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Remington 700 bolt variations.

As rickiesrevenge said in earlier post the Blackout needs a FB bolt the positioning is different from your basic 223 boltface.
The 223 is clocked at 12:30 and the FB is at 2:30. The 700AAC 300BO actions have the FB bolt.
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So which of these is the FB bolt?
 
I've never messed with one in either caliber before, but by the picture the ejector appears to be at the same location. Why not buy a new ejector pin and turn the first 1/16" to the smaller diameter?
I'm sure there's something simple to fix it.
 
Recently purchased a ruger American in 300blk and I am not pleased at all with the fit/finish of the bolt. So I'm probably just going to dump it before it ever sees its first round of ammunition. I just wanted something lite and handy to shoot subs in the dark that I wouldn't worry about beating up but I don't think I can tolerate this thing.

Anyway, I've got a spare 223 bolt for a 700, and a 700 that I play musical barrels with already, so I'm thinking about just spinning up a barrel for the rifle I have.

Problem is, I've done this before, way back when the 300blk first came out, and I never could get it to extract right. It would always lose the case halfway out and you either had to fish it out by hand or dump it out. I got tired of it and had the guy that built it rechamber it in 308 win.

Reading on another forum, someone had posted, in order for a 700 in 300blk to function, it needed a 300blk specific bolt, or a bolt that was used in the fireball chambered rifles in order to function. Allegedly, the blackout/fireball bolts had the extractor clocked in a different location. Is there any truth to this ? I can't find any info on it anywhere.
I had a 300 whisper built off a 700 years ago had absolutely no extraction problems functioned just like the 223 did. David
 
The ejector has nothing to do with the difference between the standard 223 or FB bolt its the location of the extractor.
Its the timing between the 2, the 223 lets go of the FB case before the plunger ejects the case so it just wants to drop.
 
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The ejector has nothing to do with the difference between the standard 223 or FB bolt its the location of the extractor.
So you put a sako in. then your issue is it tosses the case up at your scope where it will likely fall back into the feed. Seems that the issue is more of the length of time the case is being held before ejection in the OP. I'm not saying there isn't a problem with some rifles and I'm not saying theres only one way to fix it. But there have been plenty of them sold that don't have that problem and use the same parts. Somethings wonky with their setups that can be corrected. Just my opinion though.
 
Plenty of what sold? Its why remington designed the FB bolts for the FB cases.
I've got 20VT on a 223 bolt and sometimes if you run the bolt absolutely perfect it will eject the case but thats the only way.
 
Plenty of what sold? Its why remington designed the FB bolts for the FB cases.
I've got 20VT on a 223 bolt and sometimes if you run the bolt absolutely perfect it will eject the case but thats the only way.
Plenty of 300BO 700s and Model 7s. Doesn't seem to be an issue that was big enough to call for a recall
 
Plenty of 300BO 700s and Model 7s. Doesn't seem to be an issue that was big enough to call for a recall
I see Wolfe sells extra power ejector springs. Not sure this would help. But it is something cheap to try. And as the post stated
"He can extend the protrusion of the ejector by about 1/16" to make it hold on to the case longer.
Just need to remove a little metal from the notch in the ejector plunger so it will stick out further before it rests on the roll pin which retains it into the bolt."
If it were me I would also buy a extractor while you're on there. Just to have further on down the road if not needed now.



 
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