Redding Type S Full Length Bushing Die – Can I Remove the Expander Ball?

The only issue is if your brass has neck wall thickness variations you are pushing this to the id next to the bullet. This can cause inconsistent neck tension. This is why some guys use an undersized bushing and a mandrel after. Using good brass with consistent necks or turning necks will prevent this.
 
The only issue is if your brass has neck wall thickness variations you are pushing this to the id next to the bullet. This can cause inconsistent neck tension. This is why some guys use an undersized bushing and a mandrel after. Using good brass with consistent necks or turning necks will prevent this.
Good point. I'm not sure my shooting ability would even support that step?? I've always been of the belief that the less times I can "touch" or work a case or any part thereof, the better for case life, minimizing hardening.
 
I have an issue with nech tension. I use Redding "S" FL die with expander ball removed and bushing installed. The last set of reloads, some not all, of the finished bullets I could spin the bullet in the case with my fingers. I have never had this issue before and can't figure out why the necks are not being sized consistently. I don't mean to hijack this thread but thought it fit with the subject. I can move it to a different thread if the OP prefers.
 
No worries about the thread. I'm no expert, but assuming you're using the same size neck bushing you used in the past, maybe spring back with your brass?? How many times have your cases been fired and have they been annealed?
 
No worries about the thread. I'm no expert, but assuming you're using the same size neck bushing you used in the past, maybe spring back with your brass?? How many times have your cases been fired and have they been annealed?
Everything is the same. The brass does have probably 6 to 8 resizes on them. I have never annealed them. I was wondering about end of life for the brass but wanted opinions before I scrapped that batch and started with new and have the same problem. Thanks for the reply
 
If I get a dented case mouth or anything that looks off with the mouth, I'll run only the expander ball through it without touching the body and then remove the expander ball and FL size without it.
IMO get a mandrel die from Sinclairs and a one of their turning mandrels. They're slightly undersize compared to an expanding mandrel and will push case neck dings/dents outwards before you size. Seems like a lot of work to constatly add and remove the ball expander when there's a tool purpose built for it.
 
Everything is the same. The brass does have probably 6 to 8 resizes on them. I have never annealed them. I was wondering about end of life for the brass but wanted opinions before I scrapped that batch and started with new and have the same problem. Thanks for the reply
I would try to find someone nearby who could anneal a few for you. Then size them as you are and see if that makes a difference. You never mentioned caliber... but depending how hot your loads are 6-7x fired might be end of life or close. I usually only get 6 to 8 on my 300rum and 338 mag loads before primer pockets get too loose.
 
I would try to find someone nearby who could anneal a few for you. Then size them as you are and see if that makes a difference. You never mentioned caliber... but depending how hot your loads are 6-7x fired might be end of life or close. I usually only get 6 to 8 on my 300rum and 338 mag loads before primer pockets get too loose.
Thanks, I'll try that.
300 win mag and Norma brass. The loads are not hot rods and the primer pockets are still nice and tight. I appreciate the help
 

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