Rem 700 bolt face damaged?

Snowbird

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Salt Lake City, Ut
Has anyone seen this? Looks like a poor job finishing the extractor rivet but the large bump on the bolt face seems like more than that. Is this safe?
 

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I've got one that looks just like that. I don't think it's a safety issue.

Is it an accuracy issue? I always thought a bolt face was supposed to be nice and flat. This is a first for me.

I picked this up last night and did not look it over close enough. It's a 300 rum adl w/ a HP precision stock. I was told the trigger was custom and cost $ 250 I assumed it was a jewel. Turns out it's a factory pre recall xmark pro that breaks between 4.5 and 2.5 depending on what it wants to do at that moment. I may chalk this up to a learning experience and go back to my tikkas and savages.
 
Looks like somebody pounded the hell out of the bolt head. Can't assess the damage with any degree of accuracy from the pics but it doesn't look good at all.
I'd suggest you compare costs between having it repaired or replacing it with a Rem 700 bolt from PTG.
You may find a gunsmith who can fix that bump but, until it's fixed or replaced, don't close that bolt on your chamber.
 
Contrary to current internet belief, bolt heads are NOT "harder than the hubs". The extractor installation wasn't 'slick', but that mess can be cleaned-up with a mill bastard file and a bit of wet & dry paper. No need to go back to your Savages, just beware of any used rifle of any manufacture. Lots of 'wanna-be' , unscrupulous types about. Know what you are buying. I can tell, without removing the barreled action from the stock, whether the trigger is an aftermarket or not. Examine the details of the rifle (any firearm) closely to avoid being taken advantage of. Don't blame the rifle manufacture for the deeds of an unscrupulous seller, blame the seller for misrepresenting the item.
 
The one I had was sticking out the front enough to be rubbing on the counterbore in the barrel. I used a file to give it some clearance.

I think the bolt face and recoil lugs are the important parts of the bolt. This is what interfaces with the base of the case and the action. On my bolt, the lugs have an even wear pattern. I don't have any reason to believe the bolt face is off.

I'm thinking this much deformation is from some big press that Remington uses.
 
The one I had was sticking out the front enough to be rubbing on the counterbore in the barrel. I used a file to give it some clearance.

I think the bolt face and recoil lugs are the important parts of the bolt. This is what interfaces with the base of the case and the action. On my bolt, the lugs have an even wear pattern. I don't have any reason to believe the bolt face is off.

I'm thinking this much deformation is from some big press that Remington uses.
No, the deformation is from some wanna-be gunsmith that replaced the rivited-in extractor. Magnum bolts still use the rivited extractors. Replacement of extractors in th UMs is pretty common. The 'nose' of the bolt should not touch the barrel in any way. The bolt "face" is the area where the firing pin hole is at. That area that's beat-up is the first "ring of steel" in Reminton 700s "three rings of steel". The 'second ring' is the counter bore in the barrel, and the 'third ring' is the front receiver 'ring'.
 
I haven't seen factory installed that look that bad, but I may not see as many 'fresh, out of the box' factory rifles either. What I do see is a rapidly rising trend to "do it yourself", and there's nothing wrong with that until it becomes a hack job instead of a good repair.
 
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