• If you are being asked to change your password, and unsure how to do it, follow these instructions. Click here

Recommended factory action

Looking for suggestions of a factory action to use in a rifle build for hunting and some summer target shooting ! This would be a long action possibly magnum caliber. I tend to favor old school recoil lugs. Looking at something like savage, vanguard, bergara, Remington, mark v etc. Have an accumark I could make use of. Thanks to you all for any and all your help. Tribb
What are your goals for this rifle? Do you want something that shoots .01" groups? Do you want something that is hunting accurate and functions and is a combination of the parts you like? Are you just wanting your first "custom" rifle? Or are you wanting to show pictures on the internet and look cool because of how much money you poured into your set up? Whatever you decide is fine, but This needs to be decided before you start spending money. Custom rifles is a rabbit hole with more and more options every year. When I first got hooked there were three options for the hunter Remington Savage and Stiller you don't ever hear about Stiller anymore there are so many companies making custom actions.

If you are on a budget Don't listen to all the people saying just buy a custom action. People on a budget are not trying to compete in benchrest, prs, or fclass. Those games are not for budget minded people.

There are lots of factory guns from savage, Remington and tikka that will honestly shoot half MOA with factory ammo. That's the same performance guarantee you will get from custom rifle builders. There is no reason to build a custom rifle if all you want is something affordable to shoot and hunt with.

I like building customs to get the mix of parts that I like in a gun. I want a stock that fits me and my style of hunting/ shooting, I want a barrel that is optimized for the bullet that I want to shoot. Sometimes I want a wildcat cartridge because it is something cool that most people haven't heard of. I'm not building custom guns to compete at a high level in any sport, if i was I would do things differently. There are compromises that must be made in everything, weight is one of those things. The most accurate rifles are the heaviest but I don't want to lug a 22lb rifle around so I need to compromise some accuracy potential to save weight. On the flip side the lightest rifles are not the most accurate so I compromise a little more weight for a little more accuracy.

There is a moment where you reach the point of diminishing returns on your dollars. That point Depends on your goals. Do you need a $1800 Bat action to shoot deer and steel out to 1,000 yds no! The lower your budget the sooner you hit the point of diminishing returns. It costs a lot of money to go from a 1/2 MOA rifle to a 1/4 MOA rifle. But to go from a 1.5 moa to a 1 MOA is very affordable and to go from a 1 MOA to a 3/4 MOA isn't bad either once start getting below a desired 1/2 moa it will cost you!

If your goal is 1/2 moa pick the cartridge you want to shoot and the bullet you think best fits your application. Then get a factory action from Savage, Remington or Tikka. Savage being the cheapest Tikka the most expensive. The cartridge will determine what action is best because Tikka actions do not work well with long action cartridge like the 300 win mag. And Remington short actions do not work well with WSM or SAUM cartridges. There is no need to blueprint a factory action; the added cost surpasses the point of diminishing returns. There is not a large enough impact on the accuracy to justify the cost. If you can afford to blueprint it then you can afford to buy a custom. (Unless you find a used custom that has had the work already done or unless you already have the action) btw I advise buying everything used except the barrel. Then pick the best barrel from the best barrel maker that fits your needs (caliber, cartridge, bullet and rifle weight) If you are going full budget and decide on a barrel nut set up it negates the work done to blueprint the action anyway. If you ate having a Smith do the work he may not guarantee the accuracy without blueprinting the action.
Then pick a stock that fits you and your style of hunting/ shooting. The stock is the interface between flesh and machine and it should be a hybrid of sorts. Something that creates a seamless flow from your body to the steel of the rifle. I can't stand rifle Chassis because there just another piece of metal that is boxy and doesn't blend well from my body to the rifle. Lots of guys like them but I have tried and can't get used to them.
Sorry for rambling, good luck going down the rabbit hole!
 
