Rifle canting and levels

[RockyMtnMT]

If the level is attached to the scope and the scope is level to the world based on the vertical reticle how does one verify the rifle is level to the world?

By putting a level on a square part of the receiver and a level on the elevation turret and then level the scope level to the other two.

Steve

 

[Clucknmoan]

I put my rifle in a vise and compare a few places to make sure the action is level, varies on location depending on the action. Then put another level on the turret and adjust till it matches the action level. Lastly I put the butt of the rifle/vise against a white wall that I have a plumb bob hanging on and shine a flashlight through the objective. It casts a shadow from the reticle onto the wall, compare this reticle shadow with the plumb line. This way I can make sure the actual reticle is level, not just the turret cap.

Goes to the range next and to a tall target to verify it is level with the action/bore and that the scope elevates the exact amount it should for the given elevation dialed at the target distance.

Follow the tall target test directions posted above, they are spot on. If find you are shooting left at 10 mil elevation, loosen rings and rotate the scope slightly clockwise then perform the test again.

 

[280remington]

I totally understand your pain. I have been going through the samething. When you get it worked out, please post what you do/did.

 

[Rich Coyle]

There is a pump house 127 yards from my porch. I put the scope on a sandbag on the edge of the porch and adjusted it till the reticle was parallel with the corner. I adjusted the level till it was level. Then the scope was installed on the rifle that was in a rifle cradle. I looked through the bore and moved it until the bore was bisected by the corner of the pump house. At this point I tightened the scope down making sure the level stayed level and the vertical reticle was on the corner of the pump house and the bore bisected the corner of the pump house.

 

[Wild Bill G]

How do you know that pump house wall is level. There are scope mounting kit out there that make this fairly easy.

 

[Rich Coyle]

There are construction levels as accurate as a tiny level one would put on their action. You can hold it against the wall to verify it is level. Whether you are working on a cinder block wall or a frame wall.

 

[brody04]

here are a couple articles for you to read . these might help you out . Jim


https://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/reticle-perpendicularity.34/


https://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/how-canting-your-rifle-affects-long-range-accuracy.124/

thanks for the links, back to the range for me.

 

[Bravo 4]

I think you are doing something right by using the plumb line, you just have to make sure your action is level first (as stated). Or what's the point? The whole purpose is to make sure the center of the bore and your reticle line up as perfect as possible. That way when you make an adjustment with your turrets, it moves straight up/down or left/right with the bore. This is where a scope/rail mounted bubble level (anti-cant device) comes into play, to make sure you do not have the rifle canted when you fire. Or line of sight and line of departure are oriented to different points.

Using the scope's turret for a place to set your level when mounting the rifle scope may not be the best place, it may not be totally level (with a little manufacturing error built in).
On the other hand there is also the possibility that your reticle may be canted inside the scope a degree or two (or three, this is apparently acceptable to some manufacturers...
Leupold).
This is one reason to do the tall target test. Just because the reticle is in line with the bore doesn't mean the adjustments will be. Gotta fudge it sometimes. Good time to test the scope's tracking too. Which is another issue...
Just stop while you're still sane!
Just kidding of course!

 

[brody04]

^^what do you think is the most reliable method for making sure the action is level. thanks

 

[Bravo 4]

Depends on the action, most will have rails cut into the action for the bolt (head/lugs) to ride. A piece of bar stock can be placed down the action (like the bolt would ride) and you can place a level on it. The kits that can be placed in the ejection port with a level attached work the same way, maybe something for you to look into.
Not all actions are like this, the little Ruger American I just bought is an example.

 

[brody04]

thanks, I will check into the leveling kits

 

[bota]

You can also level the rifle using a level on the scope bases or rings before putting the scope on. Or you can use a feeler gauge between the bottom of the scope (assuming there is a flat spot under the turret) and a pic rail base. None of these methods are perfect, but if it all works repeatedly at the range then you are good to go.

 

[WildRose]

There is a pump house 127 yards from my porch. I put the scope on a sandbag on the edge of the porch and adjusted it till the reticle was parallel with the corner. I adjusted the level till it was level. Then the scope was installed on the rifle that was in a rifle cradle. I looked through the bore and moved it until the bore was bisected by the corner of the pump house. At this point I tightened the scope down making sure the level stayed level and the vertical reticle was on the corner of the pump house and the bore bisected the corner of the pump house.

You need to put a level on a square part of the receiver as suggested above to ensure the scope is level and centered square and true to the bore. If you are even slightly off at this point the error is seriously magnified when you start dialing up for elevation at range.

 

[WildRose]

thanks, I will check into the leveling kits

Len sells a tricky little gadget that works great through his store.

Segway Reticle Leveling tool


It's so simple it's stupid.