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Remington 788 Build

Hello all! Since we're on the subject of 788's...has anyone found a decent trigger guard to fit a 788? It could be either a magazine guard or a bdl style. Most 788's I have experience with are real shooters,just dont like the trigger guard/magazine set up.
 
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It was a balmy 36 degrees, overcast skies, with a bit of humidity in Wyoming yesterday. So since it has rained for the last 4 days and I couldn't mow my yard I took the new rifle to the range.

I loaded up a few 87 grain Hornaday V-Max bullets over 34.1 grains of IMR 4064, with Federal 210 GM, Norma brass, set to 2.6" overall length.

I got the rifle on paper at 100 yards then proceeded to shoot a couple of groups. Boy does this rifle shoot for 3 rounds. First set of 3 fell into a nice little .5 moa group. This really made me happy so I loaded up three more rounds in the mag and started shooting another one. Well this group was also a .5 moa group but exactly 1.25 moa lower. So I went for a walk out to the 100 yd target and let the barrel cool down which didn't really take to long since it was so nice out. I got back to the gun and proceeded the do the exact same thing again. A nice little group and then another nice little group 1.25 moa lower.

So logically my next step is should be floating the barrel to relieve any pressure points and try this all over again and maybe bedding the rifle, but I have never had a barrel shoot lower after warming up, usually it shoots higher and/or walks away in a angle from the original grouping.

Basically I have a 3 shot rifle unless you remember to compensate after the first 3 shot string. So what do you guys think.
 
As noted in my first post the last 1" of the barrel is pretty trashed. Would this cause the drastic p.o.i. shift that I noticed or is it caused by something else or a combination of things.

I don't want to spend a bunch of time chasing this rabbit around in circles as I could spend that time breaking in a new barrel that has been properly floated and action bedded, that I know will be around for awhile.
 
It was a balmy 36 degrees, overcast skies, with a bit of humidity in Wyoming yesterday. So since it has rained for the last 4 days and I couldn't mow my yard I took the new rifle to the range.

I loaded up a few 87 grain Hornaday V-Max bullets over 34.1 grains of IMR 4064, with Federal 210 GM, Norma brass, set to 2.6" overall length.

I got the rifle on paper at 100 yards then proceeded to shoot a couple of groups. Boy does this rifle shoot for 3 rounds. First set of 3 fell into a nice little .5 moa group. This really made me happy so I loaded up three more rounds in the mag and started shooting another one. Well this group was also a .5 moa group but exactly 1.25 moa lower. So I went for a walk out to the 100 yd target and let the barrel cool down which didn't really take to long since it was so nice out. I got back to the gun and proceeded the do the exact same thing again. A nice little group and then another nice little group 1.25 moa lower.

So logically my next step is should be floating the barrel to relieve any pressure points and try this all over again and maybe bedding the rifle, but I have never had a barrel shoot lower after warming up, usually it shoots higher and/or walks away in a angle from the original grouping.

Basically I have a 3 shot rifle unless you remember to compensate after the first 3 shot string. So what do you guys think.

Are you saying you loaded them at 2.6" from base of the case to the tip of the bullet , or base to ogive? I'm not familiar with the 788's magazine confinements , but that sounds like a ogive measurement. I think most pass on building on a 788 because of the weak bolt. When it breaks your done.
 
If the barrel wont shoot to the level you want you could certainly get hunting accuracy with a shaw or eabco barrel for a small investment compared to premium cut rifled barrels

I have to disagree with this assessment simply from the standpoint that the Rem. 788 action warrants putting your best foot forward with a new, quality barrel instead of some low level economy barrels. It's better to use a quality barrel to create a fine rifle for your children to learn with and hold onto while not handicapping them with a less than satisfactory piece of steel. Make the project the best you can not the least.
 
.......I have to disagree with this assessment simply from the standpoint that the Rem. 788 action warrants putting your best foot forward with a new, quality barrel instead of some low level economy barrels. It's better to use a quality barrel to create a fine rifle for your children to learn with and hold onto while not handicapping them with a less than satisfactory piece of steel. Make the project the best you can not the least.........

Do it right you won't regret it.
 
The measurement given was cartridge overall length (tip to base). I just loaded these up matching the specs in the Hornady manual to see how the rifle shot.

The 788 may have been a cheaper rifle when they were in production but were not built cheaply like the low end crap of today. I have had many offers for my other 788 that would pay for a new short action BDL if I took them. That gun is all original and chambered in .222 rem and shoots bug holes all day long.

When I do have this 243 re-barreled it will be with a top end barrel. I just haven't decided if it is going to be steel or carbon.
 
Really wanting to see this thread continue! Is there merit to the whole rear lug/ bolt thrust/ weak bolt— yadda yadda claim against the 788, or is that just a bunch of mumbo jumbo? My mind says, there's a bunch of em out there with a great accuracy reputation.
 
The only thing I've ever been told is to stay away from cartridges that have very high working pressure, if you are thinking about changing the chambering of the rifle. Someone can pipe in, if this information is not inline with what they have experienced.

Everyone of the 788 rifles that I have been around, both original and re-barreled are excellent shooters.
 
as far as the rifle walking each shot group--
did you check the action screws to make sure they we torqued correctly? did you try other torque settings to see if/how it affected your shot strings?
also check your optics base screws and ring screws to eliminate the easy things before you jump to extremes

other cheep thing to try is to load the barrel up some more, take a few playing cards with you-- 1 at a time slip them between the barrel and stock to create more upward pressure on the barrel and shoot another group-- some barrels respond positively to this "pressure point" most don't--but its a cheep thing to check before trying other things --I always do this before free floating just to make sure it won't help before filing on the stock to free float
 
There are some simple guidelines such as re-barreling with the cartridges which are marketed in these rifles or trying to stay in the moderate pressure zones instead of aiming for the top end. Mine were in the .222 Remington and .308 Win. for the most part so there was a decent selection of cartridges for either. I stuck with the .222 Rem. as per the original but the .308 Win. I necked up some .358 Win. brass I had to .366 and made simple 9.3 x 51 cartridge for hogs and such.
 
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