This will get said hundreds of times but then in a month there will be another thread with the same subject, but will say it again, if you are considering a factory action and not wanting to invest in any smith work then maybe go with a Savage or something that takes pre-fits so at least your arent sinking a bunch of money into it -BUT- if you were at all planning to spend any money at all on gunsmith work then just save yourself the headache/time and get a custom action. I feel like people say this till they are blue in the face but then without fail every few months someone will link to a Brownells add showing dirt cheap Remington actions asking if its a good deal or not despite being proven time and again that its just throwing good money after bad. Are there shops out there that will just clean up the front ring and lap the lugs for $150? Sure, but that's not even remotely comparable to even a basic/entry level custom action. If you already have the action and it has sentimental value and/or it already has some work done to it, then by all means go ahead, but I cant even begin to comprehend going out and buying a factory action to start from scratch on; you are tripping over a dollar to try and pick up a dime here. No amount of autistic shrieking or "wElL AcTchUaLLy" will make this any less true.

There are several great options out there in the sub $1000 space that are in the same $ ballpark as a blueprinted Remington once you account for the cost of buying a donor action and are going to be way better out of the box than the Remington ever will be no matter how much machine time you throw at it. Some of these even take shouldered pre-fits so you avoid having a barrel nut and can still install your own barrels saving further time and money.

I'm sure I am forgetting others, but a good starting point would be:
- Big Horn Origin
- Kelbly Atlas
- Defiance Tenacity <- this one doesn't take pre-fits I don't think, but lots of places sell complete barreled actions

If you want something that's even better and not a lot more expensive then take a look at:
- Defiance Ruckus
- Big Horn TL3
- Impact 737r/787r

Case in point: I had a Bergara B14 re-barreled recently, smith cleaned up the receiver face and lapped the lugs only, $375 or so which included chambering the barrel (based on his price menu probably $100-150 of that went into the work on the action). The rifle shoots great, but compare it to my full custom built on a Stiller Tac-30 (action was $1050) and it isn't close either on fit/finish or accuracy. I purchased the donor rifle for $615, I had to have a bushing installed in the bolt face because I was getting excessive primer cratering (Remingtons have this problem too), so there's $150 or so, then $100-150 for the receiver work, the smith re-used the factory recoil lug so I'm at $0 there. All in I am at $800-850 for a factory action that is not fully blueprinted, factory recoil lug, and doesn't have anything else such as a scope rail, tactical bolt knob, pinned/integral recoil lug etc; things that even the most basic custom actions include. All while being within $200 of the Stiller on my full custom (which comes with a fluted bolt, tactical bolt knob, pinned recoil lug, and a 20MOA scope rail). I'd have been well over $1000 on my Bergara if I made it comparable to the Stiller. It works for the intended purpose of the rifle, but if did it all over again I should honestly have just sold the Bergara for $500 and then drop $900 on something like a Defiance Tenacity or an Origin and been time and money ahead for a higher quality finished rifle.
 
I have several old Savage 110s, all shoot just fine with a good barrel, often less than 1/2" MOA. I like being able to change the bolt face from STD to MAG in just a few minutes. I have one with a 338 EDGE Shilen 30" bull .barrel that will do less than 1/4" MOA every time. Hogue stock and Vortex scope. Lately I have been working with a couple of Ruger American actions, add a Shilen barrel I worked up (tapered, threaded, & chambered) on my ancient lathe and with a Bell & Carlson stock has become a fine hunting rifle in 358 Winchester. I like the simplicity of the Ruger American. Three bolt lugs give great support to the brass. I like the protection given the shooter from a cartridge failure: there is no path along the bolt in either the Savage or the Ruger, unlike the Remington with its "three rings of steel" but you can look along the right side of the bolt with a flashlight and you can clearly see the face of the barrel with the bolt closed: there is a clear path from the bolt face area to the shooter's right cheek. Gunsmiths make good money when blueprinting a 700 action -- may be why they are so well liked, but I am a cynic. I have a long action 700 mated to a 416/300 RUM wildcat, just for fun and a short action 700 that I put an M-16 extractor on chambered for 358 Winchester, good hunting rifle. So many guns so little time...
 
While I have had excellent restless using the Savage(later models ie 110) and pre-64 Winchester actions, the Remington 700 with truing is probably the most versatile in terms of stocks, triggers, etc, and has produced results and reliability on par with my custom actions.
 
Heads up understand why and what needs to be done when truing an action. ALL ACTIONS should be verified as results may surprise you.
 
