Remington trigger spring kit

[bigngreen]

Guys, it's the trigger, it's thee part that's between go and no go, you screw one up bad enough to feel it's wrong your way of the reservation and well beyond safe. Changing springs is just stupid, if the design fails with the original why would you feel confident in lighter ones, I'm trying not to offend anyone but I've seen the results more than once of people screwing with triggers and it's absolutely the stupidest thing you can do, it's why I won't install Trigger Techs into Rems, they fail from time to time, that's just a straight up no go!!

 

[Dr. Vette]

So I wanted to go this route because I know it works. A top gunsmith in Oregon upgraded one my triggers and it works great. I also own Timney and Trigger Tech and see very little difference in operation. I can afford a new trigger but wanted to try a upgrade. If for any reason I feel the trigger is unsafe it will go in the garbage.
Thanks to all those that replied!

I've got one (1) Remington trigger that was modified by a well-known competition gunsmith.
It works great, but would I try one on my own? Nope

FYI, I tweak Weatherby Mark V and Vanguard triggers regularly, so its not like I don't do trigger work.

 

[Jeffrthehunter]

Thanks for all the help!

 

[jebel]

it's why I won't install Trigger Techs into Rems, they fail from time to time

bigngreen,
After your comment I did some searching on this site trying to find more about potential TriggerTech challenges in Remingtons, but didn't come up with anything. Can you point me to something to learn more about this, or share your thoughts further?
Thanks

 

[jebel]

bigngreen,
After your comment I did some searching on this site trying to find more about potential TriggerTech challenges in Remingtons, but didn't come up with anything. Can you point me to something to learn more about this, or share your thoughts further?
Thanks

Correction: I found this discussion

Trigger tech issue

Looking for some help. Just put a trigger tech special in my 700 la. When I close the bolt, there's a click sort of noise. Like something isn't aligned. When I put the timney back in, it's smooth as silk. Is there something I should do or look at?

www.longrangehunting.com

 

[Mram10us]

Guys, it's the trigger, it's thee part that's between go and no go, you screw one up bad enough to feel it's wrong your way of the reservation and well beyond safe. Changing springs is just stupid, if the design fails with the original why would you feel confident in lighter ones, I'm trying not to offend anyone but I've seen the results more than once of people screwing with triggers and it's absolutely the stupidest thing you can do, it's why I won't install Trigger Techs into Rems, they fail from time to time, that's just a straight up no go!!

It isnt stupid to change springs if you know what you are doing. May not be your choice, but far from stupid. Thousands of rounds from my rifles and many others with triggers that have been worked. No issues and they shoot and feel great.

 

[Snowboy]

Based on the history of Remington triggers, I chose to replace mine rather than mess with the factory trigger.
Yes, much of the complaints may be hype, but who wants to chance it?

It is all about what you have confidence with.

 

[HRM Johnny]

@Mram10us Thanks very much for the video.

 

[25WSM]

I personally use mostly older remington triggers in all my hunting rifles. It's a simple trigger that works as intended. If you don't adjust it properly it can fail. But so can any trigger. I would bet 100% of all trigger failures in remington 700s were the result of people adjusting on them without enough knowledge to do so. Just someone changing the spring can cause failures. It's not just a pull weight spring, it's also the return spring. If you set the sear at minimum and don't have the return/pull weight spring tight enough you will have an unsafe trigger. This spring must push the trigger fully forward till it hard stops and has zero slack. I will keep using them because I've had zero issues with them in over 30 yrs of smithing. I don't like the newer triggers as much as the old ones but they still will adjust to a decent trigger just takes more work. One more thing on lighter weight triggers. Keep them clean. Very clean. All I use on them is zippo lighter fluid. I've gotten in triggers that didn't work at all when it got cold out because of congealed oil. Zippo works great on firing pin parts also.
Shep

 

[Jeffrthehunter]

