Reloading for 30-30 Win - need advice

[Mrkdiver]

I'm about to load for 30-30 Win for the first time. All of my previous (30+ years) has been on the 25-06/270/30-06 platform - where I got very good at reading pressure signs (ejector marks, primer flattening /cratering, etc.). However all of these are 60kpsi plus cartridges.

When is comes to 30-30 Win out of a lever gun, what should I expect to see? I'm using the exact same LRP primers, so I'm not sure how a load that is hot for the 30-30 (I.e. > 42kpsi) is going to show pressures on the primers when these would be an extremely light load in the above mentioned cases.

Any advice welcome.

I'll be using H4895 and 150 and 160 gr bullets.

I've loaded for 30/30 for 20 or so years. I will go to max in reloading book, Hornady, Speer whatever but not max for flattened primes, extraction ect. Also, in my W94 Varget seemed to have less pressure slightly better velocity and lower pressure, with 150's anyway.

 

[freddiej]

Well, I might as well pile on with my long history of 30-30 reloading. My first hunting rifle was my father's 1950's 1894. I reloaded for it and unlike my father I did not feel the need to max out the cartridge. I always used IMR 3031, 110 grain Sierra varminter 30 cal, 150 grain win silver tips when available, and I used to make some special loads with 150 grain SPBT Hornady SST's. I used to carry only 3 in the gun when I had SPBT in it. chambered was an SST, and first loaded into the magazine were both SPBT the second out of the gun was a silver tip. this is typical of my loads.
back to reloading. I would use a box of 1.5 grains below max written loads. this got me factory reproduction speed without the recoil and faster follow up shots.
30,000 PSI is the demarcation for holding the brass to the wall of the chamber and stretching brass. I tried to sta below that mark. primers backed out but I did not care. if I did shoot one of my dad's loads, the brass came out wierd looking, the brass expanded to the chamber and made the brass look funny coming out of the chamber. when I discussed this with my dad he and I agreed, his older loads needed to be disassembled and reloaded to better speed, pressure, and stop the over stretching of his brass.
with the advent of Hodgdon's "leverlution" powder and projectiles, I think I would have to reformulate my own loads if I had not put up my 30-30 for my 270 Winchester and 270 WSM. my 30-30 is now a fun gun and I hardly ever take it out hunting.

 

[nicholasjohn]

there is a bit too much space between the bolt face and case. The rifle was like that new from Winchester. I've seen several like that. When the case grips the chamber on expansion the primer backs out to the bolt face. I never measured it but it was a good bit. Perhaps lever guns had some extra in them since they don't have the camping force of a bolt gun.

If you measure the thickness of the rims on brass from different manufacturers, they aren't all the same thickness. Some are going to be thicker ( or thinner ) than others. With the thinner ones, there will be some slop between the bolt face and the case head. If you want to fix this, neck those cases up to a larger diameter ( try an 8mm mandrel ) and then neck them back down to hold the 30-caliber bullet, leaving a secondary shoulder for headspacing purposes. after fire-forming, the cases will fit the chamber like a glove, and the primers will not back out on subsequent firings. This process is a major pain in the keester, but it will fix this issue - if you feel a need to fix it. I wouldn't bother, since it's probably not an unsafe condition. Unless you're getting case head separations, it probably isn't a problem - just one of the quirks of your particular rifle.

 

[mnshortdraw]

Just one of my findings loading 30-30 for accuracy, most commercial brass is terribly inconsistent. If you're pushing velocity or accuracy, find some Starline brass. It's the most consistent I've found for volume and neck thickness.

 

[MagnumManiac]

Just looked at my factory ammo in 30-30 and 44-40. All of it has to be at least 30 years old, and the 44-40 stuff would be even older, it is a Winchester White box with Yellow lettering and a 200gr lead bullet.
Actually, my 44-40 has never seen a jacketed bullet.

Cheers.

 

[Barkbuster20]

If your wanting max loads in a lever action 30-30 your already on the wrong path - honestly there is little reason to load for 30-30 as cheap as factory ammo is.

Staying below maximum book loads is a good idea.

 

[ntsqd]

I've loaded for a .30-30 Contender in the past (sized to be slightly hard to close) , but am about to be faced with a .30-30AI in a 24" barreled M64, which is a whole different ball of wax. I have 100 unfired cases set aside for this rifle. Reading this thread has been a good tune-up, thank y'all.

 

[Stammster]

If your wanting max loads in a lever action 30-30 your already on the wrong path - honestly there is little reason to load for 30-30 as cheap as factory ammo is.

Staying below maximum book loads is a good idea.

You mean the $2 per round "cheap" found on GB. Unfortunately the days of popping into Walmart for a $14 box of 30-30 no longer exists. Reloading for my son's 30-30 is my option now. A few of you on this sight set me up with brass, bullets, and dies.

Base on factory ammo specs, most 30-30 seems to be around 2350-2400 fps for 150 gr in 24". H4895 is the only suitable powder I have. I'll keep my eye out for LeveRevelution or 3031. Seems like the only way to get above 2200 fps with my 20" bbl is to load to near max per QL or extrapolated from the reloading manuals (vs longer bbl).

Again back to my original question - how does pressure show up on a 30-30? Seems like difficulty ejecting shells is the best sign, since even hot loads likely won't result in any conventional telltale signs on the primers or case heads.

I do not plan to exceed book max or 42kpsi QL estimates. But I've got a new lot of H4895 (plus I've never used it in 30-30), and have no idea if it's burn rate is correct. Maybe I'm a little shy, because I just got done loading for 30-06 where my lot of H4350 was very hot - and I hit pressure 1.5 gr before book max and QL. If I stay 1.5-2 gr below for this 30-30, it will be a sub 2100 fps round.

 

[Barkbuster20]

Actually I just left walmart where they had about 25 boxes of 170 gr winchester powerpoints for 17$ - your going to have to shoot a lot of 30-30 to make that cheaper unless your casting your own bullets. - you will never come close to running into pressure signs if you stay with published loads -

 

[Barkbuster20]

My 30-30 is a 16 1/2 inch barrel trapper so almost everything is sub 2100 fps out of it - it has always put the deer down just fine - no need to get hung up on velocity in regards to a 30-30 the bullets are designed to open up at low velocity

 

[Barkbuster20]

Anyway h4895 starting load is 29 gr max 33 - I would probably just keep it simple and start at 30 grains and if it was accurate stay there - should have long brass life and if your trying to save money that with the 1-3 gr per cartridge savings should add up lol with a 24 inch barrel you will likely hit 2000 fps

 

[LanceK]

The most important thing to do when loading for a 30-30 is to make sure you knife is sharp! The 30-30 is kind of funny, it doesn't get much appreciation, but year after year it just keeps on getting the job done. I just bought a marlin 30-30, loaded up 150gr hornadys from the min charge to the max charge and will do a ocw test on my next range trip. Whichever load shoots the best is what I will use. I figure I'm good to 200yds on the tiny deer we have here.

 

[Seabeeken]

knowing what I know now, I would have just bumped the shoulder back .002" and went with it. Haven't seen a 30-30 in years. Don't think I even know anyone with one anymore. Enjoyed the topic though. Seems everything is about creedmoor these days

 

[GatorTrapper]

Time to learn about cast bullets. A new world awaits you. A 30-30 with the right cast bullets will kill as well as any jacketed one.

Also cheaper and easier on the old soft steel barrels.