For a long magnum I would look for a weatherby mk V or a m70, anything else tikka
 
IF, I were buying / building, a New Rifle Today, I'd buy, a Tikka T-3, in .270 WSM,.. AGAIN ! ( or, 7mm RM )
Stain Steel, 24" Barrel, (THE Perfect, size) and 7 1/2 Pounds ( scoped) just buy, a Trigger Spring, Clean & "Break in" bbl. Carefully, Lap / loctite Rings !
Then, work up some, 140 Bergers ( Classic's or, HVLD's ) into Sub 1/2 MOA loads, going 3,150 - 3,200 FPS and go,.. Kill chit !
To,.. 700 - 800 Yards IF, you can,.. "shoot" !
SOLD, my Expensive, HEAVIER,.. Weatherby actioned, Customs !
 
I think Savages are a great action from a DIY perspective. I have one built (SA, 6BR), one In Process (LA, 308 Norma Mag), and two up-coming (SA, 7-08 & .243 AI). However, most praising them would appear to have built rifles on their short actions. Savage long actions are a bit more of a PITA in finding a stock that fits and works. Due to the rear tang screw location some premier stock makers who will make a stock for pert near anything else won't make stocks for the LA's. Pillar bedding a LA is more involved than it is for an SA due to the proximity of the rear tang screw to the trigger mechanism. Can be done, but it's not trivial.
Thank you
 
IF, I were buying / building, a New Rifle Today, I'd buy, a Tikka T-3, in .270 WSM,.. AGAIN ! ( or, 7mm RM )
Stain Steel, 24" Barrel, (THE Perfect, size) and 7 1/2 Pounds ( scoped) just buy, a Trigger Spring, Clean & "Break in" bbl. Carefully, Lap / loctite Rings !
Then, work up some, 140 Bergers ( Classic's or, HVLD's ) into Sub 1/2 MOA loads, going 3,150 - 3,200 FPS and go,.. Kill chit !
To,.. 700 - 800 Yards IF, you can,.. "shoot" !
SOLD, my Expensive, HEAVIER,.. Weatherby actioned, Customs !
 
Like where you coming from buddy! I'm considering selling my two wby. Accumarks and starting over! Both have less than a box down the barrel.could you tell me about the recoil lug on the t-3 last Tikka i had stock off of it looked like a piece of key stock was floating in a groove in barrel and receiver for the lug! Is this still the same? Thanks Tribb
 
@ tribb,.. Yup, still the SAME on T-3's and T-3X's ( my son has, a T-3X, in 7mm-08 ).
I've bought 2 , "older stock" T-3 models with, Aluminum Recoil Lugs and replaced them with, New Steel ones. Yup, I'm NOT crazy about, the recoil Lugs "Design" either, BUT, they "Work", once you get used to putting/ "snapping", the Rifle back, together !
I Install the New steel lugs at same Time that, I replace / adjust, the Trigger Springs then, "check" for, forearm, Free float, "clearance" issues,.. IF, any !
I Lightly "Polish", the chambers Throat area ( as the Factory Machined edges, ARE, "sharp" ) and polish the Barrel with, JB's slathered on, a Patch over, a Bronze Brush ( 10-12 strokes ) CLEAN and "Break in" carefully, by shooting 5 then cleaning, again ( did this, a couple of Times ).
Peak Velocity was, "Hit" quickly !
Bore shines like Chrome and NO, Copper / Carbon, Residue,.. "holds" on ( cleans easily / quickly ) and Loads shoot, sub 1/2 MOA when, my old .338 Win Mag.,.. "Flinch" stays, away ! If, you like, light weight, "Mountain Rifles" that, "Shoot" good, Tikka is the way to go,.. IMHO !
I'd personally AVOID, the .300 WSM cart., UN-Less you plan on using, a Brake and Heavier Stock, as they, Kick HARD in, a 7 1/2 lb., Rifle !
.270 WSM and 7 mm Rem Mag., .30-06 or, 7mm-08 ( IF, Hand loaded w/ 160's + ! ) would be, MY Choices if,.. Elk are on, the Menu ! Good Luck !
Oh, and be SURE to put, a LimbSaver Recoil Pad on, IT !!!
 
Last edited:
If I were you I'd get something with a Remington 700 footprint. Like others have said, the custom actions these days aren't terrible. Can even get some that'll take the barrel nut/prefit barrels. This is coming from a guy that has semi-custom savages one of which I really like but there are things I just can't do with it that I'd like to do. Especially with the LA, stock options are limited. Make a build sheet and see what you can do with the different actions you listed or others have recommended.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 4 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top