I personally use mostly older remington triggers in all my hunting rifles. It's a simple trigger that works as intended. If you don't adjust it properly it can fail. But so can any trigger. I would bet 100% of all trigger failures in remington 700s were the result of people adjusting on them without enough knowledge to do so. Just someone changing the spring can cause failures. It's not just a pull weight spring, it's also the return spring. If you set the sear at minimum and don't have the return/pull weight spring tight enough you will have an unsafe trigger. This spring must push the trigger fully forward till it hard stops and has zero slack. I will keep using them because I've had zero issues with them in over 30 yrs of smithing. I don't like the newer triggers as much as the old ones but they still will adjust to a decent trigger just takes more work. One more thing on lighter weight triggers. Keep them clean. Very clean. All I use on them is zippo lighter fluid. I've gotten in triggers that didn't work at all when it got cold out because of congealed oil. Zippo works great on firing pin parts also.
Shep

25WSM,
How far from release do you adjust the sear, I have been told 1/2 turn?
Jeff

 

[25WSM]

If you do 1/2 a turn you will have a very safe engagement but you will also have creep. If you polish the sear surfaces real nice the creep will feel almost imperceptible. But I adjust mine 1/4 turn or less. But I also change one angle and have sharp 90° at both ends. If you round off any end of the engagement surfaces you will need more engagement to be safe. Once your done with adjustment take your action and cock it really hard a few times and make sure it is engaging. Once you pass that test cock it and hit the side of the action sharply with a plastic mallet or wooden handle. It should not fire. Pass this test then put it on safe and pull the trigger a few time and take it off safe. It should not fire. If you fail any of the 3 test readjust. Repeat test. If you are not 100% positive it's right take it to a good smith. Safety is always number 1 rule of owning firearms. My lawyer said I have to tell you to make sure rifle is not loaded during these test.
Shep

 

[Jeffrthehunter]

If you do 1/2 a turn you will have a very safe engagement but you will also have creep. If you polish the sear surfaces real nice the creep will feel almost imperceptible. But I adjust mine 1/4 turn or less. But I also change one angle and have sharp 90° at both ends. If you round off any end of the engagement surfaces you will need more engagement to be safe. Once your done with adjustment take your action and cock it really hard a few times and make sure it is engaging. Once you pass that test cock it and hit the side of the action sharply with a plastic mallet or wooden handle. It should not fire. Pass this test then put it on safe and pull the trigger a few time and take it off safe. It should not fire. If you fail any of the 3 test readjust. Repeat test. If you are not 100% positive it's right take it to a good smith. Safety is always number 1 rule of owning firearms. My lawyer said I have to tell you to make sure rifle is not loaded during these test.
Shep

Awesome info thank you! I have adjusted and installed several triggers (a dozen or more) and have never had a problem, hope that never changes. I think even more important is to never chamber a round until your muzzle is pointed at target, I even try to follow this rule while hunting. It is amazing to me how many hunters want to roam the woods with one in the chamber, even when hunting deer in sage brush country????

 

[Ranger Rick]

What specific history are you referring to? Have you seen this?

Mram,
Thank you for raising the "proper perspective" about Remington and its triggers. The video confirms that CNBC displayed the freedom of the press that allows for false and biased reporting with its influential propaganda that is so common in the media. The bias against President Trump and the selective reporting on Covid, AntiFa, and BLM in a a favorable light verifys that this is the age of lying. The video concludes (and I heartily agree as the owner of three Remington 700's since 1976) that the "only accidental discharge is the reporting of MSNBC." The current lack of accountability and biased reporting is a sickening reality in our fallen world. Thanks again Mram!

 

[LoneTraveler]

Wood Craft sells a set of 8000 grit water stones that have flat, 90 degree, 45 degree and knife edges. They will smooth flat sharp angles that do great smoothing and polish with no rolling of the angle edge. If set up with a jig.

I worked on a Remington Sendero once, The rifle with scope could be picked up by the trigger and the sear would not disengage. Added a 1lb. bag of beans still no disengagement, 2nd 1lb. bag of beans tied to forearm sling stud and the sear disengaged. ( Near 12 lb.) The sear surface looked like a miniature pipe wrench jaw. Took some careful stoning to get a crisp 3lb. hunting trigger.

If the contact surfaces are not smooth. Lube or a spring change will not help rough trigger sears.
A rough trigger sear will give you different trigger pulls on a scale, From pull to pull also.

The only Remington Trigger I ever seen just up and fail by design was 1. The piece, What is called the Connector in post #7 picture broke right through the hole it has in its face. The firing pin would just slide down as the bolt was closed.