I rode mules with a guy in Az when I lived there. He never cleaned his rifle and carried his ammo in a coffee can with who knows what kind of projectile weights and brands. I tweeked his 7 Mag where it was shooting a bug hole, loaded his ammo, and he never shot more than one shot on deer, elk, and Javelina. He told me one day in confidence that he was not having any where near the fun he used to have when he had to shoot 5-8 rounds on an animal. Go figure, takes all types, if you don't give a crap, it is your hobby.
Solid.
LRNut
Well-Known Member
Boresnakes are like lead sleds: do more harm than good.
No one mentioned using a one-piece coated rod. Pretty important.
One other thing no one mentioned is muzzle brakes - they will often cause a patch to look like it's dirty but it is actually becuase it is contacting the brake.
I use BoreTech products in CO and KG in AZ. Both work well but I prefer BoreTech. I typically clean first using carbon solvent. Push a patch through, wait 15 minutes, and repeat until the patch comes out clean. Then I dry the barrel and repeat with copper solvent. When a patch comes clean after soaking for at least 30 minutes, it is clean.
No one mentioned using a one-piece coated rod. Pretty important.
One other thing no one mentioned is muzzle brakes - they will often cause a patch to look like it's dirty but it is actually becuase it is contacting the brake.
I use BoreTech products in CO and KG in AZ. Both work well but I prefer BoreTech. I typically clean first using carbon solvent. Push a patch through, wait 15 minutes, and repeat until the patch comes out clean. Then I dry the barrel and repeat with copper solvent. When a patch comes clean after soaking for at least 30 minutes, it is clean.
