Remage Question

Tiny Tim

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Considering a short action remage and I have a question concerning threads. I'm looking at a relatively lightweight 6.5 Creedmoor for a woods carry rifle. If a receiver is trued and the threads cleaned up to line up with the squared action, will the threads be to loose on the Remage barrel? Is one better off not touching the threads? One thing I'm also considering is the ability to also utilize a shouldered barrel for another caliber. I have the tooling necessary to change barrels but not to do the machining. Want to keep options open and gunsmithing costs to a minimum (no offense). I also am considering having a "shot out" barrel converted to a Remage for this rifle just for fire forming AI brass for another rifle. This way both chambers could be cut with the same reamer. Again, my question largely revolves around the receiver and barrel threading. If I'm way off in my thinking, I'm open to suggestions. Thanks for any help.
 
Cabelas has savage 12 FV 6.5cm on sale right now for less than your 700 action is worth...sell and get one, I have 3 savages and cant believe how well they shoot. If you just like the idea of the remington, blueprint it and have the gunsmith chamber it for you. I've considered the remage before, but I dont see any benefit when you can get a factory savage that shoots just fine for the cost of one remage barrel(if you catch the savage on sale)
 
I have a Remage 28 Nosler. It shoots lights out! It's on a 1962 action so I wasn't too concerned of the action. Could it have been better blue printed, maybe. It is my understanding blue printing to include the threads, clean up the threads by .010" or more. Some Remage barrel makers have this as an option. It's a handy option for us Remington fans with small budgets and like to tinker on their own stuff. To keep your gunsmithing fees low, I'd just put a barrel on it. Just my opinion, but I wouldn't do an AI with a small budget. Everything is just more expensive, dies, shooting twice, the time in fire forming, barrel life. Good luck.
 
I have a Remage 28 Nosler. It shoots lights out! It's on a 1962 action so I wasn't too concerned of the action. Could it have been better blue printed, maybe. It is my understanding blue printing to include the threads, clean up the threads by .010" or more. Some Remage barrel makers have this as an option. It's a handy option for us Remington fans with small budgets and like to tinker on their own stuff. To keep your gunsmithing fees low, I'd just put a barrel on it. Just my opinion, but I wouldn't do an AI with a small budget. Everything is just more expensive, dies, shooting twice, the time in fire forming, barrel life. Good luck.
I believe he was talking about 2 switch barrels, a 6.5 creed for hunting and another less expensive barrel in an A.I. caliber to match an another A.I. he to use as a fireform barrel, both of the A.I.s would be chambered with the same reamer.
 
I believe he was talking about 2 switch barrels, a 6.5 creed for hunting and another less expensive barrel in an A.I. caliber to match an another A.I. he to use as a fireform barrel, both of the A.I.s would be chambered with the same reamer.

That is correct. The AI will be a semi-custom. I was considering having the barrel removed from that rifle converted to a Remage with the same custom reamer so as to not burn up precious barrel life on the semi-custom.
 
I've just realised what this remage thing is, well yesterday anyway, and I'm intrigued. Can the factory Remington barrel still be used? Have to turn it down to same diameter of the threads? Savage is ok but the barrel lengths are mostly not what I'm looking for (22" in a lot of chambering that most others offer 24") or they jump to 26". And they seem to be heavier than others too. At least the last one I had was, 300wsm 14 classic or something like that.
 
If a receiver is trued and the threads cleaned up to line up with the squared action, will the threads be to loose on the Remage barrel? Is one better off not touching the threads?

Depends, right?
If the threads only need two thou to clean up concentric, that little extra play is inconsequential. Receiver/barrel mating threads do not need to be class 3 fit tolerance. Threads bring the parts together- it's the shoulders that align the parts and it's critical the the shoulders be perfect- not the threads. Replace barrel "shoulder" with trued "nut" for a prefit. Most smiths will just cut ten thou over which covers worst case scenarios, and there are prefits available at ten thou over to fit. "Sort of" standardization... If receiver is cut ten over, factory thread pitch barrels will have too much play to be used.

You said hunting rifle...so in this application, fuhgeddaboutit. What little bit is gained from truing receiver threads isn't going to justify the cost, nor improve accuracy enough to be justified. True the receiver face, lap in the lugs (if the lugs are waaay off, I would square the receiver abutments and skim cut the back of the lugs). Spending coin on the barrel itself is where you want to go... You'll get far more return at the target spending $$ on the barrel itself rather than trying to tweak the action.

Not clear on the other question about shouldered barrels, but shouldered barrels are no more difficult to switchbarrel than a nutted one, but your vise does need to be able to secure the barrel with the the additional torque needed.
Just torque to line up the witness marks, headspace will be 100% repeatable.
 
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If you are using one barrel to fire form for another barrel be very careful. I have multiple times had fired brass from chambers from top name PRS gunsmiths not fit chambers by another smith. I have even had brass from one barrel not fit another from the same smith, if they weren't chambered at the same time. They all can run virgin brass, but whether things were a bit off on an adjustment, or it was a new reamer, I always have a few hundred virgin cases on hand when I get close to switching to a new barrel just in case. Also, you can look at hydroforming if you don't want to waste the barrel life fire forming.
 
Another thing to consider when making a remage from a shouldered barrel is that in addition to the shoulder diameter needing to be brought down to 1.065 threads need to be continued far enough forward to accept the barrel nut. The threads would need to be chased from the original threads to match.
Shep
 
Honestly, I can see how blue printing the action makes everything 100%, but I dont think its neccessary in most occasions. I have built 3 with standard factory actions and all three shot amazing. Save your money and stick a barrel on it.
 
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