Release agent for glass bedding??

[skinny pedal]

hornady one shot works very well for me.

 

[Brad Pierce]

First bedding job I did, I used kiwi first. then I saw where some were using Pam, so I sprayed it on top of the kiwi. I thought it would work well together. Don't do it. Though it released easily, my bedding came out with depressions like little drops of Pam were caught in the wax and it was not able to flow out. Quick skim job fixed it up but lesson learned

 

[ntsqd]

johnsons paste wax. it's $7 for a tub that wouldnt go through in 10 lifetimes. i've used it for all sorts of stuff. apply it with a brush and then clean it off with brake cleaner. it's so cheap that there's no reason not to liberally apply it.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Johnson-Johnson-16-oz-Floor-Polish/3384826

I *just* used this with Devcon Aluminum Putty for the bedding and J-B Quick for the pillars. I wiped it on with one of these rags: https://www.lowes.com/pd/SELLARS-200-Pack-Paper-Towels/999982036 , let it dry, and buffed it with another one of those rags. Sounds like a lot more work than it actually was.
Used 'Silly Putty' to fill the voids in the action as when I tried to use a build-up of carnuba wax I had it squeeze out and nearly lock a Glenfield 25 action into the stock. I wanted modeling clay, but was having trouble sourcing it locally. Wax over the Silly Putty seemed to work fine.
Brake cleaner to clean it off the metal. It adhered to the metal well enough it had me wondering about using it instead of oil on blued steel.

 

[DSheetz]

If you don't enjoy doing the prep then have it done for you . As we are doing it for the enjoyment we gain from the time we spend doing it even the pros. need to get satisfaction and pleasure from their jobs or they need to find something else to do as they will not do the best they can . Life is short and precious try your best to enjoy every thing you are doing and who you are doing it with .

 

[javman]

I've used Hornady One Shot, stainless steel aerosol polish and others that worked really well.

 

[Andrew Cowling]

Good day Lady's and Gentleman.

I have a question on release agents for glass bedding. I am looking for ideas since I do not care for the products I have used in the past. They worked but seem to be a pain to apply but did not release as good as I thought they should.. Lets get a discussion going on what you like and what you do not like. What have you all found that works the best? I know some of this stuff is based on personal experience based on how the product was used.

I have in the past used is the blue gel from Brownells that comes with there kit and kiwi neutral boot polish.

The blue gel that comes in the kit for me has worked better then kiwi boot polish. The thing I do not like about the blue gel is it takes time to coat it evenly and is hard for me to coat evenly. (there might be a trick I am missing) also it never seems to dry even after letting it sit for hours and when I go to put the second coat on it the first coat peals. I put it on as thin as I can.

The kiwi boot polish was a lot easier to apply BUT for me it did not release near as good as the blue gel that came in the kit. I even used it bedding scope bases and had trouble getting it to release of the action. again maybe its me.. LOL

Maybe you all have some pointers? But I would rather stay away from the two products mentioned above. I also cant help but feel theirs better ways to do it. With that said. The kiwi boot polish was very nice to work with. as in put on and clean up after the job was done. I just did not like the way it released.

Products I am looking at trying are. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...aerosol-sku081028000-1045-3808.aspx?rrec=true

And also maybe a mold release like this stuff. There are different options on this page.https://www.grainger.com/category/l..._-Categories_Based_on_Your_Search-_-IDPPLACAT


Thanks for all that post on this subject.

David

Rycol teflon spray. Nuff said.

 

[FlyGuy11]

All of the pros I've seen do it recommend a carnauba car wax. I tried it with my last bedding job and it turned out fantastic. The key is to wax everything that the bedding compound will touch 3 times. Everything else should be covered in blue painter's tape. It should take some force to release it because you're making a custom exact fit.

 

[longrangebob]

If you do not mind using alcohol as a wipe afterwards ... & a bit of mess from spraying ... mould release ... or for just as easy and cheap and no bad smells .. PAM cooking spray ... just have to fill any crevices first so that you have a smooth surface and the epoxy doesn't get into voids so it wants to remain attached ... but releases well and you do not have to peel like the Blue Stuff ...

 

[ntsqd]

I was taught to use electrical tape on the front and sides of the recoil lug so that the bedding did not fit tight to those faces. If they do fit tight and you need to remove the action from the stock then you wear both sides of the fit, but if you give the non load bearing sides a tiny bit of clearance then the action comes out and goes back in without wearing the bedding on the important surfaces.

It was the same guy who taught me to use carnuba wax, but frankly after using the paste wax I've previously posted about I don't think it matters that it is not 'carnuba'.

 

[Dean2]

If you do not mind using alcohol as a wipe afterwards ... & a bit of mess from spraying ... mould release ... or for just as easy and cheap and no bad smells .. PAM cooking spray ... just have to fill any crevices first so that you have a smooth surface and the epoxy doesn't get into voids so it wants to remain attached ... but releases well and you do not have to peel like the Blue Stuff ...

PAM will work but it is far from the best option. It contaminates the Devcon or other bedding material, it will leave tiny droplet like marks in the bedding and it is not easy to get a full smooth coverage. In theory, Hoppes Gun oil would work as a release agent, as would many spray on lubes but due to contamination and uneven coverage any type of oil based product should be avoided.

Like I said much earlier in this thread, Carnuba based waxes that dry hard and polish to a sheen, with two coats, are the best solution. Those of use that do many of these a month have tried pretty much all the options and everyone I know that does these professionally uses a Carnuba type of paste wax.

 

[fiftybmg]

I've used pure lanolin successfully. I have a 2 pound bucket of it that I use to make my case lube spray.

Apply evenly with your finger, make sure all the necessary bits are coated with a thin layer. It doesn't need to dry.

Plasticene [ play-doh ] to fill the holes.

Not professional, but it did the job for me, twice.

 

[freddiej]

I will make this short and sweet, I am a gunsmith, I do a lot of glass beddings. I have used over 30+ different products. the best stuff I have found is dry sillicone spray lube Found at O'Reilly's Auto Parts. followed very closely by the dry silicone lube found at NAPA Auto Parts, followed closely by PAM non-stick cooking spray. those are my top 3 release agents. later tatters

 

[ntsqd]

Got to wondering about carnuba wax. This is what wikipedia has to say about it specifically with regard to using it as a mold release:
Carnauba wax may be used as a mold release agent for manufacture of fibre-reinforced plastics. An aerosol mold release agent is formed by dissolving carnauba wax in a solvent. Unlike silicone or PTFE, carnauba is suitable for use with liquid epoxy, epoxy molding compounds (EMC), and some other plastic types and generally enhances their properties. Carnauba wax is not very soluble in chlorinated or aromatic hydrocarbons.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carnauba_wax

Then I asked "What is Johnson Paste wax?"
Deordorized Naphtha (Mineral Spirits), Carnuba Wax, Microcrystalline wax, and Paraffin.

https://www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/us/en/brands/sc-johnson/sc-johnson-paste-wax

Based on the comments made in the wiki page about the properties of pure carnuba wax (pure form is hard yellow flakes & needs to be blended with other waxes & solvents to be useful) I'm content to keep using the Johnson Paste Wax.

"PAM" is mostly canola oil. Think that I'll pass on that.
I note the specific call-out about silicone oils and PTFE not being suitable for use with epoxy molding compounds. I'll pass on those too.

 

[G. Neely]

Butcher's Bowing Alley wax replaced Johnson 's and microcrystalline wax for me, as it buffs up hard and doesn't smear around when handled. That and modeling clay to fill hole does it for me. It also works great on wooden gunstocks, horn, and knife handles.